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Hydrolyzed keratin is a material made mostly of partially hydrolyzed keratin, used as a hair conditioner and film former1. Depending on the size of its fragments, it penetrates the hair cortex or stays on the surface3. The CIR panel judges it safe in current uses2. "Keratin" smoothing products, on the other hand, have contained formaldehyde7, which is banned in cosmetics in the EU9.
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1, safety according to the CIR expert panel2. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Small and medium fragments penetrate deep into the cortex; the largest mostly deposit on the surface. Medium and high molecular weight peptides increase Young's modulus (fiber stiffness) and reduce breakage at 20% and 80% relative humidity. Laboratory study, co-author from a manufacturer3.
The authors report positive effects of protein-based cosmetics on hair protection and on properties such as strength, shape and volume. They highlight the potential of keratin particles4.
Treated areas show higher hydration and elasticity, a stronger skin barrier and better water retention. The combination with wool lipids gives the best results. The abstract does not give the number of participants5.
The authors note that many salon products contain formaldehyde or its derivatives, yet are marketed as safe6.
Six brands contain 0.96 to 1.4% formaldehyde, 5 times the 0.2% limit retained by the CIR. Five of them were labeled "formaldehyde free"7.
Formaldehyde content of the products: 11.5%, 8.3%, 3% and 0%. Mean air concentrations of 0.08 to 3.47 ppm during drying. Even products labeled "formaldehyde free" can produce concentrations equal to or above occupational exposure limits8.
Glyoxylic acid, absorbed through the skin and converted to oxalate, caused calcium oxalate crystal nephropathy in mice. The authors recommend stopping cosmetic products that contain it11.
For 20 episodes, the product was labeled "formaldehyde free"; for 16, its composition was unknown. Everyone recovered. The authors call for caution with smoothing products12.
The panel concludes that the 8 keratin-derived ingredients assessed are safe in the uses and concentrations described. They mostly serve as skin and hair conditioning agents2.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. The level of evidence for hydrolyzed keratin is modest: laboratory tests on fibers and one skin study, few clinical trials. The studies on smoothing products concern the safety of those products, not keratin itself. Studies affiliated with a manufacturer are flagged in the sources.
Our white label catalog includes 8 formulas with keratin: the key active in 6 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
Signature active in the masks, shampoo, serum and conditioners; also found in the styling wax, the smoothing product and the heat protectant spray.
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
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