A butter rich in stearic and oleic acids
LaboratoryStearic acid makes up 28 to 56% of the fatty acids and oleic acid 34 to 61%. West African shea is generally richer in stearic acid and triterpenes than East African shea1.
Shea butter
Shea butter is the fat extracted from the nuts of the shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa), a tree of sub-Saharan Africa. It is mostly made of stearic and oleic acids12, with an unsaponifiable fraction rich in triterpenes1. CosIng classifies it as a skin conditioning agent9. Its composition varies with origin2.
Shea butter at a glance
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database9, safety according to the CIR expert panel8. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
- INCI name
- BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER
- Other names
- Shea butterShea butter; Vitellaria paradoxa (botanical name used in the literature)
- CAS number
- 194043-92-0CosIng also lists 91080-23-89
- EC number
- 293-515-7
- Botanical origin
- Shea tree (Sapotaceae)Fat obtained from the fruit, INCI name based on Butyrospermum parkii9
- Producing countries studied
- Sub-Saharan AfricaMali, Burkina Faso, Nigeria, Uganda2; Ivory Coast, Ghana, Cameroon, Chad, Sudan1
- Main fatty acids
- Stearic and oleicStearic 28 to 56%, oleic 34 to 61% depending on origin1
- Unsaponifiable matter
- 2 to 12% of the fatOf which 22 to 72% triterpene alcohols: alpha-amyrin, beta-amyrin, lupeol, butyrospermol1
- CosIng functions
- Skin conditioning, viscosity controlling"Skin conditioning" and "viscosity controlling" in the European nomenclature9
- EU status
- No restrictionNot listed in the annexes of Regulation (EC) 1223/20099
- Allergen to declare
- No
- Safety
- Judged safe in cosmeticsCIR panel, provided it is formulated to be non-sensitizing8
What the research says
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory
Composition and materialChemistry
A composition that varies with origin
LaboratoryTriglycerides, fatty acids and triterpenes vary strongly from one batch to another. Oleic acid dominates in Ugandan provenances, stearic acid in West African ones2. Fixing an origin and a specification with the supplier is therefore useful.
Refining changes the minor compounds
LaboratoryStearic and oleic remain the two main fatty acids. Refined stearin contains fewer tocopherols, sterols and phenolic compounds than crude butter. Refined olein keeps similar levels4.
Published values vary widely
ReviewThe authors note large variations in the reported compositions and recommend more precise analyses to make the quality and shelf life of the butter more reliable3.
Skin and bodySkincare, bodycare
No effect on SPF in lipsticks
LaboratoryTitanium dioxide and the chemical filter changed the in vitro SPF; shea butter had no influence. It mainly affected the texture and melting point of the formulas5.
Few dedicated cosmetic clinical trials
ReviewShea is one of the 17 vegetable materials examined, but the clinical studies mostly cover other oils. On healthy skin, oils rich in oleic acid do not seem to have a negative effect; frequency and duration of use matter6.
Safety and expert viewsToxicology
Thirteen shea-derived ingredients judged safe
Expert assessmentUsed mainly as skin and hair conditioning agents, they are judged safe in current uses and concentrations, provided they are formulated to be non-sensitizing8.
No IgE-binding soluble protein
LaboratoryThe analysis detected no IgE-binding soluble proteins in shea butter7. This is a useful point for the safety file; INCI labeling remains mandatory.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Several of the studies cited were run or funded by industry; this is indicated in the sources.
Which products use shea butter?
Our white label catalog includes 65 formulas with shea butter: the key active in 20 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
19Face
Fat base of lip balms, also found in face creams and care.
27Body
Base of butters, balms, creams and massage oils, comfort active in dry skin care.
19Hair
Nourishing ingredient in masks, leave-ins and styling creams, notably for textured hair.
In our formulas, it is most often paired with
Vitamin E 32Argan oil 31Coconut oil 28Sweet almond oil 26Panthenol 18Shea butter, coconut oil, jojoba oil or castor oil?
Four vegetable fats often compared when choosing the base of a care product. Their chemistry differs, so their behavior in a formula does too.
| Shea butter | Coconut oil | Jojoba oil | Castor oil | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chemical nature | Butter: stearic (28 to 56%) and oleic (34 to 61%) acids1 | Oil: 92.1% saturated fatty acids, of which 47.7% lauric acid10 | Liquid wax: about 98% wax esters12 | Oil: about 90% ricinoleic acid11 |
| EU regulation | No restriction | No restriction | No restriction | No restriction |
| Carmel catalog formulas | 65 formulas | 65 formulas | 25 formulas | 25 formulas |
Frequently asked questions about shea butter
What is shea butter?
It is the fat extracted from the nuts of the shea tree, a tree of sub-Saharan Africa. It is mostly made of stearic and oleic acids1 and contains an unsaponifiable fraction rich in triterpenes. Its INCI name is BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER.
What are the benefits of shea butter in cosmetics?
Is shea butter good for hair?
It is very common in hair care, notably for textured hair, and our catalog includes shea masks and styling creams. We found no published controlled study measuring its effect alone on hair: we talk about a formulation use, not a demonstrated effect.
Pure, raw or refined shea butter?
Does shea butter protect from the sun?
Not in a measurable way in the study cited: in lipsticks, shea butter had no influence on in vitro SPF, unlike titanium dioxide and the chemical filter5. Sun protection relies on approved filters.
Is shea butter safe, and what about pregnancy?
The CIR panel judges shea-derived ingredients safe in current uses, provided they are formulated to be non-sensitizing8, and they are not restricted in the EU9. One analysis detected no IgE-binding soluble proteins7. During pregnancy, as with any skincare product, a healthcare professional's advice remains the rule.
Can you manufacture a shea butter balm or body butter for my brand?
Yes. Our ISO 22716 certified lab offers 65 shea formulas (body butters and balms, creams, hair masks, lip balms, scrubs) that you can customize, or a custom formula. Samples are free.
Further reading
- Cosmetic product specification: 5 secrets to successFixing an origin and a specification with your supplier
- Waterless Beauty 2026: premium anhydrous formulationsWaxes and vegetable butters (shea, mango, cocoa) in water-free formulas
- Natural vs synthetic cosmeticsBenefits, limits and sourcing challenges of natural ingredients
Sources
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 2, 2026.
- Akihisa T, Kojima N, Katoh N, et al. Triterpene alcohol and fatty acid composition of shea nuts from seven African countries J Oleo Sci. 2010;59(7):351-360. doi:10.5650/jos.59.351
- Di Vincenzo D, Maranz S, Serraiocco A, et al. Regional variation in shea butter lipid and triterpene composition in four African countries J Agric Food Chem. 2005;53(19):7473-7479. doi:10.1021/jf0509759
- Honfo FG, Akissoe N, Linnemann AR, et al. Nutritional composition of shea products and chemical properties of shea butter: a review Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 2014;54(5):673-686. doi:10.1080/10408398.2011.604142
- Abdel-Razek AG, Abo-Elwafa GA, Al-Amrousi EF, et al. Effect of refining and fractionation processes on minor components, fatty acids, antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of shea butter Foods. 2023;12(8):1626. doi:10.3390/foods12081626
- Sarruf FD, Cândido TM, de Oliveira CA, et al. Influence of Shea (Butyrospermum parkii) butter, TiO2 and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate on physical parameters and in vitro photoprotective efficacy J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020;19(8):2076-2085. doi:10.1111/jocd.13238
- Poljšak N, Kočevar Glavač N. Vegetable butters and oils as therapeutically and cosmetically active ingredients for dermal use: a review of clinical studies Front Pharmacol. 2022;13:868461. doi:10.3389/fphar.2022.868461
- Chawla KK, Bencharitiwong R, Ayuso R, et al. Shea butter contains no IgE-binding soluble proteins J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2011;127(3):680-682. doi:10.1016/j.jaci.2010.10.022
- Burnett CL, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics Int J Toxicol. 2024;43(1_suppl):82S-95S. doi:10.1177/10915818231224230
- European Commission. CosIng, entry BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER (CAS 194043-92-0 / 91080-23-8, CE 293-515-7). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
- Orsavova J, Misurcova L, Ambrozova JV, et al. Fatty acids composition of vegetable oils and its contribution to dietary energy intake and dependence of cardiovascular mortality on dietary intake of fatty acids Int J Mol Sci. 2015;16(6):12871-12890. doi:10.3390/ijms160612871
- Girdler K, Cabatu A, Olds H, Potts GA. Use of castor oil in dermatology: a narrative review Cureus. 2026;18(2):e103289. doi:10.7759/cureus.103289
- Gad HA, Roberts A, Hamzi SH, et al. Jojoba oil: an updated comprehensive review on chemistry, pharmaceutical uses, and toxicity Polymers (Basel). 2021;13(11):1711. doi:10.3390/polym13111711
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