About 90% ricinoleic acid
ReviewRicinoleic acid, a hydroxylated monounsaturated fatty acid, makes up about 90% of the fatty acids in the oil1.
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Castor oil is the fixed oil extracted from the seeds of Ricinus communis4. It is made of about 90% ricinoleic acid1 and contains no ricin2. The CIR panel judges it safe in cosmetics3. On hair, the evidence is weak and shows no growth5.

Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database4, safety according to the CIR expert panel3. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Ricinoleic acid, a hydroxylated monounsaturated fatty acid, makes up about 90% of the fatty acids in the oil1.
Three of the nine samples contained little ricinoleic acid, a sign of blending with other vegetable oils. Measuring the fatty acid profile is a useful quality check at purchase10.
The evidence for improved hair shine is weaker than for coconut oil, and there is no solid evidence of an effect on growth5.
Computer modeling predicts that ricinoleic acid could bind to an enzyme linked to hair shedding. This is a prediction, not a measurement: the authors describe leads for future studies7. No human trial is cited here.
The authors note that most studies on hair oils were run on mice and that more research is needed6.
A case of acute, irreversible felting of long hair was described after both oils were applied after washing. The authors point to the viscosity of castor oil9.
Instrumental measurements of under-eye color went down, as did melanin, wrinkles and sagging. Without a control group, the effect of the oil itself is not established: the authors call for a randomized trial8.
Castor oil, ricinoleic acid and several ricinoleates are judged safe in the uses and concentrations described3. The highest use concentration reported in 2007 is 81%, in lipsticks2.
Ricin does not pass into the oil. The oil and ricinoleic acid may also increase the penetration of other substances through the skin2, a point to keep in mind for formulas that combine actives.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Several of the studies cited were run or funded by industry; this is indicated in the sources.
Our white label catalog includes 25 formulas with castor oil: the key active in 10 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
Material of lip balms and lip oils, also found in eye contour care.
Base of body balms and butters, men's care and pure oil for white label.
Hair oil, serums and styling creams, notably for textured hair.
In our formulas, it is most often paired with
Vitamin E 17Argan oil 13Sweet almond oil 10Coconut oil 10Shea butter 9Four vegetable fats often compared when choosing the base of a care product. Their chemistry differs, so their behavior in a formula does too.
| Castor oil | Shea butter | Coconut oil | Jojoba oil | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chemical nature | Oil: about 90% ricinoleic acid1 | Butter: stearic (28 to 56%) and oleic (34 to 61%) acids11 | Oil: 92.1% saturated fatty acids, of which 47.7% lauric acid12 | Liquid wax: about 98% wax esters13 |
| EU regulation | No restriction | No restriction | No restriction | No restriction |
| Carmel catalog formulas | 25 formulas | 65 formulas | 65 formulas | 25 formulas |
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 2, 2026.

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