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Zinc oxide

Zinc oxide is a white inorganic oxide, listed in CosIng as a UV filter, colorant (CI 77947) and skin protecting agent1. European regulation allows it as a UV filter up to 25%, including in nano form, in applications that cannot expose the lungs by inhalation (Annex VI, entries 30 and 30a)2. The sun protection factor depends on the formula tested56.

White zinc oxide powder in macro view on a sage green ceramic surface

Zinc oxide at a glance

Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1 and Regulation (EC) 1223/20092. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.

INCI name
ZINC OXIDEFor labeling as a colorant, the INCI to use is CI 779471
Other names
CI 77947"Zinc oxide (CI 77947)" in CosIng1; "Zinc oxide" in Annex VI of the regulation2
CAS number
1314-13-2
EC number
215-222-5
Formula
ZnOInorganic oxide1
CosIng functions
UV filter, UV absorber, colorant, skin protectingCosIng also lists antimicrobial, bulking, oral care and light stabilizer1
EU status: UV filter
Allowed up to 25%Annex VI, entry 30 (standard form) and 30a (nano form): 25% in the ready-for-use preparation. If both forms are combined, the sum does not exceed 25%2
EU status: colorant
Allowed (Annex IV, entry 144)White colorant CI 779472
Inhalation
No application exposing the lungsCondition of entries VI/30, VI/30a and IV/144: "not to be used in applications that may lead to exposure of the end-user's lungs by inhalation"2. The text does not name sprays; the SCCS clarified the meaning of "sprayable" for nano forms (opinion referenced in CosIng)1
Conditions for the nano form
Entry VI/30aPurity ≥ 96%, wurtzite structure in rods, stars or isometric shapes; D50 > 30 nm and D1 > 20 nm; water solubility < 50 mg/l; uncoated, or coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane, dimethicone, dimethoxydiphenylsilane-triethoxycaprylylsilane crosspolymer or triethoxyoctylsilane2. The name is followed by [nano] in the ingredient list2
Allergen to declare
NoAbsent from the list of fragrance allergens in Regulation 2023/15453
Safety
Five SCCS or SCCP opinions referencedIncluding one on the nano form1. A 2017 review concludes it is safe to use within regulatory limits9

What the research says

Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.

Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory

Sun protectionUV filters

Better attenuation of long UVA than titanium dioxide

Laboratory and human skin
Model formulas: 5% zinc oxide, 5% titanium dioxide, 3% avobenzoneIn vitro absorbance and UVA protection factor on human skinAuthors linked to a consumer health company

At 5%, zinc oxide attenuates UVA above 360 nm better than titanium dioxide. At comparable sun protection factor, products with zinc oxide or avobenzone have clearly higher UVA protection factors than those with titanium dioxide4.

At high levels, the in vitro factor can be underestimated

Brief review
Formulas with 10-25% zinc oxideIn vitro methods and ISO 24444 standard (in vivo)

Formulas rich in zinc oxide often give a lower in vitro factor than the in vivo factor. The authors explain this by density (1.3 to 1.7 g/ml versus about 1.0 for an organic filter emulsion): at equal weight, the deposited film is thinner. Preliminary tests at equal volume correlate better; further evidence is needed5.

Factor measurement varies from lab to lab

Clinical trial
32 products, 12 laboratoriesMulticenter trial, ISO 24444 standard

Variability between laboratories is proportional to the factor: the higher it is, the greater the spread. The authors judge it greater than what the public and regulators expect6. A product's factor therefore depends on its formula and the test method, not on a single filter.

Safety and penetrationReviews and assessments

Low skin penetration, mixed results on damaged skin

Review
Two reviews, 2015 and 2019Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide nanoparticles

All studies agree: the vast majority of nanoparticles stay on the skin surface. Conclusions on passage into living skin are mixed, because protocols differ widely7. Most authors find no penetration into the living layers; passage through damaged skin is not excluded and needs studies8.

Safety margins calculated for zinc oxide

Risk assessment
2017 toxicology review13-week oral study in rats

Zinc oxide is practically non-toxic in animals and shows no carcinogenic potential. A no-effect dose of 268.4 mg/kg/day was retained; the maximum estimated systemic exposure for a sunscreen is 0.6 mg/kg/day, a safety margin of 448.2 at the lowest. The authors conclude it is safe to use within the 25% regulatory limit in force in Korea9.

Little difference in profile between nano and micro, per an industry review

Review (industry authors)
2012 reviewAuthors from a cosmetics manufacturer

According to this review, insoluble titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles do not cross human skin, and no difference in safety profile appears between micro and nano forms10. The authors work for a cosmetics manufacturer.

Mineral and organicComparison

Six organic filters found in blood at maximal use

Randomized trial
48 volunteers, 4 products (lotion and sprays)Applied to 75% of the body, 4 times a day for 3 daysFDA study, 6 organic filters

For the 6 organic filters tested (avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, octisalate, octinoxate), mean maximum plasma concentrations exceed 0.5 ng/mL, the FDA threshold, from the first day after a single application11. The trial measures absorption, not an effect on health, and does not cover zinc oxide.

This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Zinc oxide is a UV filter: the protection factor of a product depends on its whole formula and the measurement method, not on a single ingredient, and no factor is promised here. Several studies are authored by industry, as the source list indicates.

Concentrations used in studies

No trial cited compares several concentrations in the same formula. The model UVA study uses 5% zinc oxide4, and a review discusses formulas at 10-25%5. The regulation sets 25% as the maximum, standard and nano forms added together2. The factor obtained depends on the formula tested, not on the level alone.

Which products use zinc oxide?

Our white label catalog includes 7 formulas with zinc oxide: the key active in 3 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).

1Face

Supporting ingredient in a liquid blush.

6Body

Key active in a diaper cream and a solid deodorant; mineral filter, with titanium dioxide, in the catalog sun care products.

Zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or organic filters?

The choice between mineral and organic filters is made formula by formula. Here is what the sources say, with no promised factor.

Zinc oxideTitanium dioxideOrganic filters
NatureInorganic oxide1Inorganic oxide12Organic molecules (avobenzone, octocrylene, homosalate...)11
Annex VIEntries 30 and 30a (nano): 25%2Entries 27 and 27a (nano): 25%2One entry per filter, each with its own limit2
UVA in the labAt 5%, good attenuation above 360 nm4At 5%, lower attenuation: does not replace zinc oxide or avobenzone for a high UVA level4Photostabilized avobenzone at 3%: also better than titanium dioxide at 5%4
InhalationNo application exposing the lungs2No application exposing the lungs2Condition specific to each entry, for example "not to be used in sprays" for tris-biphenyl triazine2
Point of attentionIn vitro factor sometimes underestimated at 10-25%5Powders with ≥ 1% of particles ≤ 10 µm: Annex III, entry 3212Passage into blood measured for 6 filters at maximal use11

Frequently asked questions about zinc oxide

What is zinc oxide?
It is a white inorganic oxide (CAS 1314-13-2), declared as ZINC OXIDE on the label, or CI 77947 when used as a colorant. In CosIng, its functions are UV filter, UV absorber, colorant and skin protecting agent, among others1.
What is the difference between a mineral and an organic filter?
Mineral filters are inorganic oxides: zinc oxide and titanium dioxide112. Organic filters are molecules such as avobenzone or octocrylene11. Neither is "better" in itself: at 5%, zinc oxide protects better against long UVA than titanium dioxide4, and each filter has its own regulatory entry and conditions2.
Is nano zinc oxide allowed?
Yes, under conditions: entry VI/30a, purity ≥ 96%, wurtzite structure, D50 > 30 nm, water solubility < 50 mg/l, uncoated or coated with the listed silanes or dimethicone, and no application exposing the lungs2. The name is followed by [nano] in the ingredient list2. Nanomaterials used as regulated UV filters are exempt from the nanomaterial provisions of Article 16, unless otherwise specified2.
Can you use zinc oxide in a spray?
Entries VI/30, VI/30a and IV/144 prohibit applications that may expose the lungs by inhalation2. The text does not name sprays; the SCCS clarified the meaning of "sprayable" for nano forms1. For any spray or loose powder, compliance is checked before launching the formula.
What percentage of zinc oxide should you use in a product?
The limit is 25% for the UV filter, standard and nano forms added together2. The model UVA study uses 5%4. The level depends on the use: UV filter, colorant or skin protectant. It is set with the formulator.
Does zinc oxide penetrate the skin?
For sunscreen nanoparticles, the vast majority stay on the skin surface7; most authors find no penetration into the living layers, with passage through damaged skin still to be studied8. A 2017 review judges skin penetration of zinc oxide to be low9.
What sun protection factor can you aim for with zinc oxide?
No factor can be promised from a single ingredient. The factor depends on the formula tested and the method: spread between laboratories is greater than expected6, and at 10-25% zinc oxide, the in vitro factor can underestimate the in vivo factor5. It is measured on the finished product.
Can you manufacture a zinc oxide product for my brand?
Yes. Our ISO 22716 certified lab offers 7 formulas containing zinc oxide (sun care, diaper cream, deodorant, makeup) that you can customize, or a custom formula. Samples are free.

Sources

Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.

  1. European Commission. CosIng, entry ZINC OXIDE (CAS 1314-13-2, EC 215-222-5). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
  2. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products (consolidated text of May 1, 2025). eur-lex.europa.eu
  3. Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 as regards labelling of fragrance allergens in cosmetic products. eur-lex.europa.eu
  4. Beasley DG, Meyer TA. Characterization of the UVA protection provided by avobenzone, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide in broad-spectrum sunscreen products. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2010;11(6):413-421. doi:10.2165/11537050-000000000-00000Merck Consumer Care
  5. Osterwalder U, Hubaud JC, Perroux-David E, Moraine T, van den Bosch J. Sun-protection factor of zinc-oxide sunscreens: SPF(in vitro) too low compared to SPF(in vivo), a brief review. Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2024;23(10):1999-2009. doi:10.1007/s43630-024-00644-0Authors affiliated with sun care companies
  6. Cole C, Colson B, Uhlig S. The variability of in vivo sunscreen sun protection factor values. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2025;47 Suppl 1:25-36. doi:10.1111/ics.70000
  7. Gulson B, McCall MJ, Bowman DM, Pinheiro T. A review of critical factors for assessing the dermal absorption of metal oxide nanoparticles from sunscreens applied to humans, and a research strategy to address current deficiencies. Arch Toxicol. 2015;89(11):1909-1930. doi:10.1007/s00204-015-1564-z
  8. Vujovic M, Kostic E. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreens: a review of toxicological data. J Cosmet Sci. 2019;70(5):223-234. PMID 31596227
  9. Kim KB, Kim YW, Lim SK, et al. Risk assessment of zinc oxide, a cosmetic ingredient used as a UV filter of sunscreens. J Toxicol Environ Health B Crit Rev. 2017;20(3):155-182. doi:10.1080/10937404.2017.1290516
  10. Nohynek GJ, Dufour EK. Nano-sized cosmetic formulations or solid nanoparticles in sunscreens: a risk to human health?. Arch Toxicol. 2012;86(7):1063-1075. doi:10.1007/s00204-012-0831-5L'Oréal (authors)
  11. Matta MK, Florian J, Zusterzeel R, et al. Effect of sunscreen application on plasma concentration of sunscreen active ingredients: a randomized clinical trial. JAMA. 2020;323(3):256-267. doi:10.1001/jama.2019.20747
  12. European Commission. CosIng, entry TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CAS 13463-67-7, EC 236-675-5). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
  13. Dréno B, Alexis A, Chuberre B, Marinovich M. Safety of titanium dioxide nanoparticles in cosmetics. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2019;33 Suppl 7:34-46. doi:10.1111/jdv.15943L'Oréal (co-author)
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