A triglyceride rich in linoleic acid
LaboratoryIn the sample analyzed, linoleic acid reaches 62.2% and oleic acid 28.0%. Saturated fatty acids account for 9.4% (palmitic 6.2%, stearic 2.8%)6.
Sunflower oil
Sunflower oil is the fixed oil pressed from the seeds of Helianthus annuus9. In the sample analyzed, it contains 62.2% linoleic acid and 28.0% oleic acid6. CosIng classifies it as an emollient, occlusive and solvent9. In adults, it preserved the integrity of the stratum corneum and improved hydration in a forearm trial1.
Sunflower oil at a glance
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database9. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
- INCI name
- HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL
- Other names
- Sunflower oilSunflower seed oil; sunflower oil
- CAS number
- 8001-21-6CosIng also lists 84776-03-4 and 164250-88-8, marked "generic"9
- EC number
- 232-273-9
- Botanical origin
- Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)Fixed oil pressed from the seeds of Helianthus annuus9
- Composition
- Triglycerides, linoleic and oleicIn the sample analyzed: linoleic 62.2%, oleic 28.0%, palmitic 6.2%, stearic 2.8%, saturated 9.4%6
- CosIng functions
- Emollient, occlusive, solvent"Skin conditioning - emollient", "skin conditioning - occlusive", "skin conditioning - miscellaneous" and "solvent"9
- EU status
- No restriction specific to the ingredientOnly the general mention on ozone-depleting substances appears in CosIng9; Helianthus does not appear in Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 consolidated on May 1, 2025
- Allergen to declare
- NoNot on the list of fragrance allergens in Regulation (EU) 2023/1545
- Allergenic proteins
- Point of attention raised by a reviewA 2025 review notes that oils rich in oleic acid or containing allergenic proteins can weaken the barrier and favor the penetration of allergens3. Ask for the batch specification
- Safety (CIR)
- Report on 244 vegetable oilsCosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) report on 244 vegetable oils: judged safe as used in cosmetics. We could not check here whether this INCI is among the 244 oils; check it in the report8
What the research says
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory
Composition and materialChemistry
Proposed mechanisms, to be confirmed
ReviewThe authors describe an oil rich in linoleic and oleic acids, whose effects on the barrier would work through the reorganization of lipid bilayers, ceramide synthesis and activation of the PPAR-α receptor. These are mechanisms proposed by the review3.
Skin and bodySkincare, bodycare
Sunflower oil preserves the stratum corneum, olive oil weakens it
Clinical trialApplied to one forearm, sunflower oil preserved the integrity of the stratum corneum, caused no redness and improved hydration. On the other forearm, olive oil reduced the integrity of the stratum corneum and caused mild redness1.
High linoleic acid, watch the oleic acid
ReviewOn skin that is already weakened, oils rich in oleic acid and low in linoleic acid can worsen damage to the stratum corneum; those rich in linoleic acid or saturated fatty acids can have positive effects. On unaffected skin, an oleic-rich oil does not necessarily react negatively. Frequency and duration of use matter2.
The linoleic/oleic ratio, a benchmark for the barrier
ReviewOils with a high linoleic acid/oleic acid ratio have a better potential for barrier repair; irritating oleic acid can harm it. Sunflower is among the oils reviewed4.
Water loss and hydration: the clinical data summarized
ReviewThe review reports, in clinical trials, a drop in transepidermal water loss and better hydration on dry skin. It adds that oils rich in oleic acid or containing allergenic proteins can compromise the barrier3.
What reviews and experts saySafety, uses
One oil among 19 reviewed for the barrier
ReviewSunflower oil is among the 19 oils and butters whose effects on skin application, notably on barrier repair, the review brings together5. Linoleic acid, the main component of this oil, is linked in the literature to barrier repair in animal or cell models7.
Safety: a report on 244 vegetable oils
ReviewThe expert panel concludes that the 244 vegetable oils assessed are safe as used in cosmetics. The review focused mainly on skin effects8.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Several of the studies cited were run or funded by industry; this is indicated in the sources.
Which products use sunflower oil?
Our white label catalog includes 7 formulas with sunflower oil: the key active in 1 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
3Body
Oil in the SPF 50 sun stick and the cedar-cinnamon and peppermint massage oils.
Sunflower, olive, grapeseed or sweet almond?
Four triglyceride oils measured in the same study. Sunflower and olive were also compared with each other on the forearm.
| Sunflower oil | Olive oil | Grapeseed oil | Sweet almond oil | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Linoleic acid | 62.2%6 | 16.4%6 | 74.7%6 | 22.8%6 |
| Oleic acid | 28.0%6 | 66.4%6 | 14.3%6 | 67.2%6 |
| Adult forearm stratum corneum | Integrity preserved1 | Integrity reduced1 | Not studied in our sources | Not studied in our sources |
| EU regulation | No restriction | No restriction | No restriction | No restriction |
| Carmel catalog formulas | 7 formulas | 13 formulas | 14 formulas | 74 formulas |
Frequently asked questions about sunflower oil
What is sunflower oil?
What are the benefits of sunflower oil in cosmetics?
Is sunflower oil good for hair?
We found no controlled study on hair with this oil: it is a formulation use. In our catalog, it goes into scalp scrubs.
Is sunflower oil comedogenic, and is it suitable for the face?
Sunflower oil or olive oil for skin?
Is sunflower oil safe?
No restriction specific to the ingredient applies in the EU9 and it is not on the list of fragrance allergens. The CIR judged the 244 vegetable oils of its report safe8, though we could not check here whether this INCI is on the list. A review flags attention to allergenic proteins depending on the oil3. During pregnancy, as with any skincare product, a healthcare professional's advice remains the rule.
Can you manufacture a sunflower oil or a sunflower product for my brand?
Yes. Our ISO 22716 certified lab offers 7 formulas containing sunflower oil (sun stick, massage oils, scalp scrubs) that you can customize, or a custom formula. Samples are free.
Sources
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
- Danby SG, AlEnezi T, Sultan A, et al. Effect of olive and sunflower seed oil on the adult skin barrier: implications for neonatal skin care Pediatr Dermatol. 2013;30(1):42-50. doi:10.1111/j.1525-1470.2012.01865.x
- Poljšak N, Kočevar Glavač N. Vegetable butters and oils as therapeutically and cosmetically active ingredients for dermal use: a review of clinical studies Front Pharmacol. 2022;13:868461. doi:10.3389/fphar.2022.868461
- Lim HC, Lee SK, Keng JW, et al. Mechanistic insights and clinical evidence of Helianthus annuus Linn. (sunflower) seed oil for dermatological applications: a narrative review Drug Deliv Transl Res. 2025;15(11):4260-4276. doi:10.1007/s13346-025-01939-0
- Vaughn AR, Clark AK, Sivamani RK, Shi VY. Natural oils for skin-barrier repair: ancient compounds now backed by modern science Am J Clin Dermatol. 2018;19(1):103-117. doi:10.1007/s40257-017-0301-1
- Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils Int J Mol Sci. 2017;19(1):70. doi:10.3390/ijms19010070
- Orsavova J, Misurcova L, Ambrozova JV, et al. Fatty acids composition of vegetable oils and its contribution to dietary energy intake and dependence of cardiovascular mortality on dietary intake of fatty acids Int J Mol Sci. 2015;16(6):12871-12890. doi:10.3390/ijms160612871
- Wang X, Jia Y, He H. The role of linoleic acid in skin and hair health: a review Int J Mol Sci. 2024;26(1):246. doi:10.3390/ijms26010246
- Burnett CL, Fiume MM, Bergfeld WF, et al. Safety assessment of plant-derived fatty acid oils Int J Toxicol. 2017;36(3_suppl):51S-129S. doi:10.1177/1091581817740569
- European Commission. CosIng, entry HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL (CAS 84776-03-4 (generic) / 8001-21-6 / 164250-88-8 (generic), CE 232-273-9). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
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