Cocoa butter

Q: Is cocoa butter comedogenic, and is it suitable for oily skin?

It induced microcomedones in 6 volunteers under patch and is among the materials tested in the rabbit ear test. It should therefore be dosed with caution on oily skin; tolerance is checked on the finished formula. We give no numerical rating, as no official source provides one.

Q: Is cocoa butter safe?

No restriction applies to the ingredient in the EU and it is not among the allergens to declare under Regulation (EU) 2023/1545. We kept no CIR or SCCS assessment. During pregnancy, as with any skincare product, a healthcare professional's advice remains the rule.

Cocoa butter is the solid, very pale yellow fat obtained from the roasted seeds of the cacao tree, Theobroma cacao9. It rests on the triglycerides POP, POS and SOS7. CosIng classifies it as an emollient and skin protecting agent9. A controlled trial showed no effect on stretch marks1, and it is recognized as comedogenic in laboratory models.

Mohamed El HjoujiFounder and CEO · Updated November 3, 2026 · Reading time 7 min

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Cocoa butter at a glance

Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database9. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.

INCI name: THEOBROMA CACAO SEED BUTTER
Other names: Cocoa butterCocoa butter; US INCI name THEOBROMA CACAO (COCOA) SEED BUTTER
CAS number: 84649-99-0 / 8002-31-1Two numbers in CosIng9
EC number: 283-480-6
Botanical origin: Cacao tree (Sterculiaceae)Very pale yellow solid obtained from the roasted seeds of Theobroma cacao L.9
Composition: POP, POS and SOS triglyceridesPalmitic, stearic and oleic acids; composition varies mostly with origin, little with fermentation7 6
CosIng functions: Emollient, skin protecting, fragrance"Skin conditioning - emollient", "skin conditioning", "skin protecting" and "fragrance"9
EU status: No restriction specific to the ingredientNo annex or restriction is indicated in CosIng9; the name and the CAS and EC numbers do not appear in the consolidated text of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 on 1 May 2025
Allergen to declare: NoAbsent from Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 and from the consolidated Annex III
Comedogenicity: Positive in the laboratoryRabbit (ear test) and human patches, see the research section4 3
Safety: No CIR or SCCS assessment foundWe found no official opinion specific to cocoa butter

What the research says

Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.

Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory

Composition and materialChemistry

POP, POS and SOS triglycerides

Laboratory

GC, HPLC, DSC analysisPure cocoa butter and cocoa butter with added lard

Cocoa butter is characterized by its palmitic, stearic and oleic acids and by the triglycerides POS, SOS and POP. Adding 1 to 30% of lard increases oleic acid and lowers the three triglycerides: this is how adulteration is detected7.

Stable composition during fermentation, variable by origin

Laboratory

Madagascar, Dominican Republic, EcuadorFermentation from 0 to 6 days

The triglycerides, fatty acids and unsaponifiable matter of the butter remain statistically stable during fermentation. Origin has the predominant effect on composition6.

A reference for substitutes

Laboratory

Mango kernel fatComparison

Mango kernel fat comes close to cocoa in its palmitic, oleic and stearic acids8. It contains 28.9 to 65.0% of SOS triglyceride11.

Skin and bodySkincare, bodycare

Pregnancy stretch marks: no demonstrated effect

Clinical trial

Double-blind controlled trial, LebanonCocoa butter lotion or placebo, applied daily until delivery175 women analyzed out of 210

Stretch marks appeared in 45.1% of women with the cocoa butter lotion and 48.8% with placebo (P = 0.730), with no difference in severity. The result does not change with compliance or with stretch marks at enrollment1.

Same conclusion in a prevention review

Review

2015 reviewTopical prevention of pregnancy stretch marks

The authors conclude that cocoa butter and olive oil are not effective in preventing stretch marks or reducing their severity, and that rigorous evidence remains scarce for all topical products2.

A reformulated pediatric cream: longer-lasting hydration

Clinical trial

Oil-in-water creamCocoa, urea, glycerol and white beeswaxSample size not given in the abstract

The reformulated cream gives longer-lasting hydration and supports the barrier without occlusion. The effect cannot be attributed to cocoa butter alone, added to urea and glycerol5.

Pores and comedogenicityTolerance

Microcomedones induced under patch

Clinical trial

6 participantsCocoa butter patches on the upper backConfocal microscopy, 4 weeks

The ratio of microcomedones per follicle rose significantly compared with the untreated area at 2 weeks (p = 0.0419). The diameter of microcomedones was larger at 2 and 4 weeks (p = 0.0026 and 0.0038)3. Small sample, but consistent with the animal test.

Positive in the rabbit ear test

Laboratory

Rabbit ear testCosmetic materials

Cocoa butter is among the materials tested. From the order of the list given in the abstract, it is among the first nine, judged positive4. To be confirmed on the full text.

This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Several studies cited were run or funded by manufacturers; this is stated in the sources.

Which products use cocoa butter?

Our white label catalog includes 1 formula with cocoa butter: the key active in 1 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).

1Body

Body balms and butters for dry skin.

Body butters and balms1

Shea and Cocoa BalmKey active

In our formulas, it is most often paired with

Shea butter 1 Sweet almond oil 1 Vitamin E 1

Cocoa, mango or shea?

Three solid vegetable butters often compared as the base of a balm. Their composition is close; tolerance on blemish-prone skin is checked case by case.

	Cocoa butter	Mango butter	Shea butter
Chemical nature	POP, POS and SOS triglycerides (palmitic, stearic, oleic acids)7	Close to cocoa; 28.9 to 65.0% of SOS triglyceride11	Butter: stearic (28 to 56%) and oleic (34 to 61%) acids10
EU regulation	No restriction	No restriction	No restriction
Carmel catalog formulas	1 formula	2 formulas	65 formulas

Frequently asked questions about cocoa butter

What is cocoa butter?

It is the solid fat extracted from the roasted seeds of the cacao tree, Theobroma cacao9. It rests on the triglycerides POP, POS and SOS7. Its INCI name is THEOBROMA CACAO SEED BUTTER.

What are the benefits of cocoa butter for skin?

CosIng classifies it as an emollient and skin protecting agent9. A formulation study reports longer-lasting hydration for a cream that combines it with urea and glycerol, without being able to isolate its role5. We found no trial that measures its effect alone: this page credits it with no quantified effect.

Is cocoa butter effective against stretch marks?

No, according to the data: a controlled trial of 175 pregnant women showed no difference from placebo (45.1% versus 48.8%)1, and a 2015 review concludes the same way2.

Is cocoa butter comedogenic, and is it suitable for oily skin?

It induced microcomedones in 6 volunteers under patch3 and is among the materials tested in the rabbit ear test4. It should therefore be dosed with caution on oily skin; tolerance is checked on the finished formula. We give no numerical rating, as no official source provides one.

Is cocoa butter good for hair?

It is found in rich care for dry hair, but we found no study that measures its effect alone on hair. It is a formulation use, not a demonstrated effect.

Is cocoa butter safe?

No restriction applies to the ingredient in the EU9 and it is not among the allergens to declare under Regulation (EU) 2023/1545. We kept no CIR or SCCS assessment. During pregnancy, as with any skincare product, a healthcare professional's advice remains the rule.

Can you manufacture a balm or a care product with cocoa butter for my brand?

Yes. Our ISO 22716 certified lab offers a cocoa butter formula (the shea and cocoa balm) that you can customize, or a custom formula. Samples are free.

Sources

Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.

Osman H, Usta IM, Rubeiz N, et al. Cocoa butter lotion for prevention of striae gravidarum: a double-blind, randomised and placebo-controlled trial BJOG. 2008;115(9):1138-42. doi:10.1111/j.1471-0528.2008.01796.x
Korgavkar K, Wang F Stretch marks during pregnancy: a review of topical prevention Br J Dermatol. 2015;172(3):606-15. doi:10.1111/bjd.13426
Baek JH, Ahn HJ, Koh JS, et al. Early detection of microcomedones induced by cocoa butter using reflectance confocal microscopy J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022;21(7):3016-3021. doi:10.1111/jocd.14522
Nguyen SH, Dang TP, Maibach HI Comedogenicity in rabbit: some cosmetic ingredients/vehicles Cutan Ocul Toxicol. 2007;26(4):287-92. doi:10.1080/15569520701555383
Kovács A, Péter-Héderi D, Perei K, et al. Effects of Formulation Excipients on Skin Barrier Function in Creams Used in Pediatric Care Pharmaceutics. 2020;12(8). doi:10.3390/pharmaceutics12080729
Servent A, Boulanger R, Davrieux F, et al. Assessment of cocoa (Theobroma cacao L.) butter content and composition throughout fermentations Food Res Int. 2018;107:675-682. doi:10.1016/j.foodres.2018.02.070
Azir M, Abbasiliasi S, Tengku Ibrahim TA, et al. Detection of Lard in Cocoa Butter-Its Fatty Acid Composition, Triacylglycerol Profiles, and Thermal Characteristics Foods. 2017;6(11). doi:10.3390/foods6110098
Kaur G, Kaur D, Kansal SK, et al. Potential cocoa butter substitute derived from mango seed kernel Food Chem. 2022;372:131244. doi:10.1016/j.foodchem.2021.131244
European Commission. CosIng, entry THEOBROMA CACAO SEED BUTTER (CAS 84649-99-0 / 8002-31-1, EC 283-480-6). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
Akihisa T, Kojima N, Katoh N, et al. Triterpene alcohol and fatty acid composition of shea nuts from seven African countries J Oleo Sci. 2010;59(7):351-360. doi:10.5650/jos.59.351
Jin J, Jin Q, Akoh CC, et al. Mango kernel fat fractions as potential healthy food ingredients: A review Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 2019;59(11):1794-1801. doi:10.1080/10408398.2018.1428527

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Cocoa butter at a glance

What the research says

Composition and materialChemistry

POP, POS and SOS triglycerides

Stable composition during fermentation, variable by origin

A reference for substitutes

Skin and bodySkincare, bodycare

Pregnancy stretch marks: no demonstrated effect

Same conclusion in a prevention review

A reformulated pediatric cream: longer-lasting hydration

Pores and comedogenicityTolerance

Microcomedones induced under patch

Positive in the rabbit ear test

Which products use cocoa butter?

1Body

Cocoa, mango or shea?

Frequently asked questions about cocoa butter

Further reading

Sources

Tell us about your project