Beeswax

The wax is a mixture of wax esters, hydrocarbons and free fatty acids. It acts as a stiffening agent, viscosity modifier and emulsion stabilizer, and forms an occlusive barrier that increases skin hydration3.

More than 50 major compounds were detected: even and odd hydrocarbons, palmitate, oleate and hydroxypalmitate monoesters. The method tells an authentic wax from one adulterated with paraffin, with 100% recognition and 99% prediction in cross-validation4.

The melting point goes from 61.5 to 74.5 °C and the acid value from 19.57 to 34.42 mg KOH/g with storage time. Floral origin also affects the physical properties5. A wax is qualified batch by batch.

The review describes the wax as occlusive, humectant and emollient, and notes several studies in favor of skin barrier support. It concludes that it is an inexpensive, natural ingredient and that more studies are needed1.

The formula lowered transepidermal water loss and increased stratum corneum hydration at 28 days. The effect relates to a nanoparticle form, not to the raw wax2.

White wax replaces petrolatum and liquid paraffin. The resulting cream gives longer-lasting hydration and supports the barrier without occlusion. The effect is that of the whole formula8.

17 participants reacted to beeswax; 14 of these 17 also reacted to propolis. Among 14 people tested with both waxes, 8 reacted to both, 5 to the yellow wax only and 1 to the white wax only6. A selected population: it does not measure how common this is in the general population.

None of the 500 cosmetics listed propolis. Reactions to wax in people sensitized to propolis, through residues, remain rare and mostly involve lip balms7.