A plant exfoliant measured on skin: soapwort callus
Clinical trialNo sign of irritation (mean score 0.28) and a desquamation index reduced by 44.07%. The authors see it as an alternative to synthetic exfoliating agents5.
Apricot kernel powder
Apricot kernel powder is the ground shell of the Prunus armeniaca kernel, listed as an abrasive in CosIng1. It has nothing to do with apricot kernel oil, which has a different INCI2. We found no peer-reviewed study on this powder: the data cover other plant exfoliants and the phase-out of microplastics.
Apricot kernel powder at a glance
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
- INCI name
- PRUNUS ARMENIACA SHELL POWDERNot to be confused with apricot kernel oil, listed as PRUNUS ARMENIACA KERNEL OIL (CAS 68650-44-2 / 72869-69-3)2
- Other names
- Apricot shell powderThe shell is the hard part of the kernel that surrounds the seed
- CAS number
- Not provided in CosIngThe CosIng entry has no CAS number for this INCI1
- EC number
- Not provided in CosIngThe CosIng entry has no EC number for this INCI1
- Botanical origin
- Shell of the apricot tree kernel (Prunus armeniaca, Rosaceae)« Powder obtained from the dried, ground shells of Prunus armeniaca (Rosaceae) »1
- CosIng function
- Abrasive« Abrasive »1
- Appearance
- Beige to brown powder, variable particle sizeParticle size depends on grinding and sieving; it is set with the formulator
- EU status
- No restrictionNot listed in Annexes II to VI of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009, consolidated version of May 1, 20259
- Allergen to declare
- NoNot on the fragrance allergen list of Regulation (EU) 2023/154510
- Safety
- No CIR or SCCS assessment foundSafety of the finished formula is the responsibility of the safety assessor, under Regulation (EC) 1223/2009
What the research says
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory
SkinSkincare
A grape seed residue scrub, stable and non-irritating
Clinical trialThe residues have a gritty texture close to commercial natural exfoliants. The 1.5% scrub was judged the most promising: stable, and applied without irritation4.
A coffee grounds scrub: the base changes the result
Clinical trialThe ointment-based scrub did not alter the skin barrier. Water-based bases disrupted it temporarily, with full recovery within 6 h after a hand cream3.
Microplastic alternativeEnvironment
Plastic microbeads, a focus of dermatology reviews
ReviewThe review looks at intentionally added microbeads, microplastics released by packaging and substances of concern in personal care products, then makes recommendations to reduce the impact6.
The industry is removing microplastics from its formulas
ReviewFormulators are adapting their products to current and future laws aimed at eliminating microplastics. The review also describes sustainable replacements7.
A European restriction on synthetic microparticles
RegulationRegulation (EU) 2023/2055 adds to REACH a restriction on synthetic polymer microparticles, with phased reporting obligations. The natural origin of a substance is among the criteria that allow it to be excluded from the definition8. A ground shell powder is a plant material; the exact scope and the timelines by product type should be checked in the text of the regulation.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. We found no peer-reviewed study on apricot shell powder in cosmetics. The results below cover other plant exfoliants: they show how an exfoliant is measured, not what this powder does.
Which products use apricot kernel powder?
Our white label catalog includes 3 formulas with apricot kernel powder: the key active in 2 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
1Face
Apricot kernel face scrub, and supporting ingredient in a licorice extract scrub.
2Body
Apricot kernel body scrub, and supporting ingredient in an argan shell scrub.
In our formulas, it is most often paired with
Hyaluronic acid 2Allantoin 2Argan oil 2Coconut oil 2Vitamin E 2Frequently asked questions about apricot kernel powder
What is apricot kernel powder?
It is the shell of the apricot tree kernel, dried and ground. Its INCI is PRUNUS ARMENIACA SHELL POWDER and CosIng gives it a single function: abrasive1. It is used as a mechanical exfoliant in scrubs.
Apricot kernel powder or apricot kernel oil: what is the difference?
They are two distinct materials. The powder is the ground shell, which is abrasive. The oil has a different INCI, PRUNUS ARMENIACA KERNEL OIL, with its own CAS numbers2. Our catalog uses both, in different products.
Does apricot kernel powder replace plastic microbeads?
What particle size for an apricot kernel scrub?
The sources we used give no particle size, and we do not put one forward. It is set during formulation, controlled by sieving and listed on the supplier's technical data sheet. The particles of a ground shell are irregular: for the face, choose a fine powder and validate tolerance on the finished product.
Is this powder suitable for the face?
No trial targets this powder on the face. We offer an apricot kernel face scrub in our catalog, with a formula to be validated through tolerance tests on the finished product. Studies on other exfoliants show that the formula base affects the skin barrier3.
Is apricot kernel powder regulated in cosmetics?
It does not appear in any of Annexes II to VI of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009, consolidated on May 1, 20259. The finished product must comply with the cosmetics regulation like any other.
Can you manufacture an apricot kernel scrub for my brand?
Yes. Our ISO 22716 certified lab offers 3 apricot kernel powder formulas (face and body scrubs) that you can customize, or a custom formula. Samples are free.
Sources
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng, entry PRUNUS ARMENIACA SHELL POWDER. ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
- European Commission. CosIng, entry PRUNUS ARMENIACA KERNEL OIL (CAS 68650-44-2 / 72869-69-3, EC 272-046-1 / -). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
- Elezović A, Kelle BP, Oras A, et al. Caffeinated Skincare Development and Optimization: Upcycling Spent Coffee Grounds Into Natural Exfoliants J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025;24(12):e70607. doi:10.1111/jocd.70607
- Salem Y, Rajha HN, Sunoqrot S, et al. Exhausted Grape Seed Residues as a Valuable Source of Antioxidant Molecules for the Formulation of Biocompatible Cosmetic Scrubs Molecules. 2023;28(13):5049. doi:10.3390/molecules28135049
- Yu GR, Kim DH, Kim H, et al. Evaluation of Saponin-Rich Callus from Saponaria officinalis L. as a Novel Scrub Material with Significant Exfoliating and Anti-Inflammatory Effects Plants (Basel). 2025;14(10):1535. doi:10.3390/plants14101535
- Anderson A, Tan E, Dunlop S. Plastic in dermatology: Impacts on human health, skin disease, and the contribution of personal care product use to environmental pollution J Am Acad Dermatol. 2026 (online publication). doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2026.03.105
- Giustra M, Sinesi G, Spena F, et al. Microplastics in Cosmetics: Open Questions and Sustainable Opportunities ChemSusChem. 2024;17(22):e202401065. doi:10.1002/cssc.202401065
- Janssen PHM, Rijpkema WA, Bisharat L, et al. Microplastics matter: practical implications of the EU REACH restriction for the pharmaceutical industry Front Drug Deliv. 2026;6:1854462. doi:10.3389/fddev.2026.1854462DFE Pharma
- European Parliament and Council. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, Annexes II to VI, consolidated version of May 1, 2025. eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2009/1223
- European Commission. Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 as regards labeling of fragrance allergens. eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545
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