Skin barrier and hydration in 7 days
Clinical trialStratum corneum hydration increases and water loss decreases, with a significant difference from the vehicle on both measures3.
Panthenol (provitamin B5)
Panthenol, or provitamin B5, is the alcohol of pantothenic acid. Water-soluble, it is used to hydrate skin and support the skin barrier34, with increased hydration between 7 and 11% in a trial on 40 women5. In the lab, it penetrates hair and increases its tensile strength7.
Panthenol at a glance
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1, safety according to the CIR expert panel2. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
- INCI name
- PANTHENOL
- Other names
- Dexpanthenol, provitamin B5Dexpanthenol (D-panthenol): natural form; DL-panthenol: mix of both forms1
- CAS number
- 81-13-0 / 16485-10-2
- EC number
- 201-327-3 / 240-540-6
- Formula
- C₉H₁₉NO₄Molar mass 205.25 g/mol
- CosIng function
- Hair conditioning, skin conditioning, antistatic"Hair conditioning", "Skin conditioning" and "Antistatic" in the European nomenclature1
- Appearance
- Colorless viscous liquid (D-panthenol) or white powder (DL-panthenol)Water-soluble, formulated in the water phase
- EU status
- No restrictionNot listed in the annexes of Regulation (EC) 1223/20091
- Allergen to declare
- NoContact sensitization is rare but described9
- Safety
- Judged safe in cosmeticsCIR panel conclusion under conditions of use2
What the research says
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory
Skin (face and body)Skincare and bodycare
Reduced water loss after a surfactant challenge
Clinical trialOn skin challenged with lauryl sulfate, the reduction in water loss is greater than with the control (area under the curve: −168.36 against −123.38 g/m²/h, p = 0.023). Hydration increases and the intercellular lipid lamellae lengthen4.
Hydration and barrier depending on content
Clinical trialBetween 7 and 11%, skin hydration increases and water loss decreases, whatever the emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion gives the best hydration5.
Scalp and hairHaircare
Hair more resistant to tensile stress
LaboratoryPanthenol penetrates the protein zones of the hair cortex. Treated hair has a higher breaking stress and elastic modulus than controls, probably thanks to hydrogen bonds with hair proteins7.
Scalp in better condition, less hair shedding
Clinical trialA combination of niacinamide, panthenol, caffeine, piroctone olamine and zinc improved scalp condition and reduced hair shedding. The specific effect of panthenol is not isolated: evidence for the single active remains limited8.
Reviews and safetySyntheses
A moisturizer, according to the reviews
ReviewApplied to the skin, dexpanthenol acts as a moisturizer: it improves stratum corneum hydration, reduces water loss and maintains softness and elasticity. The review describes it as well tolerated, with minimal risk of irritation or sensitization. It mostly covers medical uses, not included here6.
Contact sensitization: rare but described
Case series26 people (1.2%) had a positive patch test to 5% dexpanthenol. They were followed for chronic skin reactions and almost all also reacted to other allergens. The authors judge dexpanthenol allergy rare but probably underdiagnosed9.
Assessed as safe in cosmetics
Expert assessmentThe panel judges these 7 ingredients safe at current use concentrations. Panthenol is described there as a skin humectant and a hair conditioning agent2.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Dexpanthenol is also studied for medical uses: only the cosmetic results (hydration, barrier, hair) are included here. Several studies were run or funded by cosmetics companies; this is indicated in the sources.
Concentrations used in studies
The study that compares contents tests panthenol from 5 to 13% in emulsions: hydration increases between 7 and 11%5. The other trials cited do not give the content in their abstract. The final concentration is set with the formulator, depending on the texture and the desired effect.
Which products use panthenol?
Our white label catalog includes 86 formulas with panthenol: the key active in 8 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
36Face
Active in the hydrating toner, supporting active in creams, cleansers, serums and masks.
25Body
Key active in the shower gel and the after-shave cream, also found in body creams, sun care and intimate care.
22Hair
Key active in the shampoo and the conditioner, also found in scalp scrubs, serums and hair masks.
3Raw materials and more
In our formulas, it is most often paired with
Vitamin E 36Niacinamide 30Aloe vera 23Argan oil 23Hyaluronic acid 20Panthenol, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid or aloe vera?
Four hydration and barrier actives often combined in the same formula. They do not exclude each other.
| Panthenol | Niacinamide | Hyaluronic acid | Aloe vera | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main role | Hydration, barrier, hair suppleness1 | Barrier, skin tone, shine | Surface hydration | Hydration and comfort |
| Form | Liquid (D-panthenol) or powder (DL-panthenol) | Crystalline powder soluble in water | Powder or solution depending on molecular weight | Gel, juice or powder |
| Hair | Penetrates hair, increased tensile strength in the lab7 | Studied in combination on the scalp | Mostly a skin active | Supporting active in styling products |
Frequently asked questions about panthenol
What is panthenol?
Are panthenol, dexpanthenol and provitamin B5 the same thing?
Almost. "Dexpanthenol" designates the natural form (D-panthenol, CAS 81-13-0), "DL-panthenol" the mix of both forms (CAS 16485-10-2). On the label, both are declared as PANTHENOL1. "Provitamin B5" is the common name.
What are the benefits of panthenol for skin?
Is panthenol good for hair?
What percentage of panthenol should you choose?
In the only trial that compares contents, hydration increases between 7 and 11% in emulsions5. The other studies do not give the concentration in their abstract. The dose is decided with the formulator, depending on the texture and the target.
What should you pair panthenol with?
In our formulas, it is most often paired with vitamin E, niacinamide, aloe vera, argan oil and hyaluronic acid. As with any combination of actives, the stability of the final formula is checked through lab testing.
Is panthenol safe?
Can you manufacture a panthenol product for my brand?
Yes. Our ISO 22716 certified lab offers 86 panthenol formulas (shampoos, conditioners, shower gels, sun care, men's grooming and face care) that you can customize, or a custom formula. Samples are free.
- Best-selling cosmetic products in France in 2026Ranking by category, with the panthenol soothing balm
- Peri-procedural skincare: create a white label dermocosmetic rangeA panthenol and centella moisturizer in a post-procedure care range
- Top 10 trending cosmetic ingredients in 2026The actives to add to a white label range
Sources
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 2, 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng, PANTHENOL entry (CAS 81-13-0 / 16485-10-2, EC 201-327-3 / 240-540-6). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
- Scott LN, Fiume M, Bergfeld WF, et al. Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2022;41(3 suppl):77-128. doi:10.1177/10915818221124809
- Gehring W, Gloor M. Effect of topically applied dexpanthenol on epidermal barrier function and stratum corneum hydration. Results of a human in vivo study. Arzneimittelforschung. 2000;50(7):659-663. doi:10.1055/s-0031-1300268
- Stettler H, Kurka P, Lunau N, et al. A new topical panthenol-containing emollient: Results from two randomized controlled studies assessing its skin moisturization and barrier restoration potential, and the effect on skin microflora. J Dermatolog Treat. 2017;28(2):173-180. doi:10.1080/09546634.2016.1214235Bayer Consumer Care
- Pavlačková J, Egner P, Sedláček T, et al. In vivo efficacy and properties of semisolid formulations containing panthenol. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019;18(1):346-354. doi:10.1111/jocd.12527
- Ebner F, Heller A, Rippke F, et al. Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2002;3(6):427-433. doi:10.2165/00128071-200203060-00005
- Marsh JM, Cron S, Chen T, et al. Strengthening benefits of panthenol for hair: Mechanistic evidence from advanced spectroscopic techniques. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2026;48(1):121-127. doi:10.1111/ics.70024Procter & Gamble
- Davis MG, Piliang MP, Bergfeld WF, et al. Scalp application of antioxidants improves scalp condition and reduces hair shedding in a 24-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021;43 Suppl 1:S14-S25. doi:10.1111/ics.12734Procter & Gamble
- Fernandes RA, Santiago L, Gouveia M, et al. Allergic contact dermatitis caused by dexpanthenol-Probably a frequent allergen. Contact Dermatitis. 2018;79(5):276-280. doi:10.1111/cod.13054
Tell us about your project
A product specialist reviews your request and gets back to you on the channel you prefer.
No obligation. Your information stays confidential and is used only to prepare your quote.