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Ceramides

Ceramides are lipids made of a sphingoid base and a fatty acid. With cholesterol and free fatty acids, they form the lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum that limit water evaporation68. In cosmetics, ceramides (CERAMIDE NP, NG, AP) are added to support the barrier, but the effect depends on the complete formula810.

Ceramides, white waxy powder, macro view on a sage green ceramic surface

Ceramides at a glance

Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1234, safety according to the CIR expert panel5. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.

INCI name
CERAMIDE NPOther INCI names in the same group: CERAMIDE NG, CERAMIDE AP, CERAMIDE EOP234
Other names
Ceramides, sphingolipidsFormer CosIng names: ceramide 2 (NG), ceramide 6 II (AP), ceramide 1 (EOP)234
CAS number (NP)
34354-88-6CosIng also lists the generic CAS 100403-19-81
CAS number (NG)
2304-80-5Ceramide NG, formerly "Ceramide 2"2
EC number (NP)
309-560-3
Structure
N-acylated sphingolipidSphingoid base (phytosphingosine for NP and AP, sphinganine for NG) linked to a fatty acid123
CosIng functions
Skin conditioning, hair conditioning"Skin conditioning" and "hair conditioning" in the European nomenclature1
Appearance
Lipids dissolved with heatThey enter the formula after heating; undissolved, they lose their value for the barrier9
EU status
No restrictionNot listed in the annexes of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 for NP, NG, AP and EOP1234
Allergen to declare
No
Safety
Judged safe in cosmeticsCIR panel conclusion under conditions of use5

What the research says

Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.

Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory

Facial skinSkincare

Cream with centella, ceramide NP and panthenol: sensitive skin

Clinical trial
Face cream4 weeks88 womenObservational study, no control group

The SS-10 discomfort score drops by 66% at 2 weeks and by 76% at 4 weeks. Water loss and pH decrease, and hydration increases. The ceramide is not isolated from the other actives7.

An undissolved ceramide loses its value

Laboratory
In vitro models of impaired barrierReview and experiments

Ceramides must be heated and then dissolved before entering the formula. Undissolved ceramides reduce the formula's ability to restore the barrier in the models tested9.

BodyBodycare

Dry lower-leg skin: hydration and water loss

Clinical trial
Cream with ceramides 1, 3 and 6-II28 days, twice a day24 volunteersDouble-blind, half-leg

From a single application, hydration increases and water loss and pH improve for 24 h. At 28 days, the effect is clearer than with the hydrophilic control cream, with wrinkles and texture improved. The effect on hydration persists 7 days after stopping10.

HairHaircare

A ceramide binds to Afro hair and limits breakage

Laboratory
Relaxed Afro hairCeramide shampooBrushing test

A sphinganine-derived ceramide binds to relaxed hair and protects it from chemical weakening. A shampoo that contains it reduces breakage during brushing. Study by a hair care manufacturer, on hair fibers11.

What experts say and safetyDermatology

A major lipid of the water barrier

Review
2003 review

Ceramides structure the lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum and the water barrier. The authors stress that the link between a ceramide deficit and skin disorders is hard to prove, and consider topical supplementation promising8.

Three lipid classes, one network

Review
2023 review

Ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids form a lipid matrix, the only continuous pathway through the stratum corneum. It governs how substances enter the skin6.

Complete mix or single lipid

Laboratory
Mouse skin, preliminary tests on damaged human skinWater loss measurement

One or two of these lipids applied alone delay barrier recovery; an equimolar mix of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids allows it normally. Speed-up of up to a threefold ratio12.

What recent reviews say

Review
2025 review

Ceramides provide a water barrier, hydration and pH regulation. They can be supplied directly, through pseudo-ceramides or through actives that stimulate natural synthesis13.

Calculated margin of safety for ceramide 3

Safety assessment
Exposure model0.5 to 10% assumed

The margin of safety indicates no concern below 1% ceramide 3. It is 149 for a 3% face cream, 168 for a 5% body milk on the back and 4,111 for a 10% lipstick14.

This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Most trials test a complete cream, not the ceramide alone: the specific effect of the ceramide is therefore not isolated. One review and one hair study were run by manufacturers; this is indicated in the sources.

Which products use ceramides?

Our white label catalog includes 11 formulas with ceramides: the key active in 8 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).

5Face

Key active in the barrier serum and cream, also present in an extra-rich cleansing gel and masks.

2Body

Washing cream with ceramides and hyaluronic acid, baby and kids washing gel.

In our formulas, it is most often paired with

Niacinamide 6Shea butter 4Aloe vera 3Argan oil 3

Ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids or niacinamide?

Three lipid classes form the stratum corneum barrier6; niacinamide acts on their synthesis. A barrier formula often combines these approaches.

CeramidesCholesterolFree fatty acidsNiacinamide
Role in the barrierMajor lipid of the stratum corneum lamellae68Second main class of the lipid matrix6Third main class of the lipid matrix6Multiplies ceramide synthesis by 4 to 5.5 in keratinocyte culture15
Applied alone or as a mixAlone, delays barrier recovery in mice12Alone, same finding; the equimolar mix recovers normally12Alone, same finding; the equimolar mix recovers normally12Stimulates synthesis by the skin itself, with no lipid supply15

Frequently asked questions about ceramides

What are ceramides?
They are lipids made of a sphingoid base and a fatty acid. In the stratum corneum, they form with cholesterol and free fatty acids the lipid matrix that limits water evaporation68. In cosmetics, they appear on labels under INCI names such as CERAMIDE NP, CERAMIDE NG or CERAMIDE AP.
What are the benefits of ceramides for skin?
They support the water barrier and hydration13. A cream with ceramides 1, 3 and 6-II improved hydration, water loss and pH of dry skin in 28 days10, and a cream with ceramide NP, centella and panthenol reduced discomfort in sensitive skin7. No study isolates the effect of the ceramide alone.
Are ceramides good for hair?
A shampoo containing a sphinganine-derived ceramide reduced breakage during brushing of relaxed Afro hair, in a laboratory study by the manufacturer11. It is the only study kept here: evidence on hair remains limited.
What percentage of ceramides should a cream contain?
The literature cited sets no effective dose. A safety assessment assumes 0.5 to 10% ceramide 3 and finds no concern below 1%14. The dose of a product is decided with the formulator, and ceramides must be dissolved with heat to work9.
Should you combine ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids?
That is what work on the barrier suggests: one or two lipids applied alone delay skin recovery in mice, while an equimolar mix allows it normally12. "Barrier" formulas therefore often combine these three families.
Can you use ceramides with niacinamide?
Yes, it is a common pairing, including in our catalog. Niacinamide multiplies ceramide synthesis by 4 to 5.5 in keratinocyte culture15: the two actives act on the barrier through different routes.
Are ceramides safe?
The CIR panel judges them safe under conditions of cosmetic use5 and they are not restricted in the EU1. For sensitive skin, as with any skincare product, a tolerance test of the final formula remains advisable.
Can you manufacture a ceramide cream for my brand?
Yes. Our ISO 22716 certified lab offers 11 ceramide formulas (serums, creams, cleansers, body and hair care) that you can customize, or a custom formula. Samples are free.

Sources

Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 2, 2026.

  1. European Commission. CosIng, CERAMIDE NP entry (CAS 34354-88-6 / 100403-19-8, EC 309-560-3). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
  2. European Commission. CosIng, CERAMIDE NG entry (CAS 2304-80-5, EC -). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
  3. European Commission. CosIng, CERAMIDE AP entry (CAS 100403-19-8, EC 309-560-3). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
  4. European Commission. CosIng, CERAMIDE EOP entry (CAS -, EC -). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
  5. Burnett CL, Boyer IJ, Bergfeld WF, et al. Safety Assessment of Ceramides as Used in Cosmetics Int J Toxicol. 2020;39(3 Suppl):5S-25S.. doi:10.1177/1091581820958692
  6. Bouwstra JA, Nădăban A, Bras W, et al. The skin barrier: an extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization Prog Lipid Res. 2023;92:101252.. doi:10.1016/j.plipres.2023.101252
  7. Su Z, Zheng Y, Yi J, et al. The effectiveness and safety of a skin care product with Centella asiatica leaf extract, ceramide NP, and panthenol in subjects with sensitive skin: a prospective, observational study J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025;24(7):e70324.. doi:10.1111/jocd.70324
  8. Coderch L, López O, de la Maza A, Parra JL. Ceramides and skin function Am J Clin Dermatol. 2003;4(2):107-129.. doi:10.2165/00128071-200304020-00004
  9. Schild J, Kalvodová A, Zbytovská J, et al. The role of ceramides in skin barrier function and the importance of their correct formulation for skincare applications Int J Cosmet Sci. 2024;46(4):526-543.. doi:10.1111/ics.12972Evonik
  10. Lueangarun S, Tragulplaingam P, Sugkraroek S, Tempark T. The 24-hr, 28-day, and 7-day post-moisturizing efficacy of ceramides 1, 3, 6-II containing moisturizing cream compared with hydrophilic cream on skin dryness and barrier disruption in senile xerosis treatment Dermatol Ther. 2019;32(6):e13090.. doi:10.1111/dth.13090
  11. Bernard BA, Franbourg A, François AM, et al. Ceramide binding to African-American hair fibre correlates with resistance to hair breakage Int J Cosmet Sci. 2002;24(1):1-12.. doi:10.1046/j.0412-5463.2001.00106.xL'Oréal
  12. Man MQ, Feingold KR, Thornfeldt CR, Elias PM. Optimization of physiological lipid mixtures for barrier repair J Invest Dermatol. 1996;106(5):1096-1101.. doi:10.1111/1523-1747.ep12340135
  13. Yong TL, Zaman R, Rehman N, Tan CK. Ceramides and skin health: new insights Exp Dermatol. 2025;34(2):e70042.. doi:10.1111/exd.70042
  14. Choi SM, Lee BM. Safety and risk assessment of ceramide 3 in cosmetic products Food Chem Toxicol. 2015;84:8-17.. doi:10.1016/j.fct.2015.07.012
  15. Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, et al. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol. 2000;143(3):524-531. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.2000.03705.x
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