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Retinol (vitamin A)

Retinol is a form of vitamin A studied in cosmetics for fine lines and skin texture34. Since Regulation (EU) 2024/996, it is limited to 0.3% retinol equivalent in most products and to 0.05% in body lotions, with a mandatory label statement2. It degrades mostly in light8.

Retinol raw material in macro view on a sage green ceramic surface

Retinol at a glance

Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1 and from Regulation (EU) 2024/9962. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.

INCI name
RETINOL
Other names
Vitamin AThe esters RETINYL ACETATE and RETINYL PALMITATE fall under the same regulatory entry2
CAS number
68-26-8CosIng also lists 11103-57-41
EC number
200-683-7CosIng also lists 234-328-21
CosIng function
Skin conditioning"Skin conditioning - miscellaneous" in the European nomenclature1
Appearance
Fat-soluble active, sensitive to lightFormulated in the oil phase; encapsulation is studied to improve its stability68
EU status
Restricted: Annex III, entry 3760.3% retinol equivalent (RE) in rinse-off and leave-on products, 0.05% RE in body lotions2
Mandatory labeling
"Contains Vitamin A. Consider your daily intake before use"For any product containing Retinol, Retinyl Acetate or Retinyl Palmitate2
Timeline
Applicable since November 1, 2025Non-compliant products have no longer been placed on the market since that date, and can no longer be made available from May 1, 20272
Allergen to declare
No
Safety
Safe within the limits set by the SCCSSCCS opinion of October 2022: safe up to 0.05% RE in body lotions and 0.3% RE in other products2

What the research says

Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.

Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory

Facial skinSkincare

Fine lines and spots comparable to those with bakuchiol

Clinical trial
0.5% retinol, once a day12 weeks44 participantsDouble-blind, versus 0.5% bakuchiol

Retinol reduces wrinkle surface and hyperpigmentation, with no significant difference from bakuchiol. Retinol users report more peeling and tingling. The concentration tested is above the current European limit4.

0.3% or 1%: same effect on skin, better tolerance at 0.3%

Clinical trial
0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol12 days under occlusion (5 volunteers), then 6 weeks (218 participants)Biopsies and tolerance monitoring

Epidermal thickness increases with concentration. At 0.3% and 1%, keratinocyte proliferation and fibrillin microfibril deposition are comparable, with no sign of local inflammation. With gradual daily use, 0.3% causes fewer and milder adverse effects than 1%5.

From retinol to retinoic acid in skin

Laboratory
Reconstructed human skin modelRetinol, retinal, retinyl palmitate

Retinol is deposited in the skin model and converted there into retinoic acid, which retinyl palmitate did not do. The measured conversion is low: 0.68 µM after 2 hours9.

BodyBodycare

Fine lines on the arms of aged skin

Clinical trial
0.4% lotion24 weeks36 people, mean age 87Randomized, arm versus arm, versus vehicle

Fine lines score down by 1.64 points with retinol versus 0.08 with the vehicle (p < 0.001). Expression of glycosaminoglycans and procollagen I increases in biopsies from a subgroup. Concentration above the current European limits3.

Reviews and stabilityFormulation

Retinoids recommended for fine lines, spots and pores

Expert consensus
2025 Delphi consensus62 dermatologists43 centers

Retinoids are among the 23 ingredients recommended by the panel, notably for fine lines, brown spots, enlarged pores and oily skin. The abstract refers to the retinoid class, without singling out retinol10.

Less irritating than the strongest retinoids

Review
2 literature reviews2006

Retinol and retinal are markedly less irritating than tretinoin and tazarotene, at the price of a more modest efficacy for retinol; retinal appears to be the most effective of the cosmetic retinoids67.

A fragile active: up to 80% loss in 6 months

Laboratory
12 commercial products6 months at 25 and 40 °CHPLC analysis

Retinoids lose 0 to 80% of their content in 6 months at 25 °C, and 40 to 100% at 40 °C. Light degrades more than heat. Stability depends on the formula, and some products contain less than the declared amount8.

This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Several of the clinical trials cited were run or funded by cosmetics companies; this is indicated in the sources. Several trials tested concentrations above the current European limit: this is stated in each result.

Concentrations used in studies

The colored zone marks the European limits: 0.05% RE in body lotions and 0.3% RE in other products. Earlier trials tested 0.4%, 0.5% and 1%, above these limits. The final concentration of a formula is set with the formulator, within the framework of Regulation (EU) 2024/996.

Which products use retinol?

Our white label catalog includes 2 formulas with retinol: the key active in 2 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).

2Face

Key active in the encapsulated retinol serum and the night cream, two catalog formulas to customize within the limits of the European regulation.

In our formulas, it is most often paired with

Glycolic acid 1Lactobionic acid 1

Retinol, niacinamide, vitamin C or hyaluronic acid?

Four actives often compared when choosing the hero of a range. They do not exclude each other and are often combined in the same routine.

RetinolNiacinamideVitamin CHyaluronic acid
Main roleSkin texture, fine linesBarrier, skin tone, shineRadiance, antioxidant protectionSurface hydration
WhenOften in the eveningMorning and eveningOften in the morningMorning and evening
In the formulaDegrades mostly in light, up to 80% loss in 6 months in commercial products8Stable, easy to formulate in the water phaseOxidizes with air and light, needs protective packagingStable, molecular weight changes the feel
EU regulationLimited to 0.3% RE, 0.05% RE in body lotion, mandatory statement2No restrictionNo restriction for ascorbic acidNo restriction
Who it suitsExperienced users, gradual introductionGeneral public, sensitive skin includedDull skinAll skin types

Frequently asked questions about retinol

What is retinol?
It is a fat-soluble form of vitamin A, used in cosmetics for skin texture and the look of fine lines. In a reconstructed skin model, it is partly converted into retinoic acid9; cosmetic retinol remains less irritating than the strongest retinoids6.
What percentage of retinol is allowed in cosmetics?
Since Regulation (EU) 2024/996, retinol is limited to 0.3% retinol equivalent in rinse-off and leave-on products, and to 0.05% RE in body lotions. These limits follow the 2022 SCCS opinion2. They also apply to the esters, retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate.
What statement must appear on the label?
Any product containing retinol or one of its esters must carry the statement "Contains Vitamin A. Consider your daily intake before use". Non-compliant products have no longer been placed on the European market since November 1, 20252.
What are the benefits of retinol for skin?
The clinical trials cited cover fine lines, skin texture and spots: fine lines down on aged skin after 24 weeks at 0.4%3, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation reduced after 12 weeks at 0.5%4. These concentrations are above the current European limit.
What side effects can retinol have?
In the trial against bakuchiol, retinol users report more peeling and tingling4. At 0.3%, adverse effects are fewer and milder than at 1%, with a gradual build-up5. Hence the value of introducing the product gradually.
Retinol and pregnancy: what do the rules say?
The mandatory statement invites you to take your daily vitamin A intake into account, because diet and supplements add to the cosmetic intake2. During pregnancy, as with any skincare product, a healthcare professional's advice remains the rule.
Retinol: morning or night?
The literature cited does not set a time of day. Retinol degrades mostly in light8: hence the importance of protective packaging, whatever the time of application.
Can you manufacture a retinol serum for my brand?
Yes. Our ISO 22716 certified lab offers 2 retinol formulas (serum, night cream) that you can customize, or a custom formula. The concentration is set within the limit of Regulation (EU) 2024/996, and the label carries the mandatory statement. Samples are free.

Sources

Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 2, 2026.

  1. European Commission. CosIng, entry RETINOL (CAS 68-26-8 / 11103-57-4, EC 200-683-7 / 234-328-2). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
  2. Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996 of 3 April 2024 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 (vitamin A, alpha-arbutin, arbutin and other substances) : Annex III, entry 376; SCCS opinion SCCS/1639/21. eur-lex.europa.eu
  3. Kafi R, Kwak HS, Schumacher WE, et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol. 2007;143(5):606-612. doi:10.1001/archderm.143.5.606
  4. Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol. 2019;180(2):289-296. doi:10.1111/bjd.16918
  5. Mellody KT, Bradley EJ, Mambwe B, et al. Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022;44(6):625-635. doi:10.1111/ics.12799No7 Beauty Company (Walgreens Boots Alliance)
  6. Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-348. doi:10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327
  7. Sorg O, Antille C, Kaya G, Saurat JH. Retinoids in cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther. 2006;19(5):289-296. doi:10.1111/j.1529-8019.2006.00086.x
  8. Temova Rakuša Ž, Škufca P, Kristl A, Roškar R. Retinoid stability and degradation kinetics in commercial cosmetic products. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021;20(7):2350-2358. doi:10.1111/jocd.13852
  9. Kim JE, Lee DY, Choi J, et al. Spectral and mass characterization of kinetic conversion from retinoids to retinoic acid in an in vitro 3-D human skin equivalent model. Eur J Pharm Sci. 2024;198:106784. doi:10.1016/j.ejps.2024.106784AMOREPACIFIC
  10. Alvarez GV, Kang BY, Richmond AM, et al. Skincare ingredients recommended by cosmetic dermatologists: a Delphi consensus study. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2025;93(6):1509-1525. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2025.04.021
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