Fine lines and spots comparable to those with bakuchiol
Clinical trial0.5% retinol, once a day12 weeks44 participantsDouble-blind, versus 0.5% bakuchiol
Retinol reduces wrinkle surface and hyperpigmentation, with no significant difference from bakuchiol. Retinol users report more peeling and tingling. The concentration tested is above the current European limit4.
0.3% or 1%: same effect on skin, better tolerance at 0.3%
Clinical trial0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol12 days under occlusion (5 volunteers), then 6 weeks (218 participants)Biopsies and tolerance monitoring
Epidermal thickness increases with concentration. At 0.3% and 1%, keratinocyte proliferation and fibrillin microfibril deposition are comparable, with no sign of local inflammation. With gradual daily use, 0.3% causes fewer and milder adverse effects than 1%5.
From retinol to retinoic acid in skin
LaboratoryReconstructed human skin modelRetinol, retinal, retinyl palmitate
Retinol is deposited in the skin model and converted there into retinoic acid, which retinyl palmitate did not do. The measured conversion is low: 0.68 µM after 2 hours9.