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Mandelic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) with a benzene ring11, used to exfoliate and smooth skin texture. CosIng declares only an antimicrobial function for it1. An uncontrolled trial on 24 people measures a 25.4% increase in eye contour elasticity over 4 weeks8. No European numerical reference exists.
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Lower eyelid elasticity increases by 25.4% and firmness by 23.8%. The authors report good tolerance. With no control group, a formula specific to the authors and a concentration not given in the abstract, the result remains indicative8.
At pH 4.5, the complex exfoliates better than mandelic acid alone on pig skin. The evaluation on volunteers notes an improvement in skin texture and no adverse effects. The abstract gives no values9.
The base with mandelic acid alone or combined with litsea cubeba oil gets the best sensory analysis and a compliant preservation test. Hydration, water loss and pH were monitored; the abstract gives no values10.
The review describes mandelic acid as an arylalkyl AHA whose antimicrobial activity depends on its lipophilicity and pro-oxidant power. It explains the antimicrobial function declared in CosIng111.
A comparison of six acids (glycolic, lactic in two forms, citric, hydroxybutyric, malic) puts L(+) lactic and glycolic first. Mandelic acid was not part of it: it cannot be ranked against them5.
As a precaution, the committee retains 4% and pH 3.8 or higher for glycolic acid, 2.5% and pH 5 or higher for lactic acid3. A 2024 review notes that optimal AHA concentrations remain to be specified7. For mandelic acid, no benchmark is published.
The review stresses the safety of prolonged use on sun-exposed skin6. The US agency recommends sun protection while using an AHA product4.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. For mandelic acid, cosmetic studies are few; trials conducted in a medical setting are not included. One cited study has an industry affiliation; this is noted in the sources.
Our white label catalog includes 1 formula with mandelic acid, always as a supporting ingredient. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
Supporting active in a catalog face cream, combined with glycolic and salicylic acids.
In our formulas, it is most often paired with
Glycolic acid 1Salicylic acid 1Allantoin 1Niacinamide 1Panthenol 1Four acids often compared for exfoliating or smoothing skin texture. They do not exclude each other and are combined in several of our formulas.
| Mandelic acid | Glycolic acid | Lactic acid | Salicylic acid | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Family | AHA with a benzene ring11 | AHA, see the glycolic acid entry | AHA, see the lactic acid entry | BHA (common name), see the entry |
| Studied effect | Eye contour elasticity, in an uncontrolled trial8 | See the glycolic acid entry | Smoothing, comfort for dry skin (see the entry) | See the salicylic acid entry |
| EU regulation | No restriction, no numerical benchmark23 | No restriction. Benchmark: 4%, pH 3.8 or higher3 | No restriction. Benchmark: 2.5%, pH 5 or higher3 | Restricted: 0.5 to 3% depending on the product |
| Tolerance | Good in the cited trial, with no comparison to other AHAs8 | More marked stinging than L-lactic above 1.5 M5 | Less stinging than glycolic above 1.5 M, L form5 | Depends on concentration and formula |
| Sun | Sun protection recommended with AHAs4 | Sun protection recommended with AHAs4 | Sun protection recommended with AHAs4 | Sun protection recommended with BHAs |
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
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