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Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that is both an exfoliant3 and a humectant1. In the trials cited, it improves skin smoothness and firmness at 12%4 and the comfort of dry skin at 15%7. The CIR panel allows 10% at most and a pH of 3.5 or higher3.
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Data from the European Commission's CosIng database1. No maximum concentration is listed in the annexes of the regulation; the guidelines come from the European scientific committee2 and the CIR panel3. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
At 12%, firmness and the thickness of the epidermis and dermis increase, and smoothness and the look of wrinkles improve. At 5%, surface and epidermis changes are comparable, with no measured effect on the dermis4.
At equal concentration, the L and D forms of lactic acid and glycolic acid are the most effective on hydration and wrinkles. L-lactic acid draws the fewest complaints. Above 1.5 M, stinging is stronger with glycolic acid and the D form than with the L form5.
In the lab, ceramide production by keratinocytes increases by 300% with L-lactic acid, against 100% with the D form. On skin, stratum corneum ceramides increase by 48% with L-lactic acid and by 25% with the D,L mix; the D form has no effect. The barrier improves with the L and D,L forms6.
Hydration and desquamation improved from day 2 and at day 14 (−2.51 then −3.07 points on the D-Squame score, p < 0.0001). The investigator's and the participants' assessments point the same way, with no adverse effect. The lotion also contains ceramides: lactic acid alone is not isolated7.
As a precaution, the committee proposed 2.5% lactic acid at most and a pH of 5 or higher, with a warning on UV exposure. In 2004 it noted that AHA application increases UV-induced damage and that no no-effect threshold could be defined2.
A 2024 review reports that glycolic and lactic acids improve skin texture and radiance, while stressing that the optimal concentration remains to be defined8. According to a 2018 review, the effect of AHAs on sun damage depends on the concentration9. Studies on prolonged use on sun-exposed skin remain very few10.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Most trials on lactic acid are old (1990s) or run by manufacturers; this is indicated in the sources. Recent, independent evidence remains limited.
The trials cited test lactic acid between 5% and 15%47. The safety guidelines are lower: 2.5% with a pH of 5 or higher (European scientific committee, as a precaution)2, 10% with a pH of 3.5 or higher (CIR panel)3. The final concentration is set with the formulator, along with pH and sun protection.
Our white label catalog includes 7 formulas with lactic acid: the key active in 2 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
Key active in AHA exfoliants and cleansing gels, supporting active in cleansers, washing creams and serums.
Supporting active in one washing product and one body cream of the catalog.
In our formulas, it is most often paired with
Niacinamide 4Panthenol 4Sweet almond oil 3Salicylic acid 2Four actives often compared for exfoliating or smoothing skin texture. They do not exclude each other and are combined in several of our formulas.
| Lactic acid | Glycolic acid | Salicylic acid | Niacinamide | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Family | AHA3 | AHA3 | BHA (common name)12 | Vitamin B3, not an acid |
| Effect studied | Smoothing, firmness, comfort of dry skin47 | Hydration and wrinkles, comparable to lactic acid5 | See the salicylic acid page | See the niacinamide page |
| EU regulation | No restriction in the annexes1. Guideline: 2.5%, pH 5 or higher2 | No restriction in the annexes. Guideline: 4%, pH 3.8 or higher2 | Restricted: 0.5 to 3% depending on the product11 | No restriction |
| Tolerance | Less stinging than glycolic acid above 1.5 M, for the L form5 | Stronger stinging than L-lactic acid above 1.5 M5 | Depends on concentration and formula | See the niacinamide page |
| Sun | Sun protection recommended with AHAs3 | Increased UV sensitivity during use3 | Sun protection recommended with BHAs12 | Not photosensitizing |
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 2, 2026.
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