Wrinkles and dark spots: a result comparable to 0.5% retinol
Clinical trialWrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation decreased in both groups, with no statistical difference between them. The retinol group reported more peeling and stinging2.
Bakuchiol: a retinol alternative?
Bakuchiol is a terpenoid phenol from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, often presented as a retinol alternative4. A 12-week randomized trial (44 volunteers) judges it comparable to 0.5% retinol on wrinkles and dark spots, with less peeling2. The other trials are few and often uncontrolled67.
Bakuchiol at a glance
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1 and Regulation (EC) 1223/200910. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
- INCI name
- BAKUCHIOL
- Chemical name
- Terpenoid phenol (meroterpene)4-[(1E,3S)-3,7-dimethyl-3-vinylocta-1,6-dien-1-yl]phenol in CosIng1
- CAS number
- 10309-37-2
- EC number
- Not assigned in CosIngThe CosIng entry carries no EC number1
- Formula
- C₁₈H₂₄OMolar mass 256.4 g/mol
- CosIng functions
- Antimicrobial, antioxidant, skin conditioning (emollient)"Antimicrobial", "Antioxidant" and "Skin conditioning - emollient"1
- EU status
- No restrictionAbsent from Annexes II to VI of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 as consolidated on May 1, 202510; no annex in CosIng1. It is not covered by the retinol limit9
What the research says
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory
Facial skinSkincare
Sensitive skin: well tolerated, skin more hydrated
Clinical trialVisual and tactile smoothness, radiance and overall appearance improved (p < 0.001), and cheek water content rose by 16% on corneometry. The effect of bakuchiol alone is not isolated: complete products are tested4.
Gene expression close to that of retinol
LaboratoryThe gene expression profiles of bakuchiol and retinol are similar, with more collagens I, III and IV in the laboratory. The associated clinical case study reports fewer wrinkles and dark spots, without the usual adverse effects of retinol. Publication by a manufacturer3.
Review perspectiveDermatology
Fifteen trials, little rigor
ReviewTwelve trials are open-label and uncontrolled, ten test a combination containing bakuchiol, four do not state the dose. The authors speak of a high risk of bias and judge a meta-analysis impossible6.
Grade C recommendation for anti-aging
ReviewRetinol and vitamin C earn grade A. Bakuchiol receives grade C, with few randomized trials and a lack of long-term data7.
Effects described mostly in the laboratory
ReviewThe review describes effects on photoaging and dark spots, then estimates that further studies are needed5.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. For bakuchiol, trials are few, often small, without a control group and run with combinations of actives. No study on the body or hair was retained.
Concentrations used in studies
The only randomized comparative trial cited tests bakuchiol at 0.5%2. The other publications do not always state the dose6. No cosmetic concentration limit exists in the EU for this ingredient10: the dose is set with the formulator.
0.5%Wrinkles and dark spots, versus 0.5% retinol2
0%0.511.52%
Which products can use bakuchiol?
No formula in our white label catalog features bakuchiol yet. Our formulation lab can add it to a custom formula or to a catalog formula. Its common uses:
Face
Serums, oils and creams for mature or sensitive skin, positioned as an alternative to retinol.
Bakuchiol, retinol, niacinamide or vitamin C?
Retinol is the reference bakuchiol is compared with. Niacinamide and vitamin C are other actives in anti-aging ranges.
| Bakuchiol | Retinol | Niacinamide | Vitamin C | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main role | Wrinkles and dark spots, limited evidence57 | Skin texture, fine lines | Barrier, complexion, shine | Radiance, antioxidant protection |
| Level of evidence | Grade C, small or uncontrolled trials67 | Grade A7 | Many clinical trials | Grade A7 |
| Tolerance | Less peeling and stinging than retinol in one trial2 | Peeling and stinging reported2 | Well tolerated, occasional transient redness | Depends on the form and the formula |
| EU regulation | No restriction10 | 0.3% RE, 0.05% RE in body lotion, "vitamin A" mention mandatory9 | No restriction | No restriction for ascorbic acid |
| Best for | Ranges without the "vitamin A" mention required for retinol9 | Experienced users, gradual introduction | General public, sensitive skin included | Dull skin |
Frequently asked questions about bakuchiol
What is bakuchiol?
Is bakuchiol a plant-based retinol?
No. It has no structural resemblance to retinoids and is not derived from vitamin A. In the laboratory, it modulates gene expression in a way close to retinol3, which explains the term "alternative". It does not mean proven equivalence.
Bakuchiol vs retinol: which should you choose?
What percentage of bakuchiol should you use?
Is bakuchiol subject to the European retinol limit?
Is bakuchiol safe?
Morning or night?
In the randomized trial, bakuchiol was applied twice a day2. The sources cited say nothing about photosensitization: they do not allow a conclusion on a time of use.
Can you formulate a bakuchiol serum for my brand?
Yes, on request. Our ISO 22716 certified lab can add it to a customized catalog formula or to a custom formula. No product in our public catalog features it as the key active today. Free samples are included.
- Menopause skin: formulating a compliant skincare range in 2026Regulated retinol, bakuchiol and compliant claims
- Top 10 trending cosmetic ingredients in 2026Bakuchiol among the actives to add to a white label range
- Waterless Beauty 2026: premium anhydrous formulationsOily concentrates with bakuchiol
- Beauty trends 2027: 10 key shifts for your brandCapped retinol and other regulatory deadlines
Sources
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng, entry BAKUCHIOL (CAS 10309-37-2, no EC number). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
- Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol. 2019;180(2):289-296. doi:10.1111/bjd.16918
- Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014;36(3):221-230. doi:10.1111/ics.12117Sytheon Ltd. (manufacturer)
- Draelos ZD, Gunt H, Zeichner J, Levy S. Clinical evaluation of a nature-based bakuchiol anti-aging moisturizer for sensitive skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(12):1181-1183. doi:10.36849/JDD.2020.5522
- Puyana C, Chandan N, Tsoukas M. Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: systematic review of the literature. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022;21(12):6636-6643. doi:10.1111/jocd.15420
- Fanning JE, McGee SA, Ibrahim OI. Human clinical trials using topical bakuchiol formulations for the treatment of skin disorders: a systematic review. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(4):239-243. doi:10.36849/JDD.7763
- Lau M, Mineroff Gollogly J, Wang JY, Jagdeo J. Cosmeceuticals for antiaging: a systematic review of safety and efficacy. Arch Dermatol Res. 2024;316(5):173. doi:10.1007/s00403-024-02908-2
- Malinauskiene L, Linauskiene K, Černiauskas K, Chomičiene A. Bakuchiol: a new allergen in cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis. 2019;80(6):398-399. doi:10.1111/cod.13211
- Raison-Peyron N, Dereure O. A new case of contact dermatitis to bakuchiol in a cosmetic cream. Contact Dermatitis. 2020;82(1):61-62. doi:10.1111/cod.13387
- Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996 of 3 April 2024 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 (vitamin A, alpha-arbutin, arbutin and other substances). eur-lex.europa.eu
- Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products, version consolidated on May 1, 2025: Annexes II to VI checked for bakuchiol, no entry. eur-lex.europa.eu
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