An effect on pigmentation described in the laboratory
ReviewAzelaic acid inhibits tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin production. This effect on melanocytes is the main one exploited for dark spots5.
Azelaic acid in cosmetics
Azelaic acid is a natural dicarboxylic acid. It inhibits tyrosinase in the laboratory5 and is among the ingredients recommended by a consensus of dermatologists for blemish-prone skin and dark spots3. But most clinical trials cover drug products at 15-20%6: this page keeps only what is relevant to cosmetics.
Azelaic acid at a glance
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1 and Regulation (EC) 1223/20092. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
- INCI name
- AZELAIC ACIDAzelates (e.g. LYSINE AZELATE) and copolymers have their own CosIng entries1
- Other names
- Nonanedioic acidNonanedioic acid in CosIng1
- CAS number
- 123-99-9
- EC number
- 204-669-1
- Formula
- C₉H₁₆O₄Saturated dicarboxylic acid5, molar mass 188.22 g/mol
- CosIng functions
- Buffering, fragrance"Buffering" and "Fragrance": CosIng lists no skincare function for this substance1
- Solubility
- Low in waterIt limits diffusion into the skin: performance depends strongly on the vehicle (liposomes, nanocarriers, eutectic solvents)6
- EU status
- No cosmetic restrictionAbsent from Annexes II to VI of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 as consolidated on May 1, 20252. No annex listed in CosIng1
- Allergen to declare
- Not listedAbsent from the consolidated Annex III2
What the research says
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory
Facial skinSkincare
Pores and skin surface
ReviewThe review describes an anti-keratinizing effect, which limits pore blockage, and antibacterial activity against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria. Review by a pharmaceutical company4.
Expert viewDermatology
Recommended for blemish-prone skin and dark spots
Expert consensusAzelaic acid is among the 23 cosmetic ingredients recommended by the panel for blemish-prone skin and dark spots3.
A well-documented active in humans for blemish-prone skin
ReviewAccording to this review of cosmetics for blemish-prone skin, human trials mainly support retinol, benzoyl peroxide and azelaic acid. It notes that most studies cover mild to moderate cases8.
Clinical trials use 15 to 20%
ReviewThe reported improvements concern 15-20% products assessed for medical indications, with mild, short-lived local irritation. They do not transfer as is to a cosmetic67.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Azelaic acid is mostly studied as a drug, at 15-20%, for medical indications. Those results are not reproduced here: only results useful to cosmetics are cited, and no low-dose cosmetic trial was retained.
Which products can use azelaic acid?
No formula in our white label catalog features azelaic acid yet. Our formulation lab can add it to a custom formula or to a catalog formula. Its common uses:
Face
Serums and creams for blemish-prone skin or dark spots, often paired with niacinamide in routines.
Azelaic acid, niacinamide, kojic acid or alpha-arbutin?
Four actives often compared for complexion care. Their regulatory status differs markedly in the EU.
| Azelaic acid | Niacinamide | Kojic acid | Alpha-arbutin | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main role | Pigmentation (tyrosinase) and pores, in the laboratory45 | Barrier, complexion, shine | Skin lightening | Skin lightening |
| Cosmetic evidence | Expert consensus, few cosmetic trials3 | Many clinical trials | See its page | See its page |
| EU regulation | No cosmetic restriction2 | No restriction | Annex III no. 375, 1% maximum | Annex III no. 377, 2% in face cream |
| Watch point | Low solubility, performance tied to the vehicle6 | Stable in the water phase | EU limit to respect | Hydroquinone limited to traces |
Frequently asked questions about azelaic acid
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid: cosmetic or drug?
The cosmetics regulation defines a product by its purpose: cleaning, perfuming, changing appearance, protecting, keeping in good condition or correcting body odors2. The 15-20% formulations studied in clinical trials are studied for medical indications6. Reviews also list cosmetic-status and drug-status products containing 5 to 20% azelaic acid5. We therefore set no threshold here: qualification depends on the composition, the claim and the regulatory file of the product.
What percentage of azelaic acid should you choose?
Azelaic acid or niacinamide: can you combine them?
The dermatologist panel recommends azelaic acid for blemish-prone skin and dark spots, and niacinamide for redness and dark spots3. They are two common actives in complexion routines. The sources cited do not assess their combination in a single formula: stability and tolerance are checked in the laboratory.
Does azelaic acid irritate the skin?
Morning or night?
The sources cited give no application time for azelaic acid and do not describe it as photosensitizing. They do not allow a conclusion.
Can you formulate an azelaic acid product for my brand?
Yes, on request. Our ISO 22716 certified lab can add it to a customized catalog formula or to a custom formula. It formulates cosmetics: concentration and claims are defined together, without borrowing those of a drug. No product in our public catalog features it as the key active today. Free samples are included.
- Tranexamic acid in skincare: role, doses and formulationA complexion active often paired with azelaic acid
- Peri-procedural skincare: create a dermocosmetic rangeComplexion care and compliant claims
- EU cosmetics regulation: meeting the new requirementsWhat sets a cosmetic apart from another type of product
Sources
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng, entry AZELAIC ACID (CAS 123-99-9, EC 204-669-1). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
- Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products, version consolidated on May 1, 2025: Article 2(1)(a) (definition of a cosmetic product), Annexes II to VI checked for azelaic acid, no entry. eur-lex.europa.eu
- Alvarez GV, Kang BY, Richmond AM, et al. Skincare ingredients recommended by cosmetic dermatologists: a Delphi consensus study. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2025;93(6):1509-1525. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2025.04.021
- Sieber MA, Hegel JK. Azelaic acid: properties and mode of action. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(Suppl 1):9-17. doi:10.1159/000354888Bayer Pharma AG
- Sauer N, Oślizło M, Brzostek M, et al. The multiple uses of azelaic acid in dermatology: mechanism of action, preparations, and potential therapeutic applications. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2023;40(6):716-724. doi:10.5114/ada.2023.133955
- Petrovici AG, Spennato M, Bîtcan I, et al. A comprehensive review of azelaic acid pharmacological properties, clinical applications, and innovative topical formulations. Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2025;18(9):1273. doi:10.3390/ph18091273
- Fitton A, Goa KL. Azelaic acid: a review of its pharmacological properties and therapeutic efficacy in acne and hyperpigmentary skin disorders. Drugs. 1991;41(5):780-798. doi:10.2165/00003495-199141050-00007
- Searle TN, Al-Niaimi F, Ali FR. Cosmeceuticals in acne vulgaris: from mechanism of action to clinical application. Skin Health Dis. 2026;6(2):77-89. doi:10.1093/skinhd/vzaf104
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