Tranexamic acid skincare uses a synthetic lysine derivative in products that aim for a more even-looking skin tone and a softer look of dark spots. Listed under the INCI name Tranexamic Acid, it is water-soluble, mostly formulated in serums, and often dosed at 2 to 5% in published topical trials.
Tranexamic acid in skincare: key takeaways
- Definition: a synthetic molecule close to lysine, first known as an antifibrinolytic drug, and also registered as a cosmetic ingredient in the European CosIng database.
- Cosmetic role: helps even the look of skin tone and soften the look of dark spots, with no therapeutic promise.
- Studied dosages: 2 to 5% in most topical trials listed by recent reviews.
- Point of caution: published trials mostly belong to dermatology (oral route, injections, medical protocols) and do not translate into a cosmetic claim.
What is tranexamic acid?
Tranexamic acid is a synthetic analog of lysine, an amino acid. A review published in 2020 in Clinical and Molecular Allergy describes it as “a synthetic lysine analog well known as an antifibrinolytic agent”. In medicine, it is used to limit certain types of bleeding. This pharmaceutical origin is why the question of claims must be handled with rigor.
An antifibrinolytic agent is a substance that slows the breakdown of fibrin, the protein that stabilizes a blood clot. This role has nothing cosmetic about it: what interests formulators is a mechanism linked to plasmin. Plasmin is an enzyme derived from plasminogen, known for dissolving clots, which also acts in the skin.
Driven by demand for skin tone care, the molecule is found in cosmetic serums and day creams, as our selection of trending ingredients for 2026 shows.
What is the INCI name and regulatory status of tranexamic acid?
The INCI name of tranexamic acid is Tranexamic Acid (CAS 1197-18-8). The European CosIng database lists it (record 80291) with the functions “astringent” and “skin conditioning”, with no entry in the annexes of banned or restricted substances of Regulation (EC) no. 1223/2009 and no maximum concentration set. To find the INCI name of other raw materials, see our ingredient glossary.
CosIng is the European Commission database that lists cosmetic ingredients and their restrictions; it is informative, and only the safety assessment of the finished product is authoritative.
On the regulatory side, the key point is the boundary between cosmetic and medicine. Regulation (EC) no. 1223/2009 defines a cosmetic product by its purpose: cleaning, perfuming, changing the appearance, protecting or keeping the skin in good condition. A product that claims an action on a skin condition falls outside this framework: a tranexamic acid serum can therefore claim a more even-looking skin tone, but not an action on a pigmentation disorder.
In Morocco, placing a cosmetic on the market goes through AMMPS: the details are in our AMMPS registration guide.
How does tranexamic acid act on the look of dark spots?
According to published hypotheses, tranexamic acid would limit the activation of plasmin in the epidermis, a signal that takes part in melanin production. A literature review published in 2026 in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology states that it reduces the binding of plasminogen to keratinocytes and limits UV-induced plasmin activation.
In the skin, plasmin stimulates the release of mediators that activate melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells. According to this hypothesis, the molecule would act upstream of pigmentation, which sets it apart from actives that work on tyrosinase or on exfoliation.
The mechanism is a research topic, not something to claim: a cosmetic claim is limited to appearance (“evens the look of skin tone”, “softens the look of dark spots”). Any therapeutic verb must be avoided, as must any mention of a skin disease on the label or product sheet.
What do studies say about topical tranexamic acid?
Studies on this active applied to the skin mostly come from dermatological research, and some concern the oral route or injections, which are strictly medical uses.
A few reference points from published reviews:
- A 2026 review (AlJabr et al.) reports a 12-week double-blind randomized trial in 60 women, which compared a cream with 5% tranexamic acid with a medical-use reference cream (2% hydroquinone): both groups improved in a comparable way. This is a dermatological protocol, not cosmetic proof.
- A 2022 systematic review (Alsharif et al.) pools 9 studies and 196 patients, of which only 3 concern topical use. It notably cites the Desai study: a serum combining 3% tranexamic acid, 1% kojic acid and 5% niacinamide, tested in 55 patients over a 12-week period, in a single-center study without a control group, on post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
This last formula is not a model to copy in Europe: kojic acid is now restricted. Regulation (EU) 2024/996 added it to Annex III of Regulation (EC) no. 1223/2009 (entry 375, mentioned in CosIng), with a maximum concentration of 1% and use limited to face and hand products.
These figures describe supervised clinical protocols: a brand cannot reuse them as proof of its own product’s efficacy. A claim must rest on evidence suited to the finished product, as Regulation (EU) no. 655/2013 on the common criteria for claims requires. To go further, read our article on cosmetic claims in the EU.
What concentration of tranexamic acid in a serum?
In a tranexamic acid serum, the active is most often dosed between 2 and 5%, the range that comes up in the topical trials listed by recent literature. The final dosage depends on the format, the other actives and the conclusions of the safety assessor.
A higher concentration is not necessarily the right choice. It increases raw material cost and can complicate stability or tolerance, with no benefit established by the sources cited.
| Format | Benefit for tranexamic acid | Point of attention |
|---|---|---|
| Aqueous serum or gel | Natural format for a water-soluble active, light texture, the most concentrated dosage in the range | Choose gelling agents compatible with the electrolytes and pH of the formula |
| Cream or emulsion | Combines the active with moisturizing agents in a daily care product | Check emulsion stability with the active in the water phase |
Tranexamic acid and niacinamide: which combinations to favor?
Tranexamic acid pairs well with niacinamide, vitamin C derivatives and azelaic acid, which target other steps of skin tone radiance. The combination with niacinamide is the most common in the formulas studied.
| Combination | Formulation logic | Constraint to anticipate |
|---|---|---|
| Tranexamic acid + niacinamide | Two water-soluble actives, easy to bring together in the same water phase | Monitor color and odor stability during testing |
| With vitamin C | Combines an antioxidant radiance active and an evenness active | Pure ascorbic acid requires a low pH and oxidizes; a more stable derivative simplifies the formula |
| With azelaic acid | Two complementary approaches to an even-looking skin tone | Solubility of azelaic acid and tolerance to monitor |
| With UV filters | UV rays keep the look of dark spots going: sun protection is the foundation of the routine | A product with SPF falls under a different level of testing |
A short formula, with two or three well-dosed actives, stabilizes more easily and is easier to justify to the safety assessor. The same reasoning applies to other recent actives, such as PDRN in cosmetics or exosomes.
How do you recognize a tranexamic acid serum?
To recognize a tranexamic acid serum, look for Tranexamic Acid in the ingredient list printed on the packaging. A few pointers for reading the label:
- Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration: its position gives an indication, not a precise dosage.
- The percentage of the active is not mandatory on the label; a brand may display it without being required to.
- Daily sun protection remains essential.
- A spot that persists, changes appearance or comes with a skin condition calls for medical advice, not a cosmetic.
- Tranexamic acid in tablets is a medicine, not a cosmetic.
How do you formulate a stable tranexamic acid serum?
To formulate a stable serum, incorporate the molecule in the water phase, set a pH compatible with all ingredients, then validate the whole with stability and packaging compatibility tests. The pH is the measure of the formula’s acidity; it determines its stability and tolerance.
- Write the brief: target audience, texture, desired claims, positioning and selling markets (EU, Morocco, export).
- Choose the dosage and combinations based on the literature and on the regulatory status of each ingredient.
- Set the pH of the formula according to the most demanding active (for example a vitamin C) and skin tolerance.
- Select the preservative system and verify its efficacy with a challenge test.
- Run stability tests at different temperatures, and compatibility tests with the chosen bottle, dropper or pump.
- Build the file: safety assessment, claim evidence, labeling and notification in the target markets.
Stability testing and quality control are described in our article on quality tests for a cosmetic.
The manufacturer’s view
Carmel Cosmetics Labs is a cosmetics laboratory and manufacturer based in Agadir, certified ISO 22716 (cosmetic good manufacturing practice) and ISO 9001. It has supported 500+ brands in 35+ countries, in white label, private label and contract manufacturing, with formulas designed for Regulation (EC) no. 1223/2009 and, for US export, FDA requirements. On an “even skin tone” serum, a few habits make the difference:
- Think claims from the brief. A cosmetic promise set from the start avoids rewriting the label and visuals at the end of the project.
- Do not copy a competitor’s percentage. Displaying “5%” only makes sense if the whole formula is stable, tolerated and justifiable.
- Check every associated ingredient. A secondary active can be restricted, like kojic acid in the EU: status is checked ingredient by ingredient, market by market.
To frame these points before development, a cosmetic specification brief remains the most useful tool, and our regulatory support helps prepare the file. Our dermocosmetics laboratory can develop an exclusive private label formula, or start from an existing base from our catalog of customizable products, in white label with an accessible MOQ. For a first project, our guide on how to create a cosmetic brand details the steps.
Frequently asked questions
How do you read the INCI list of a serum?
The INCI list gives ingredients under their international name, from most to least concentrated. Under Article 19 of Regulation (EC) no. 1223/2009, however, ingredients present at less than 1% may be listed in any order after the others. Nanomaterials are flagged with the word “nano” in brackets.
Can tranexamic acid be combined with vitamin C?
The combination is common in skin tone radiance products, but the reviews cited in this article report no trial evaluating this combination in topical application. The difficulty is mostly technical: pure ascorbic acid requires a low pH and oxidizes easily, whereas some vitamin C derivatives are more stable. Compatibility is validated through stability tests on the complete formula.
Can you use a tranexamic acid serum every day?
In the topical trials listed by the 2026 review, the active is most often applied twice a day, with occasional mild irritation. For a cosmetic product, the frequency of use is set by the manufacturer based on tolerance tests and the safety assessment. Daily sun protection remains recommended as a complement.
Is tranexamic acid suitable for sensitive skin?
Literature reviews report adverse effects in topical application that are mostly mild: irritation, dryness or tingling. The tolerance of a product depends, however, on the complete formula (pH, fragrance, other actives, preservatives). For a range intended for sensitive skin, tolerance tests under dermatological control are recommended.
Conclusion: an active to formulate with rigor
Tranexamic acid is a water-soluble active, heavily studied in dermatology, whose tolerance in a finished product is judged on the complete formula. Its studied dosages range from 2 to 5%, in a frame that is often medical: the success of a cosmetic product depends as much on formula stability as on the accuracy of its claims.
Preparing a tranexamic acid serum or range? Book a free consultation with our laboratory or discover our approach to formulation.