Menthol: cooling effect, TRPM8 and EU rules

Menthol is a monoterpene alcohol, natural (mint) or synthetic5. It gives a cooling sensation by activating TRPM8, the cold receptor4 6. It has no concentration limit in the EU, but it is listed in Annex III (entry 338): it must be declared in the ingredient list above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products2 3.

Mohamed El HjoujiFounder and CEO · Updated November 3, 2026 · Reading time 7 min

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Menthol at a glance

Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1, consolidated Regulation (EC) 1223/20092 and Regulation (EU) 2023/15453. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.

INCI name: MENTHOLCosIng covers menthol, dl-menthol, l-menthol and d-menthol1
Other names: Menthol, DL-menthol, L-mentholCyclohexanol, 5-methyl-2-(1-methylethyl)-; European Pharmacopoeia name: mentholum1
CAS number: 1490-04-6 / 2216-51-5 / 89-78-1 / 15356-70-4Annex III entry 338 cites 15356-60-2 instead of 15356-70-42
EC number: 216-074-4 / 218-690-9 / 201-939-0 / 239-388-3Entry 338 cites 239-387-8 instead of 239-388-32
Formula: C₁₀H₂₀OMolar mass 156.27 g/mol
Origin: Mint or synthesisNatural menthol is isolated from Mentha canadensis. Eight stereoisomers exist, and (−)-menthol is the most sought after5
CosIng functions: Denaturant, fragrance, refreshing, soothing"Denaturant", "Fragrance", "Refreshing" and "Soothing"1
EU status: Named in Annex III, entry 338No maximum concentration: the entry requires declaration in the ingredient list2. Entry added by Regulation (EU) 2023/15453
Allergen to declare: YesAbove 0.001% in a leave-on product and 0.01% in a rinse-off product. Non-compliant products may be placed on the market until July 31, 2026 and made available until July 31, 20283
Safety: No SCCS opinion in CosIngThe CIR panel assessed peppermint oil, of which menthol is a main constituent, and judges it safe with pulegone limited to 1%9

What the research says

Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.

Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory

Skin and cooling sensationSkincare and bodycare

The cold and menthol receptor: TRPM8

Laboratory

Trigeminal sensory neuronsCloning of the CMR1 receptor

Menthol activates a channel of the TRP family, also stimulated by cool to cold temperatures. This receptor is now called TRPM84. A review describes menthol as a selective TRPM8 activator; at high concentration, it can cause painful sensitivity to cold6.

Cooling sensation: more menthol does not cool more

Clinical trial

Gels at 0.5%, 4.6% and 10%10 healthy volunteersRandom order

All three gels lowered skin temperature for at least one hour, with no effect of concentration. The 4.6% gel gave the strongest cold sensation, ahead of 0.5% and 10%. Small sample, ten men7.

90% of subjects feel the cooling, with no irritation

Clinical trial

Menthol 30% in ethanol39 healthy volunteersDouble-blind, crossover

Nine subjects out of ten felt a cooling sensation. No sign of irritation or redness was noted. Menthol also lowered cold pain thresholds. The 30% concentration is an experimental model, very far from a cosmetic product8.

Raw material and formulationFormulation

A terpene that helps other actives penetrate

Review

2013 review

Menthol is one of the most effective terpenes for boosting skin penetration of active ingredients. It is found in toothpastes, confectionery and over-the-counter products for its cooling effect5.

Formulators are warned of this effect

Review

2001 CIR reportPeppermint oil, of which menthol is the main constituent

The panel notes that menthol can increase the penetration of other ingredients. This concerns those whose safety was judged on their low absorption. Isolated cases of irritation or sensitization to the oil are described9.

This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Menthol studies are mostly mechanistic or run on small groups of healthy volunteers. No study on the scalp, hair or lips was retained.

Concentrations used in studies

The trials cited test menthol from 0.5% to 30%. No concentration limit exists for cosmetics in the EU2; the dose is set with the formulator, depending on the desired sensation and tolerance.

0.5%Gel, moderate cooling7

4.6%Gel, strongest cooling7

10%Gel7

30%Experimental model8

0%102030%

Which products use menthol?

Our white label catalog includes 3 formulas with menthol: the key active in 1 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).

1Face

Supporting active in a lip care product for a cooling effect.

Lip balms1

1Body

Key active in the menthol shaving gel from the men's grooming range, cooling effect on shaved skin.

Men's grooming1

Menthol Shaving GelKey active

1Raw materials and more

Paired with fluoride in the catalog toothpaste.

Oral care1

In our formulas, it is most often paired with

Aloe vera 1 Shea butter 1Calcium 1Hydrolyzed collagen 1Cayenne pepper extract 1

Frequently asked questions about menthol

What is menthol?

It is a cyclic monoterpene alcohol with a cooling effect and a minty smell. It is isolated from Mentha canadensis or made by synthesis5. Its INCI name is MENTHOL1.

How does menthol create a cold sensation?

It activates TRPM8, a channel on sensory neurons also stimulated by cool to cold temperatures4 6. The skin is not cooled by the sensation alone: in one trial, the gels also lowered skin temperature for at least one hour7.

Does more menthol mean more cooling?

Not in the ten-volunteer trial: skin temperature did not depend on concentration, and the 4.6% gel gave the strongest sensation, ahead of 0.5% and 10%7. A sample this small does not set a rule.

Is there a menthol limit in the EU?

No, there is no maximum concentration. Menthol is entry 338 of Annex III: its presence must be declared in the ingredient list above 0.001% in a leave-on product and 0.01% in a rinse-off product2 3. Non-compliant products may be placed on the market until July 31, 2026 and made available until July 31, 20283.

Is menthol safe?

The CIR panel judges peppermint oil, rich in menthol, safe with pulegone limited to 1%. It notes that menthol can increase the penetration of other ingredients and that isolated cases of irritation or sensitization exist9. At high concentration, it can cause painful sensitivity to cold6.

Menthol or peppermint essential oil?

Menthol is a pure molecule; peppermint essential oil is a mixture in which menthol and menthone are the main constituents9. Both must be declared: the oil at entry 361, menthol at entry 338.

Can you manufacture a menthol product for my brand?

Yes. Our ISO 22716 certified lab offers 3 formulas containing menthol (shaving gel, toothpaste, lip care) that you can customize, or a custom formula. Samples are free.

Sources

Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.

European Commission. CosIng, entry MENTHOL (CAS 1490-04-6 / 2216-51-5 / 89-78-1 / 15356-70-4; EC 216-074-4 / 218-690-9 / 201-939-0 / 239-388-3). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products, consolidated version of May 1, 2025: Annex III, entry 338 (menthol), added by Regulation (EU) 2023/1545; Annexes II to VI consulted. eur-lex.europa.eu
Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 as regards labelling of fragrance allergens in cosmetic products. eur-lex.europa.eu
McKemy DD, Neuhausser WM, Julius D. Identification of a cold receptor reveals a general role for TRP channels in thermosensation. Nature. 2002;416(6876):52-58. doi:10.1038/nature719
Kamatou GP, Vermaak I, Viljoen AM, Lawrence BM. Menthol: a simple monoterpene with remarkable biological properties. Phytochemistry. 2013;96:15-25. doi:10.1016/j.phytochem.2013.08.005
Pergolizzi JV Jr, Taylor R Jr, LeQuang JA, Raffa RB. The role and mechanism of action of menthol in topical analgesic products. J Clin Pharm Ther. 2018;43(3):313-319. doi:10.1111/jcpt.12679
Lasanen R, Julkunen P, Airaksinen O, Töyräs J. Menthol concentration in topical cold gel does not have significant effect on skin cooling. Skin Res Technol. 2016;22(1):40-45. doi:10.1111/srt.12226
Hatem S, Attal N, Willer JC, Bouhassira D. Psychophysical study of the effects of topical application of menthol in healthy volunteers. Pain. 2006;122(1-2):190-196. doi:10.1016/j.pain.2006.01.026
Nair B (Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel). Final report on the safety assessment of Mentha piperita (peppermint) oil, Mentha piperita (peppermint) leaf extract, Mentha piperita (peppermint) leaf, and Mentha piperita (peppermint) leaf water. Int J Toxicol. 2001;20(Suppl 3):61-73. PMID 11766133

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