A store brand cosmetics manufacturer is the lab producing skincare under a retailer’s or pharmacy group’s brand, to its specifications. Buyers select it based on five proofs: ISO 22716 GMP compliance, quality at least equivalent to the benchmark national brand, capacity and service levels, traceability, then landed price.
Key takeaways
- A retailer private label is a product whose characteristics are defined by the retailer, which also owns the brand; the manufacturer works behind the scenes.
- Store brands account for 35.6% of French consumer-goods sales by value in 2025, but much less in personal care and beauty, especially pharmacies. That is where the growth potential lies.
- Selection generally follows the same path: specifications, tender, comparison with the leading brand, factory audit and contract.
- The first filter is evidence, not price: ISO 22716 GMP, complete regulatory documentation and batch traceability.
- Manufacturing outside France, in Morocco for example, is acceptable if the factory demonstrates equivalent compliance.
What is a cosmetics store brand, and what is its market share?
A cosmetics store brand is a skincare product sold under a retailer-owned brand, with product characteristics defined in its specifications. French law says almost exactly this: Article R.412-47 of the Consumer Code defines a store-brand product as one whose characteristics have been specified by the company retailing it, which owns the brand (summarized in the commentary on CEPC recommendation 22-1).
In pharmacies, ‘own brand’ generally describes skincare launched by a pharmacy group. If the distinction from white label or private label is unclear, our article on white label versus private label defines the terms.
Store brands generated 51 billion euros of revenue in French consumer goods in 2025, a market share of 35.6% by value and around 45.5% by volume, according to an LSA editorial citing NielsenIQ. Personal care and beauty lag behind: Circana data for April 2024, reported by GMS Insiders, placed store brands’ share at just 13%, versus 36% across consumer goods and self-service fresh foods.
The gap is even wider in pharmacies. According to Le Moniteur des pharmacies (March 2025, Iqvia panel), store brands account for only 3 to 5% of non-prescription health-and-beauty revenue, but their revenue grew by nearly 13% in one year, versus 3% for all over-the-counter sales. Prices are 30 to 40% below equivalent national-brand products. Le Figaro reported an 11% annual increase in pharmacy dermocosmetics store-brand sales in May 2026. To understand why consumers choose these products, read our analysis of the rise of retailer private label cosmetics.
How does a retailer select its store brand cosmetics manufacturer?
A retailer selects its store-brand manufacturer in stages: it prepares specifications, consults several contract manufacturers, compares samples with the leading brand, audits the shortlisted factory and signs a contract. The order varies little between retailers.
- Store-brand specifications. Product format, target customer, claims, packaging, natural-origin content, target supplier price and forecast volumes.
- Tender. Several store-brand manufacturers receive specifications and a supplier questionnaire covering certifications, capacity and CSR.
- National-brand benchmarking. Samples compared with the category leader, sometimes through blind testing.
- Technical and regulatory documentation. Qualitative formula, stability, compatibility and safety-report inputs.
- Factory audit. Retailer audit or recognition of an independent certificate: ISO 22716, or IFS HPC depending on the retailer.
- Negotiation and contract. Price, price revisions, forecast volumes, formula ownership, contract duration and exit terms.
- Launch and monitoring. First-batch approval, followed by service-level and complaint monitoring.
France’s Commercial Practices Review Commission (CEPC) recommends that store-brand tender specifications be ‘sufficiently precise’ for manufacturers to assess the scope, operating conditions and volumes involved. To prepare yours, follow our method for writing cosmetics product specifications.
Which criteria matter most when choosing a store-brand supplier?
The main criteria are proven compliance, quality equivalent to the leading brand and supply reliability; price then differentiates suppliers already considered dependable. The store-brand manufacturer is invisible on the shelf: every incident affects the retailer’s reputation.
| Criterion | What the buyer requests | Expected evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Good manufacturing practices | A factory controlling hygiene, premises, testing and batch release | Valid ISO 22716 certificate, audit report |
| Quality management system | Documented processes, corrective actions, management review | ISO 9001 certificate, procedures, indicators |
| Regulatory compliance | Products compliant with the sales market’s requirements | PIF inputs, safety report, INCI list, approved labeling |
| Product quality | Performance at least equivalent to the benchmark brand | Samples, stability, compatibility tests, consumer tests |
| Capacity and service levels | Ability to supply forecast volumes, including promotions | Capacity plan, service history, business continuity plan |
| Traceability | Ability to trace every raw-material batch within each finished batch | Batch numbering system, mock recall exercise |
| Financial strength and CSR | A sustainable, responsible partner | Financial statements, responsible procurement policy, CSR questionnaire |
| Landed price | Competitive total cost, including freight and duties | Price schedule, Incoterm, price revision clause |
GMP (good manufacturing practices) comprises the organizational, hygiene and control rules that support consistent, safe cosmetic production. Article 8 of Regulation (EC) no. 1223/2009 presumes compliance where manufacturing follows harmonized standards published in the Official Journal. The reference standard is ISO 22716:2007. Our guide to ISO 22716 certification, its stages and audits details what buyers examine.
IFS HPC is an audit standard for household and personal care products, applicable to both retailer private labels and manufacturers’ brands, according to IFS. Some retailers require it; others accept ISO 22716 supplemented by their own audit. Ask during the first discussion.
Pharmacy versus mass-market store brands: what changes?
A pharmacy store brand depends on dermatological credibility and pharmacists’ trust; a mass-market store brand depends on volume, price and consistency. Manufacturers are therefore assessed differently.
What distinguishes pharmacy own brands
In pharmacies, own brands are generally run by pharmacy groups. Target segments include growing categories such as dermocosmetics, sensitive-skin care, sunscreen, baby care and products with certified organic raw materials. Buyers expect formulas comparable with dermocosmetics benchmarks, tolerance tests and messaging pharmacists can confidently explain at the counter.
What mass-market retailers expect
Mass-market retailers plan around annual volumes and promotions: service levels, the ability to handle demand peaks and landed prices carry more weight. CEPC also recommends anticipating volume changes and promotions more effectively so manufacturers can organize production.
| Aspect | Pharmacy / health-and-beauty store brand | Mass-market retailer store brand |
|---|---|---|
| Buyer | Pharmacy group or chain | Retailer’s central buying team |
| Positioning | Dermocosmetics, targeted skincare, certified organic raw materials | Personal care and everyday skincare, from entry-level to premium |
| Key evidence | Tolerance, efficacy, dermocosmetics formula | Price, consistency, volumes, GMP |
Can a cosmetics store brand be manufactured outside France, for example in Morocco?
Yes: a store brand sold in Europe can be manufactured outside the EU if the product complies with Regulation (EC) no. 1223/2009 and a Responsible Person established in the EU ensures its compliance. Article 4 states that a distributor becomes the Responsible Person when it places a product on the market under its own name or brand, which is precisely the store-brand model.
Morocco offers two practical advantages. First, the EU-Morocco association agreement, in force since March 1, 2000, established a free trade area, as the European Commission explains; customs treatment still depends on origin rules, to be checked product by product. Second, argan oil, rhassoul clay and rose water give a store-brand range an origin story.
The requirements remain the same as in France. Our article on requirements for exporting cosmetics from Morocco to Europe covers CPNP, the PIF and the Responsible Person. Our cosmetic contract manufacturing guide explains the division of responsibilities between the commissioning company and manufacturer.
What should a store-brand manufacturer’s supplier file contain?
A store-brand supplier file brings together the evidence buyers request before an audit: company identity, certifications, capacity, regulatory documentation and quality. A complete file builds confidence from the initial screening.
- Company overview, production sites and quality organization chart.
- Valid certificates (ISO 22716, ISO 9001 and any other relevant standards) and latest audit reports.
- List of product formats supported and manufacturing and filling capacities.
- Procedures for batch release, nonconformity management and recalls.
- Example regulatory file: PIF inputs, safety report and labeling.
- Raw-material procurement policy, traceability and ingredient origin or organic certificates.
- Commercial terms: Incoterm, price revision terms and an accessible MOQ, as specified in the quote.
The manufacturer’s perspective: advice for a successful store-brand project
A successful store-brand project depends on precise specifications and consistent batches. These are our recommendations based on our work as a cosmetics lab.
- Set the benchmark from the outset. Identify the leading product to match and the comparison criteria; otherwise, every sample reopens the discussion.
- Separate fixed requirements from negotiable ones. Claims, excluded ingredients and packaging first; scent and color next.
- Request evidence before pricing. Certificates and traceability for an actual batch reveal more about a store-brand manufacturer than a price list.
- Clarify formula ownership and what happens when the contract ends, as CEPC recommends.
- Forecast volumes and promotions so production planning can account for them.
Carmel Cosmetics Labs manufactures white label and contract products in Agadir, Morocco, following ISO 22716 GMP and an ISO 9001 quality management system. Our products comply with Regulation (EC) no. 1223/2009, and our establishment is registered with the FDA for exports to the United States. More than 500 brands in over 35 countries have entrusted us with their products, with an accessible MOQ and Moroccan-origin ingredients. Explore our production site in Agadir.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between retailer private label, white label and own brand?
A retailer private label belongs to a distributor that defines the product’s characteristics. White label refers to an existing manufacturer-developed formula sold under your branding. Own brand is the term commonly used for a pharmacy group’s store brand. In all three cases, the manufacturer works behind the scenes and the brand owner appears on the packaging.
Must the manufacturer’s name appear on a store-brand label?
Not necessarily. Article R.412-47 of the French Consumer Code requires the manufacturer’s name and address on a store-brand product’s label if the manufacturer requests it. Cosmetics regulation, however, requires the EU-established Responsible Person to be identified, often the retailer itself.
Must a store-brand manufacturer be IFS HPC certified?
It is not a legal requirement. European law requires good manufacturing practices, with compliance presumed through ISO 22716. IFS HPC is a private standard some retailers require or value in their specifications. Check each tender’s requirements before committing.
Who owns the formula for a store-brand product?
It depends on the contract. The retailer owns the brand; the formula may remain with the manufacturer, be transferred or be licensed. CEPC recommendation 22-1 advises addressing this in writing during negotiations, along with contract termination and any production transfer terms.
Can a pharmacy group launch a focused store-brand range?
Yes. Many groups begin with selected products in a promising segment, such as facial skincare or sunscreen, before expanding. The manufacturer should offer an accessible MOQ and comprehensive regulatory support, since the group becomes the Responsible Person for products sold under its name.
Conclusion: choose a store-brand manufacturer based on evidence
Choosing a cosmetics store-brand manufacturer starts with evidence: ISO 22716 GMP, regulatory documentation, traceability and the ability to maintain quality between batches. Price differentiates suppliers only after they have been assessed as reliable.
Preparing a tender or own-brand range? Discuss your specifications with our manufacturing team during a Free consultation.