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Cosmetic peptides are short chains of amino acids, grouped into signal peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter inhibitors and enzyme inhibitors1. The INCI names cited here have no restriction in the EU11. Skin trials are short and often industry-run; a meta-analysis of 19 trials finds a modest effect on wrinkles, mostly driven by oral peptides2.
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database111213141516. "Peptides" is a family: each peptide has its own INCI name. Copy the one used in our formulas in one click for your files.
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Significant improvement in wrinkles and fine lines versus placebo, by instrumental image analysis and by expert grading. The peptide is well tolerated. Trial run by a manufacturer3.
Overall anti-wrinkle efficacy of 48.9% in the peptide group, versus 0% under placebo. Roughness measured on silicone replicas drops under the peptide, not under placebo4.
Facial dark spots fade after 6 weeks with the combination, more than with the peptide or the vitamin C derivative alone. In 27 Japanese women, the combination reduces pigmentation by 26% and 18% depending on the SCINEXA score. In the lab, the peptide limits the expression of pigmentation genes after UVB5.
Roughness down 8 to 9%, redness reduced by 9% and skin tone evenness up 8%. The peptide's own effect is not separated from that of the serum's antioxidants. Authors are consultants for the serum brand6.
The GHK tripeptide forms a complex with copper. In cosmetics, the review reports better skin elasticity, density and firmness, and fewer fine lines. It details no trial here, and its authors are affiliated with the company Skin Biology7.
Peptides, especially taken by mouth, improve hydration and radiance. The pooled effect on wrinkles is modest (mean difference of 0.27) and driven by oral polypeptides. Effects on elasticity and density are inconsistent. Tolerance is good, with few adverse events2.
Signal peptides, enzyme inhibitors, neurotransmitter inhibitors and carriers: this is the reference classification. The review only keeps controlled studies, ex vivo or in vivo, on peptides or proteins applied to the skin against signs of aging1.
Most of the peptide is removed by washing. In human skin, 0.22% of the dose is found in the stratum corneum, 0.01% in the epidermis, and no peptide is detected in the dermis8. For palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and another lipopeptide, measured in 3 volunteers, the peptides sit on the surface of stratum corneum cells, not inside them. Study by the company No79.
The panel judges the ingredient safe in current uses up to 0.005%. Beyond that, data are considered insufficient to conclude10.
This page summarizes published literature on a family of cosmetic ingredients. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Peptides differ widely from one another: each trial covers a single peptide, sometimes combined with other actives. Most of the trials cited were run or funded by manufacturers; this is indicated in the sources. No hair study is cited.
Our white label catalog includes 6 formulas with peptides: the key active in 4 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
Signature active in the anti-aging serum and cream, supporting active in ceramide and centella creams.
Paired with ceramides in the leave-in for curly hair and with hydrolyzed keratin in the hair serum.
Four of the most cited peptides, one per mode of action. They do not exclude each other and are often combined in the same formula.
| Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 | Copper tripeptide-1 | Acetyl hexapeptide-8 | Tetrapeptide-30 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Described mode of action | Signal: designed to stimulate collagen production3 | Carrier: complex of the GHK tripeptide with copper7 | Neurotransmitters: presumed interference with signaling8 | Pigmentation: limits the expression of pigmentation genes in the lab5 |
| Intended target | Wrinkles and fine lines3 | Elasticity, firmness7 | Eye-area wrinkles4 | Dark spots5 |
| Evidence cited | 12-week trial, 93 women, 3 ppm3 | Narrative review, no detailed trial7 | 4-week trial, 60 volunteers4 | Four studies versus vehicle5 |
| EU regulation | No restriction12 | No restriction14 | No restriction15 | No restriction16 |
| Point to watch | Only one trial cited, run by a manufacturer3 | Authors affiliated with a peptide company7 | CIR: safe up to 0.005%10 | Results obtained in combination with a vitamin C derivative5 |
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
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