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Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide that holds water. It is mostly used as its sodium salt (INCI: SODIUM HYALURONATE)12. Its molecular weight changes how it behaves: fractions of 20 to 300 kDa cross the stratum corneum, those of 1,000 to 1,400 kDa do not4. Trials cover hydration, elasticity and fine lines356.
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database113, safety according to the CIR expert panel2. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
All five creams (50, 130, 300, 800 and 2,000 kDa) improved hydration and elasticity compared with the control. Wrinkle depth dropped significantly only with the 50 and 130 kDa fractions3.
Hydration measured with a corneometer: +134% right after application, +55% at week 6. The dermatologist's assessment also shows gains in smoothness (64%) and bounce (60%)6.
Hydration higher than the control area at 1, 8 and 24 hours (+59%, +48%, +29%) and lower water loss at 24 hours. The result comes from the combination of three actives, not from hyaluronic acid alone7.
Hydration up at every visit and favorable investigator ratings on fine lines, texture and dryness. With no control group and added peptides, the effect of hyaluronic acid itself is not isolated8.
Fractions of 20 to 300 kDa cross the stratum corneum; those of 1,000 to 1,400 kDa stay at the surface. A 2025 review sets the penetration limit below 100 kDa410.
Skin capacitance of 56.37 AU with low molecular weight, versus 52.37 with high molecular weight and 49.01 with the vehicle. Water loss and dryness symptoms did not differ between areas. No adverse effects5.
This review describes effects of hyaluronic acid on skin and hair, with a focus on hair care, and notes that only the fraction below 100 kDa penetrates the skin. The abstract reports no quantified clinical result on hair: the evidence remains to be confirmed10.
The studies reviewed describe topical hyaluronic acid as well tolerated and effective for skin hydration and rejuvenation. The loss of skin hyaluronic acid starts around age 259.
The review concludes that tissue hydration and elasticity improve and that adverse effects are marginal. It is not limited to cosmetic use: read this result as a sign of good tolerance11.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Several of the clinical trials cited were run or funded by cosmetics companies; this is indicated in the sources.
The trials cited test hyaluronic acid at 0.1% (five molecular weights) and at 1% in combination. The CIR panel notes cosmetic use up to 2%. The final concentration of a formula is set with the formulator, depending on molecular weight, texture and the desired effect.
Our white label catalog includes 40 formulas with hyaluronic acid: the key active in 11 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
Key active in serums, creams, cream cleansers and hydrating eye contour products, supporting active in toners, masks and cleansers.
Supporting active in cream washes, shower oils and scrubs for skin comfort.
Key active in the hydrating hair serum and mask, also found in smoothing hair care and scalp sprays.
Four actives often compared when choosing the hero of a range. They do not exclude each other and are often combined in the same routine.
| Hyaluronic acid | Niacinamide | Vitamin C | Retinol | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main role | Surface hydration, comfort | Barrier, skin tone, shine | Radiance, antioxidant protection | Skin texture, fine lines |
| When | Morning and evening | Morning and evening | Often in the morning | In the evening |
| In the formula | Stable, molecular weight changes the feel and the penetration4 | Stable, easy to formulate in the water phase | Oxidizes with air and light, needs protective packaging | Sensitive to light and oxidation |
| EU regulation | No restriction1 | No restriction | No restriction for ascorbic acid | Concentration limited since Regulation (EU) 2024/99612 |
| Who it suits | All skin types | General public, sensitive skin included | Dull skin | Experienced users, gradual introduction |
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 2, 2026.
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