For lips
In a balm, oil or gloss, it gives a red to rosy tint that recalls the Moroccan beauty ritual, while the waxes and oils in the formula keep lips soft and comfortable.
Plant extractMoroccan heritage
Aker fassi: Moroccan lip and cheek tint
The poppy red petals from the fields, picked in spring.
The pomegranate its peel, added in some recipes, deepens the shade.
The clay bowl coated with pigment, in the souks of Fez.
The color picked up with a fingertip, on lips and cheeks.
INCI · PAPAVER RHOEAS FLOWER EXTRACTCreate my aker fassi range
- INCI name
- PAPAVER RHOEAS FLOWER EXTRACT
- Other names
- Akar fassi, aker el fassi, poppy powder
- Family
- Plant extract, traditional pigment
- Origin
- Tradition of Fez (Morocco)
- Part used
- Poppy petals (Papaver rhoeas), pomegranate peel in some recipes
- Areas
- Lips, cheeks, scrubs, hammam
In brief
Aker fassi in 30 seconds
By the Carmel Cosmetics Labs R&D team · updated October 2, 2026
- INCI namePAPAVER RHOEAS FLOWER EXTRACT (corn poppy flower extract)
- What it isthe traditional red of Fez, made from poppy petals
- For lipsa red to rosy tint, from tinted balm to gloss
- For cheeksa buildable healthy-glow effect, as a blush
- Origina Moroccan tradition tied to the medina of Fez
( A )WHAT IT IS
What is aker fassi?
Aker fassi, also spelled akar fassi, is the traditional Moroccan red used to color the lips and cheeks. It is made from corn poppy petals (Papaver rhoeas), whose color comes from pigments of the anthocyanin family; some recipes add pomegranate peel. Sold as a powder or coated inside a small clay bowl, it now gives its name to balms, blushes and scrubs.
Traditional aker fassi, cosmetic extract or henna: the difference
Traditional aker fassi
Dried, ground poppy petals, often combined with pomegranate peel, sold as a powder or in a clay bowl. A handmade preparation whose shade varies from batch to batch.
Cosmetic poppy extract
A standardized corn poppy flower extract, declared under the INCI name PAPAVER RHOEAS FLOWER EXTRACT. This is the one in our formulas, with an adjusted, stable shade.
Henna
A leaf powder that durably stains the keratin of hair, nails and skin. Aker fassi, by contrast, is a makeup color that blends out and washes off.
( B )SES BIENFAITS
01 02 03
Aker fassi benefits for lips and cheeks
For cheeks
As a liquid blush, it gives a buildable healthy glow: one drop blends out with the fingertips, for a light touch or a bolder color.
For the formula
It brings a strong Moroccan identity that is easy to tell. The European CosIng database lists corn poppy flower extract as a skin conditioning agent.
How to use aker fassi
- Lips
Traditionally, you moisten a fingertip, rub the clay bowl and pat the color onto the lips. In a balm or gloss, it goes on directly.
- Cheeks
One drop of blush on the cheekbone, blended up toward the temple; layer to intensify.
- Body
As a sugar scrub, massaged onto damp skin then rinsed, for soft skin with a rosy glow.
( C )DANS NOS PRODUITS
Launch your aker fassi range
We put it at the heart of blushes, tinted lip care, scrubs and black soaps ready to carry your brand. Choose a category to see the formulas.
( D )NOTES DE FORMULATEUR
How we formulate it
What our formulators consider when aker fassi goes into your product.
- 01A controlled shade
The color of a plant extract varies with the batch and the pH: we stabilize the shade with approved cosmetic colorants, declared in the INCI list.
- 02The right INCI name
"Aker fassi" is a traditional name: the INCI list states PAPAVER RHOEAS FLOWER EXTRACT, and pomegranate extract only if it is in the formula.
- 03Microbiological cleanliness
As a plant-derived ingredient, it is tested on receipt, and the full formula is made with reverse osmosis water.
- 04No medical claims
We write your claims within the cosmetic framework: color, healthy glow, softness, with no therapeutic promise.
Did you know?
The lip color of the Fez medina
- Fassi
Fassi means "from Fez": it was in the souks of the Fez medina that this red made its name, before spreading across Morocco.
- Clay bowl
It comes coated inside a small clay bowl, the zlafa: the color is picked up with a damp finger, more or less intense depending on the water added.
- Poppy
Papaver rhoeas, the corn poppy, is a different species from the opium poppy (Papaver somniferum).
Aker fassi: your questions
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What is aker fassi?
It is the traditional Moroccan red for lips and cheeks, associated with the city of Fez. It is made from corn poppy petals, sometimes with pomegranate peel, and sold as a powder or coated inside a small clay bowl.
What are the benefits of aker fassi?
It is first and foremost a color: it gives lips and cheeks a red to rosy tint and a healthy glow. In a balm or gloss, it is the waxes and oils in the formula that keep lips soft and comfortable.
How do you use aker fassi powder?
Pick up a little powder with a damp fingertip, then pat it onto the lips or cheeks: the more water, the lighter the shade. Do a patch test on a small area before first use.
Is aker fassi made from poppy or pomegranate?
The color comes from poppy petals, rich in red anthocyanins. Many recipes add pomegranate peel, which is why you find both answers. In our formulas, the ingredient is declared as PAPAVER RHOEAS FLOWER EXTRACT.
How do you apply aker fassi to lips and cheeks?
On the lips, pat the color on with a fingertip, from the center out to the edges, and layer to intensify. On the cheeks, blend a small amount over the top of the cheekbone, sweeping up toward the temple.
Aker fassi or akar fassi: what is the difference?
None: they are two spellings of the same name, like "aker el fassi". On a finished product, its INCI name is PAPAVER RHOEAS FLOWER EXTRACT.
Can I create an aker fassi range with Carmel Cosmetics Labs?
Yes. We use it in liquid blushes, tinted balms and glosses, scrubs and black soaps as white label, or in an exclusive private label formula, made in our factory in Morocco.
Sources
- European Commission, CosIng database: PAPAVER RHOEAS FLOWER EXTRACT (corn poppy flower extract)
- Grauso L. et al., Corn poppy, Papaver rhoeas L.: a critical review of its botany, phytochemistry and pharmacology, Phytochemistry Reviews 20 (2021)
- Singh J. et al., Pomegranate Peel Phytochemistry, Pharmacological Properties, Methods of Extraction, and Its Application: A Comprehensive Review, ACS Omega (2023)
- Salhi N. et al., Traditional Knowledge of Medicinal Plants Used for Cosmetic Purposes in the Fez-Meknes Region, Trop J Nat Prod Res 7(11) (2023)
Your aker fassi range, made in Morocco
Send us your brief: we formulate and manufacture in our ISO 22716 factory in Aït Melloul. Free consultation and formula selection, with no commitment.