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How to start a perfume line: 7 steps from fragrance to launch

How to start a perfume line in 7 steps: choose the format and fragrance, pick the bottle and pump, then meet EU rules (IFRA, allergens, PIF, CPNP) and budget the launch.
By Mohamed El Hjouji, founder of Carmel Cosmetics Labs ·
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Flacons de parfum vierges sertis au laboratoire avant de créer sa marque de parfum
Contents

    Updated November 2, 2026

    To start a perfume line, you define a positioning and a format, choose a fragrance (custom creation or a manufacturer’s fragrance), select the bottle and pump, then make the product compliant: a perfume is a cosmetic product under Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 and allergen labeling rules, and in practice the industry’s IFRA standards apply on top.

    Contents
    1. How to start a perfume line: the 7 steps
    2. Which format should you choose for your perfume line?
    3. Custom fragrance or catalog fragrance: which should you choose?
    4. What regulations apply to selling perfume in Europe?
    5. Bottle, pump, cap, box: how to choose the packaging?
    6. What budget should you plan to start a perfume line?
    7. How to choose a manufacturer for your perfume line?
    8. The manufacturer’s view
    9. Frequently asked questions
    10. Conclusion: a perfume project is won on the first choices

    Key takeaways

    • Legally, a perfume is a cosmetic product: a Responsible Person, a safety report, a Product Information File (PIF), a CPNP notification (the European cosmetic product notification portal) and a compliant label are mandatory in the EU.
    • The fragrance can be custom-created with a perfumer or chosen from a white label manufacturer’s library: this is the first trade-off between exclusivity, cost and risk.
    • Since July 31, 2026, new perfumes placed on the EU market must list the fragrance allergens on the list extended by Regulation (EU) 2023/1545.
    • The budget is split across fragrance, compliance, bottle and packaging, filling, brand identity, trademark filing and launch: the bottle and the launch are major cost items, sometimes higher than the fragrance itself.
    • An ISO 22716 certified manufacturer that can supply the IFRA certificate and support the regulatory file makes the launch much simpler.

    How to start a perfume line: the 7 steps

    Starting a perfume line follows a precise order: target and format first, then the fragrance, the bottle, compliance and launch. Choosing a bottle before the fragrance often wastes time and money.

    1. Positioning: target customer, intended retail price, olfactory universe and sales channels.
    2. Format: eau de parfum, extrait, eau de toilette, cologne, roll-on oil, perfuming gel, mist or travel size.
    3. Fragrance: custom creation or catalog fragrance, validated on samples.
    4. Bottle and packaging: bottle, pump, cap, label or screen printing, box.
    5. Compliance: IFRA certificate, safety report, PIF, allergen labeling, CPNP notification by the Responsible Person.
    6. Brand: name checked and registered (INPI in France, OMPIC in Morocco), visual identity.
    7. Production and launch: filling, batch control, then going on sale.

    For the business and distribution side, which is common to any project, see our guide to launching a cosmetics brand.

    Which format should you choose for your perfume line?

    Choose the format based on your target and retail price, because it sets the share of concentrate and therefore the cost price. The concentrate (or fragrance) is the blend of aromatic materials that is then diluted, most often in alcohol, to make the finished product.

    FormatPerfume concentrate (usual benchmark)Typical use
    Extrait de parfum20 to 30%High end, small bottles
    Eau de parfum12 to 20%Core of the range
    Eau de toilette6 to 12%Everyday use, fresh notes
    Eau de Cologne3 to 6%Freshness, large bottles
    Body mist1 to 4%Entry price, reapplied often
    Roll-on oilAlcohol-freeTrail close to the skin, Oriental markets
    Perfuming gelAlcohol-freeAlcohol-free alternative, white musk scent
    Indicative ranges: they vary between houses and are not set by any regulatory text.

    To keep a new perfume line easy to understand, many brands start with a single eau de parfum fragrance in a travel size, then add a mist in the same signature. The available formats are shown in our white label perfume catalog.

    Custom fragrance or catalog fragrance: which should you choose?

    A custom fragrance gives you an exclusive signature; a catalog fragrance reduces development cost and risk. Custom work is done with a perfumer, at the manufacturer or in a fragrance house: olfactory brief, trials, adjustments, approval.

    A catalog fragrance is a composition that is already developed and sorted by olfactory family (floral, woody, amber, musky, fresh, gourmand): you smell it on a sample, then it is produced under your brand. It is often the safest choice for a first collection, because the fragrance is already developed and tested. In both cases, ask for an original fragrance and an IFRA certificate suited to the intended use.

    What regulations apply to selling perfume in Europe?

    A perfume sold in the EU is a cosmetic product governed by Regulation (EC) 1223/2009, with five obligations whatever the size of the brand.

    • Responsible Person (Article 4): a person established in the EU guarantees the compliance of each product; for a perfume made outside the EU, this is the importer or the person they appoint in writing.
    • Safety report (Article 10): the safety assessment of the finished product, signed by a qualified assessor.
    • PIF (Article 11): the Product Information File (safety report, manufacturing method, proof of the claimed effects) is kept for ten years after the last batch is placed on the market.
    • CPNP notification (Article 13): a declaration on the Commission’s free European portal before the product is placed on the market, detailed in our guide to CPNP notification.
    • Good manufacturing practice (Article 8): the ISO 22716 standard is the reference for demonstrating compliance.

    IFRA standards: the safety of the composition

    The IFRA standards are the risk management system of the International Fragrance Association: they limit or ban certain aromatic materials when their safety is in question. IFRA states that the final responsibility for placing safe products on the market remains with companies. The fragrance supplier issues an IFRA certificate: check that it covers your format and the version of the standards in force. These standards are industry self-regulation, not law, but safety assessors and distributors systematically refer to them.

    Fragrance allergens: what Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 changes

    Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 extends the list of allergenic fragrance substances that must appear on the label: 56 substances identified by the European scientific committee (SCCS) are added to the 24 already covered. Each one must appear in the ingredient list once it exceeds 0.001% in a leave-on product, which is the case for a perfume, or 0.01% in a rinse-off product.

    Since July 31, 2026, a non-compliant product can no longer be placed on the EU market; from July 31, 2028, it can no longer be made available there, even if it is already on the shelf. According to recital 2 of the regulation, the share of the Union’s population allergic to fragrance substances is estimated at 1 to 9%. To compare these requirements with those of Canada and the United States, see our fragrance allergen disclosure checklist.

    Good to know: because a perfume is rich in concentrate, it often has a long list of allergens. Plan the space on the label or box from the design stage, especially for a travel size.

    In Morocco, placing a cosmetic on the market falls under the Moroccan authorities (AMMPS, ONSSA depending on the case); check the procedure in force before you launch. If you target several markets, regulatory support to build the PIF avoids redoing the file country by country.

    Bottle, pump, cap, box: how to choose the packaging?

    The bottle carries a large share of a perfume’s perceived value: choose it together with the retail price, not after.

    • The bottle: clear, frosted or lacquered glass, from 10 to 100 ml. A customized standard bottle costs much less than an exclusive mold.
    • The pump: a crimped pump is fixed permanently with a crimping machine, which ensures a tight seal and a premium finish; a screw-on pump can be removed, which makes refilling easier but looks less premium.
    • The cap: metal, surlyn, wood or magnetic; it is what the customer touches first.
    • The dressing: label, screen printing or hot stamping, box and gift set, which must carry the mandatory information of Article 19.

    For the general criteria (materials, compatibility, suppliers), our guide to choosing cosmetic packaging complements this section.

    What budget should you plan to start a perfume line?

    There is no single price to start a perfume line: the budget depends on the fragrance, the bottle, the quantities and the marketing. As a benchmark, Legalstart (in French) estimates that creating a perfume takes roughly 10,000 to 50,000 €, depending on raw materials, the number of trials and market launch costs; amounts vary widely between sources and price tiers. Here are the cost items to price in your quotes.

    Cost itemWhat it includesWhat makes the amount vary
    Fragrance creationBrief, trials, adjustments, or license of a catalog fragranceCustom or catalog, rarity of materials
    ComplianceIFRA certificate, safety report, PIF, labeling, CPNP notificationNumber of formats and target markets
    Bottle and packagingBottle, pump, cap, box, gift setStandard or exclusive mold, finishes
    FillingMaceration, filtration, filling, crimping, batch controlQuantities, number of references
    Brand identityName, logo, label and box designAgency or freelancer, number of variants
    Trademark filingINPI (France), OMPIC (Morocco), EUIPO (EU)Number of classes and territories
    LaunchPhotos, website, samples, influencers, trade showsSales channels and ambition

    Trademark filing is one of the few items with a public price: INPI (in French) charges 190 € for an online filing in one class, then 40 € per additional class (perfumes fall under class 3). In Morocco, filing is done with OMPIC, whose fee schedule should be checked before you file. To compare manufacturing quotes item by item, use our method to calculate your costs and compare cosmetic quotes.

    How to choose a manufacturer for your perfume line?

    The right manufacturer covers the fragrance, the filling and compliance, with written proof. Check these criteria:

    • ISO 22716 certification of the production site, ideally completed by ISO 9001.
    • IFRA certificate supplied for each fragrance, suited to your format.
    • Regulatory support: manufacturing information for the PIF, help with allergen labeling and with the CPNP notification by your Responsible Person.
    • Fragrance library and custom creation, with samples before approval.
    • Mastery of crimping and batch control (appearance, color, scent, fill level).

    The manufacturer’s view

    At Carmel Cosmetics Labs, we make white label perfumes in our ISO 22716 and ISO 9001 certified factory in Ait Melloul, near Agadir. Project owners start from our fragrance library or from a custom creation, and smell the samples before approving.

    To start a perfume line without nasty surprises, we recommend dealing with these points early:

    • choose the fragrance before the bottle, then check that the fragrance is compatible with the chosen pump and glass;
    • plan the space for the allergen list on the label and box from the design stage;
    • appoint the Responsible Person established in the EU before starting production, since they are the one who notifies and keeps the PIF;
    • start with a short range, then extend it once the market has validated the fragrance.

    Our role: supply the IFRA certificate for each composition, manufacture and control each batch, and give your Responsible Person the manufacturing information needed for the PIF and the CPNP notification. The MOQ is accessible. The details of the offer are on our page on perfume manufacturing under your brand.

    Frequently asked questions

    What is the first decision to make when you start a perfume line?

    The format and the intended retail price: they set the concentration of the fragrance, so the cost price, then the choice of bottle and pump. Fix them before the fragrance and the design, then approve the fragrance on samples before ordering bottles and boxes.

    Can you sell a perfume without using an industrial manufacturer?

    Only if it meets the same obligations as an industrial perfume: Regulation 1223/2009, Responsible Person, safety report, PIF, CPNP notification, a label with allergens and good manufacturing practice. Without these, selling exposes the brand to a product recall.

    What is an IFRA certificate?

    An IFRA certificate is the document issued by the supplier of a fragrance composition to attest that it complies with the standards of the International Fragrance Association for a given use. It states the maximum usage level by product category. It is one of the documents the safety assessor uses for the PIF safety report.

    Can a perfume made in Morocco be sold in the European Union?

    Yes, if it complies with Regulation 1223/2009. Because it is made outside the EU, the Responsible Person is the importer established in the Union, or a person they appoint in writing. They notify the product on the CPNP, keep the PIF available for the authorities and appear on the label. The manufacturer gives them the production information and certificates.

    Conclusion: a perfume project is won on the first choices

    To start a perfume line is to align three decisions: the format and the fragrance, the object (bottle, pump, box) and compliance (IFRA, allergens, PIF, CPNP).

    Preparing your perfume line? Discover our white label perfume manufacturer offer, then book a free consultation: we work with you on the fragrance, the bottle and the regulatory file, and you receive samples before you launch.

    Free consultation →

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    Mohamed El HjoujiFounder of Carmel Cosmetics Labs

    Mohamed El Hjouji is the founder of Carmel Cosmetics Labs, a cosmetics laboratory in Agadir, Morocco, certified ISO 22716 (GMP) and ISO 9001. Specializing in white label and private label manufacturing, he supports 500+ beauty brands in over 35 countries, from formulation to production that meets EU regulations (EC No 1223/2009), registered with the FDA (MoCRA) for the US.

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