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Urea is a component of the natural moisturizing factor of the stratum corneum34. As a humectant, it hydrates skin up to 10%; above that, it has a keratolytic, meaning exfoliating, action3. The CIR panel judges it safe in cosmetics, noting that it can increase the penetration of other substances2.
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1, safety according to the CIR expert panel2. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
At medium concentrations of 15 to 30%, urea has a humectant and keratolytic effect, but clinical evidence is limited. On the face, these higher concentrations can irritate: they are kept for less sensitive areas5.
The 20% cream hydrates more than placebo on every area studied. No difference between 5% and 20%, nor between 5% and placebo, except on one of the areas7.
A commercial product and a compounded preparation have a comparable effect on the barrier, measured against a control cream and an untreated area. The commercial product does slightly better on water loss at 4 h8.
After 7 weeks, the 5% urea cream reduces water loss and reactivity to an irritant, unlike three simplified creams, one of them with 5% urea, and a lipid-free gel. The composition of the cream weighs as much as the urea9.
Urea is the most studied active, with 14 studies, ahead of ammonium lactate (7). Study quality is low to moderate: the review cannot recommend one active over another11.
A component of the natural moisturizing factor, urea preserves skin hydration. Up to 10%, it acts as a moisturizer; above that, it has a keratolytic action. It also serves as a penetration enhancer3.
Urea acts on the expression of keratinocyte genes linked to their differentiation and to the production of antimicrobial peptides. Urea-based products are well tolerated, with mild adverse effects, more frequent at high concentration4.
Non-invasive measurements of stratum corneum function make it possible to quantify the hydrating effect of topical urea6.
The effect on dryness is equivalent, but moderate or severe stinging affects 24% of users of the urea-salt cream against 10% for glycerin10.
The panel concludes that urea is safe as used in cosmetics. It notes that it can increase the absorption of other substances through the skin, and that a burning sensation is the most reported effect2.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Much of the literature on urea concerns very dry skin, or very dry and reactive skin: only hydration and comfort results are reported here. One review was carried out with a manufacturer; this is indicated in the sources.
The trials cited test urea at 4, 5, 10 and 20%. Up to 10%, the literature describes a hydrating effect; above that, a keratolytic effect3. The final concentration of a formula is set with the formulator, depending on the body area, the texture and the target tolerance.
Our white label catalog includes 8 formulas with urea: the key active in 2 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
Supporting humectant in face masks, the vitamin C cream and the scrub.
Key active in the nail and cuticle cream, supporting humectant in the shower oil, the body mask and the massage milk.
Three humectants that come back in dry skin care. They can be combined in the same formula.
| Urea | Glycerin | Ammonium lactate | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Main role | Humectant of the natural moisturizing factor, keratolytic above 10%3 | Humectant12 | Humectant and keratolytic according to CosIng13 |
| Tolerance | Moderate or severe stinging in 24% of users of a cream with 4% urea and 4% salt10 | Stinging in 10% of users of a cream with 20% glycerin10 | No data kept here |
| Studies on dry feet | 14 of 22 studies, the most studied active11 | No data kept here | 7 of 22 studies11 |
| EU regulation | No restriction1 | No restriction12 | No restriction13 |
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 2, 2026.
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