An oil almost pure in linalool
LaboratoryLinalool makes up 93.6% of the oil3. In the pau-rosa leaf oil analyzed in another study, it makes up 88.6%4.
Rosewood essential oil
Rosewood essential oil comes from Aniba rosaeodora, a tree of the Lauraceae family1. It is composed overwhelmingly of linalool (93.6% in one oil studied)3, a fragrance allergen named in Annex III2. The tree is described as endangered after decades of extraction7: the origin of the material is an essential buying point.
Rosewood oil at a glance
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1 and from consolidated Regulation (EC) 1223/20092. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
- INCI name
- ANIBA ROSAEODORA WOOD OILUS INCI name: ANIBA ROSAEODORA (ROSEWOOD) WOOD OIL1
- Other names
- Rosewood essential oilRosewood oil, pau-rosa (Amazonian name)4. CosIng also lists a neighboring entry, ANIBA ROSAEODORA AMAZONICA WOOD OIL (CAS 93685-34-8)1
- CAS number
- 8015-77-8
- EC number
- Not assignedCosIng gives no EC number for this CAS1
- Botanical origin
- Rosewood (Aniba rosaeodora, Lauraceae)CosIng: volatile oil obtained from the wood1. The oil can also be distilled from the leaves8
- Composition
- Linalool (88.6 to 93.6% in the oils studied)A. rosaeodora var. amazonica oil: 93.6% linalool3; pau-rosa leaf oil: 88.6%4. In other Aniba species, linalool ranges from 15.2 to 75.3% or gives way to 1-nitro-2-phenylethane and phellandrenes5
- CosIng functions
- Fragrance, perfuming, astringent, tonic, skin conditioning"Fragrance", "Perfuming", "Astringent", "Tonic" and "Skin conditioning"1
- EU status
- No annex of Regulation 1223/2009The name Aniba appears in no annex of the version consolidated on 1 May 20252
- Allergen to declare
- Not as an oil; linalool must be declaredThe oil is not named, but linalool, its overwhelming constituent, is (Annex III, line 84): it must be declared above 0.001% in a leave-on product and 0.01% in a rinse-off product2
- Safety
- No CIR assessment foundNo CIR panel report found on this oil. A documented point of caution: oxidized linalool is a frequent sensitizer in patch tests9
What the research says
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory
Oil compositionChemistry
Other Aniba species do not share the profile
LaboratoryThe oils of four Aniba species differ in their chemistry: 1-nitro-2-phenylethane (70.9 to 88.3%), linalool (15.2 to 75.3%), α-phellandrene and β-phellandrene. The compound family follows the genetics of the species5. The species must therefore be specified at purchase.
Origin and sustainabilitySourcing
A tree described as endangered
ReviewAniba rosaeodora is described as an endangered Amazonian tree and a high-value non-timber forest resource6. After decades of predatory extraction, the species is judged at risk of extinction7.
Distilling leaves rather than cutting the tree
LaboratoryExtracting the oil from the wood means felling the tree. Leaf oil is studied as a sustainable source: the analyses conclude that leaves can replace wood to obtain natural rosewood linalool87.
Linalool and contact allergyToxicology
Oxidized linalool often gives positive tests
Clinical studyLinalool hydroperoxides give 483 positive tests (8.8%). Many reactions were weak, doubtful or irritant: the authors point to a risk of false positives9. A review considers adding them to the European baseline series justified, with exposure thresholds still to be better defined10.
No tolerance data for the oil itself
ReviewThe data above concern linalool, not rosewood oil. We found no published sensitization test on this oil: its linalool content means the formula must be protected from oxidation.
Skin: laboratory evidence onlySkincare
Antimicrobial and antioxidant activity in vitro
LaboratoryThe oil and linalool slow all the bacterial strains tested, with the lowest minimum concentration for S. aureus. To scavenge the ABTS radical, the EC50 is 15.46 µg/mL for the oil and 6.78 µg/mL for linalool. No cytotoxic effect on macrophages. This is a laboratory study: it says nothing about an effect on human skin3. We kept no cosmetic trial in humans.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Evidence is flagged by level: clinical trial, review or laboratory.
Which products can use rosewood oil?
No formula in our white label catalog features rosewood oil yet. Our formulation lab can add it to a custom formula or to a catalog formula. Its common uses:
Face
Facial care and scented waters with a rosy note, with attention to tolerance: the oil is mostly a fragrance ingredient.
Body
Massage oils, soaps, care candles and body milks with a soft floral and woody note.
Hair
Scented leave-in care and hair oils; we found no published study on hair.
Rosewood, geranium, ylang-ylang or copaiba?
Four essential oils often compared for their floral or woody notes. Their chemistry differs, and so does their labeling status.
| Rosewood | Geranium | Ylang-ylang | Copaiba | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dominant constituents | Linalool (93.6% in one oil studied)3 | β-citronellol (29.7%) and geraniol (14.6%) in one sample11 | Linalool, geranyl acetate, benzyl benzoate12 | β-caryophyllene (19.7 to 57.5% depending on the species)13 |
| Annex III | Oil not named; linalool named (line 84)2 | Oil named (line 364)14 | Oil named (line 347)14 | Oil not named; beta-caryophyllene named (line 332)14 |
Frequently asked questions about rosewood oil
What is rosewood essential oil?
What are the benefits of rosewood oil in cosmetics?
Do I have to declare rosewood oil in the ingredient list?
Aniba rosaeodora oil is not named in Annex III. However, the linalool it contains in large quantity is (line 84): it must be declared above 0.001% in a leave-on product and 0.01% in a rinse-off product2.
Is rosewood an endangered species?
Is rosewood oil allergenic?
Its skin tolerance is not documented in the studies we kept. Its main constituent, linalool, becomes sensitizing as it oxidizes: 8.8% of people tested with oxidized linalool react, with a risk of false positives9. Hence the value of air-protected packaging and tolerance tests on the finished product.
Are there alternatives to rosewood oil?
Can you manufacture a rosewood product for my brand?
Yes, we study its integration depending on raw material availability and traceability. Our ISO 22716 certified lab can add it to a customized catalog formula, or design it into a custom formula, with the allergen declaration calculated. Samples are free.
Further reading
- Fragrance allergens 2026: Canada, EU, USA compliance checklist for white label brandsThe fragrance allergens to declare and what changes as the list is extended
- EU cosmetics regulations in 2026The European framework brands need to know in 2026
- Cosmetic product specification: 5 secrets to successFixing an origin and a specification with your supplier
Sources
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng, entry ANIBA ROSAEODORA WOOD OIL (CAS 8015-77-8, no EC number). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
- Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products, consolidated version of 1 May 2025 (Annexes II to VI). eur-lex.europa.eu
- Teles AM, Silva-Silva JV, Fernandes JMP, Calabrese KDS, Abreu-Silva AL, Marinho SC, et al. Aniba rosaeodora (Var. amazonica Ducke) Essential Oil: Chemical Composition, Antibacterial, Antioxidant and Antitrypanosomal Activity. Antibiotics (Basel). 2020;10(1):24. doi:10.3390/antibiotics10010024
- Dos Santos ÉRQ, Maia CSF, Fontes Junior EA, Melo AS, Pinheiro BG, Maia JGS. Linalool-rich essential oils from the Amazon display antidepressant-type effect in rodents. J Ethnopharmacol. 2018;212:43-49. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2017.10.013
- Xavier JKAM, Maia L, Figueiredo PLB, Folador A, Ramos AR, Andrade EH, et al. Essential Oil Composition and DNA Barcode and Identification of Aniba species (Lauraceae) Growing in the Amazon Region. Molecules. 2021;26(7):1914. doi:10.3390/molecules26071914
- Angrizani RC, Contim LA, Lemes MR. Development and characterization of microsatellite markers for the endangered Amazonian tree Aniba rosaeodora (Lauraceae). Appl Plant Sci. 2013;1(9):apps.1200516. doi:10.3732/apps.1200516
- Almeida MR, Fidelis CH, Barata LE, Poppi RJ. Classification of Amazonian rosewood essential oil by Raman spectroscopy and PLS-DA with reliability estimation. Talanta. 2013;117:305-11. doi:10.1016/j.talanta.2013.09.025
- d'Acampora Zellner B, Lo Presti M, Barata LE, Dugo P, Dugo G, Mondello L. Evaluation of leaf-derived extracts as an environmentally sustainable source of essential oils by using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry and enantioselective gas chromatography-olfactometry. Anal Chem. 2006;78(3):883-90. doi:10.1021/ac051337s
- Schubert S, Geier J, Brans R, Heratizadeh A, Kränke B, Schnuch A, et al. Patch testing hydroperoxides of limonene and linalool in consecutive patients-Results of the IVDK 2018-2020. Contact Dermatitis. 2023;89(2):85-94. doi:10.1111/cod.14332
- Ogueta IA, Brared Christensson J, Giménez-Arnau E, Brans R, Wilkinson M, Stingeni L, et al. Limonene and linalool hydroperoxides review: Pros and cons for routine patch testing. Contact Dermatitis. 2022;87(1):1-12. doi:10.1111/cod.14064
- Kačániová M, Vukic M, Vukovic NL, Čmiková N, Verešová A, Schwarzová M, et al. An In-Depth Study on the Chemical Composition and Biological Effects of Pelargonium graveolens Essential Oil. Foods. 2023;13(1):33. doi:10.3390/foods13010033
- Mrani SA, Zejli H, Azzouni D, Fadili D, Alanazi MM, Hassane SOS, et al. Chemical Composition, Antioxidant, Antibacterial, and Hemolytic Properties of Ylang-Ylang (Cananga odorata) Essential Oil: Potential Therapeutic Applications in Dermatology. Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2024;17(10):1376. doi:10.3390/ph17101376
- Veiga Junior VF, Rosas EC, Carvalho MV, Henriques MG, Pinto AC. Chemical composition and anti-inflammatory activity of copaiba oils from Copaifera cearensis Huber ex Ducke, Copaifera reticulata Ducke and Copaifera multijuga Hayne--a comparative study. J Ethnopharmacol. 2007;112(2):248-54. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2007.03.005
- Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards labelling of fragrance allergens in cosmetic products (Annex III). eur-lex.europa.eu
- Boukhris M, Simmonds MS, Sayadi S, Bouaziz M. Chemical composition and biological activities of polar extracts and essential oil of rose-scented geranium, Pelargonium graveolens. Phytother Res. 2013;27(8):1206-13. doi:10.1002/ptr.4853
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