Patchouli alcohol as a marker
ReviewThe leaves contain mostly patchouli alcohol, β-patchoulene, pogostone, α-bulnesene and β-caryophyllene5.
Patchouli essential oil
Patchouli essential oil is obtained from the leaves of Pogostemon cablin1. Its marker constituent is patchouli alcohol3. Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 names it in Annex III: it must be declared above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products2. Published effects on skin come mostly from animal or laboratory studies3.
Patchouli oil at a glance
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1 and from Regulation (EU) 2023/15452. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
- INCI name
- POGOSTEMON CABLIN LEAF OILRegulation (EU) 2023/1545 names it "Pogostemon Cablin Oil"2
- Other names
- Patchouli essential oilPatchouli oil
- CAS number
- 8014-09-3 / 84238-39-1
- EC number
- 282-493-4Linked to CAS 84238-39-1; no EC number for CAS 8014-09-31
- Botanical origin
- Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin, Lamiaceae)CosIng: volatile oil obtained from the leaves1
- Composition
- Patchouli alcohol, α-guaiene, seychellenePatchouli alcohol: about 28% (w/w) in the oil of one study3; 69.9% in the light fraction of a purified oil, while α-guaiene (17.1%) and seychellene (10.3%) concentrate in the heavy fraction4
- CosIng function
- Fragrance"Fragrance"1
- EU status
- Named in Annex III, line 365Line added by Regulation (EU) 2023/15452. The CosIng entry for the oil does not refer to this line: the text of the regulation prevails1
- Allergen to declare
- Yes, under its INCI nameAbove 0.001% in a leave-on product and 0.01% in a rinse-off product. Non-compliant products may be placed on the market until 31 July 2026 and made available until 31 July 20282
- Safety
- No CIR assessment foundNo CIR panel report found on this oil. EFSA considers it irritating to skin and eyes and sensitizing to the respiratory tract (opinion on an animal feed additive)8
What the research says
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory
Oil compositionChemistry
Purification changes the profile
LaboratoryPatchouli alcohol makes up 69.9% of the light fraction. α-Guaiene (17.1%) and seychellene (10.3%) are more abundant in the heavy fraction. A "purified" oil therefore does not smell or compose like a crude oil4.
ToleranceToxicology
Irritating and sensitizing for the user
ReviewThe opinion concludes that the oil should be considered irritating to skin and eyes, and sensitizing to the respiratory tract8.
A contact allergy case reported in 2026
Case reportThe authors describe an allergic skin reaction to a product containing patchouli essential oil. A single case gives no frequency: it supports mandatory labeling and tolerance testing9.
Skin: animal and laboratory evidenceSkincare
Mouse skin protected from photoaging
LaboratoryCompared with unprotected irradiated mice, the oil limits wrinkle formation and loss of elasticity. Collagen increases by about 21.9% and 26.3%, epidermal thickness falls by about 32.6% and the oxidative stress marker MDA falls by about 26.5%. This is an animal study: it does not allow a conclusion in humans3.
Pogostone also protects mouse skin
LaboratoryApplied before UV, pogostone improves visible damage and oxidation markers, and slows collagen-degrading enzymes (MMP-1 and MMP-3). It is only present as a constituent of the oil7.
Few human trials
ReviewReviews on patchouli mostly describe pharmacological effects observed in the laboratory or in animals, and call for validation before any application56. We kept no cosmetic trial in humans.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Evidence is flagged by level: clinical trial, review or laboratory.
Which products can use patchouli oil?
No formula in our white label catalog features patchouli oil yet. Our formulation lab can add it to a custom formula or to a catalog formula. Its common uses:
Face
Rare in facial care: the oil is mostly a base-note fragrance ingredient, with attention to tolerance.
Body
Massage oils, soaps, care candles and body creams with a woody, earthy note.
Hair
Scented hair oils and leave-in care; we found no published study on hair.
Patchouli, ylang-ylang, geranium or rosewood?
Four fragrance essential oils often compared. Their chemistry differs, and so does their labeling status.
| Patchouli | Ylang-ylang | Geranium | Rosewood | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dominant constituents | Patchouli alcohol (about 28% in the oil studied)3 | Linalool, geranyl acetate, benzyl benzoate10 | β-citronellol (29.7%) and geraniol (14.6%) in one sample11 | Linalool (93.6% in one oil studied)12 |
| Annex III | Oil named (line 365)2 | Oil named (line 347)2 | Oil named (line 364)2 | Oil not named; linalool named (line 84)13 |
Frequently asked questions about patchouli oil
What is patchouli essential oil?
What are the benefits of patchouli oil in cosmetics?
Do I have to declare patchouli oil in the ingredient list?
Yes. Since Regulation (EU) 2023/1545, Pogostemon cablin oil is named in Annex III (line 365) and must be declared above 0.001% in a leave-on product and 0.01% in a rinse-off product2. Non-compliant products may be placed on the market until 31 July 2026 and made available until 31 July 2028.
Is patchouli oil allergenic?
Can you use patchouli oil on hair?
We found no published study on hair or scalp with this oil. In a hair product, it serves mainly as a fragrance, with the same labeling obligation.
Is patchouli oil safe?
Can you manufacture a patchouli product for my brand?
Yes, we study its integration depending on raw material availability. Our ISO 22716 certified lab can add it to a customized catalog formula, or design it into a custom formula, with the allergen declaration calculated. Samples are free.
Further reading
- Fragrance allergens 2026: Canada, EU, USA compliance checklist for white label brandsThe fragrance allergens to declare and what changes as the list is extended
- EU cosmetics regulations in 2026The European framework brands need to know in 2026
- Cosmetic product specification: 5 secrets to successFixing an origin and a specification with your supplier
Sources
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng, entry POGOSTEMON CABLIN LEAF OIL (CAS 8014-09-3 / 84238-39-1, EC 282-493-4). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
- Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards labelling of fragrance allergens in cosmetic products (Annex III). eur-lex.europa.eu
- Lin RF, Feng XX, Li CW, Zhang XJ, Yu XT, Zhou JY, et al. Prevention of UV radiation-induced cutaneous photoaging in mice by topical administration of patchouli oil. J Ethnopharmacol. 2014;154(2):408-18. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2014.04.020
- Ginting B, Sufriadi E, Harnelly E, Isnaini N, Mulana F, Suparto IH, et al. Identification of volatile compounds contained in the therapeutic essential oils from Pogostemon cablin, Melaleuca leucadendra, and Mentha piperita and their purified fractions. J Adv Pharm Technol Res. 2023;14(3):208-212. doi:10.4103/JAPTR.JAPTR_161_23
- Mrisho II, Musazade E, Chen H, Zhao H, Xing J, Li X, et al. Unlocking the Therapeutic Potential of Patchouli Leaves: A Comprehensive Review of Phytochemical and Pharmacological Insights. Plants (Basel). 2025;14(7):1034. doi:10.3390/plants14071034
- Junren C, Xiaofang X, Mengting L, Qiuyun X, Gangmin L, Huiqiong Z, et al. Pharmacological activities and mechanisms of action of Pogostemon cablin Benth: a review. Chin Med. 2021;16(1):5. doi:10.1186/s13020-020-00413-y
- Wang XF, Huang YF, Wang L, Xu LQ, Yu XT, Liu YH, et al. Photo-protective activity of pogostone against UV-induced skin premature aging in mice. Exp Gerontol. 2016;77:76-86. doi:10.1016/j.exger.2016.02.017
- EFSA Panel on Additives and Products or Substances used in Animal Feed (FEEDAP), Villa RE, Azimonti G, Bonos E, Christensen H, Durjava M, et al. Safety and efficacy of a feed additive consisting of an essential oil derived from the leaves of Pogostemon cablin Benth. (patchouli oil) for use in all animal species (FEFANA asbl). EFSA J. 2025;23(4):e9357. doi:10.2903/j.efsa.2025.9357
- Rosato WA, Danza P, Ciccarese G, Foti C, Sbarra G. Allergic Contact Dermatitis to a Product Containing Patchouli Essential Oil in a Non-Occupational Setting. Contact Dermatitis. 2026;94(4):421-423. doi:10.1111/cod.70081
- Mrani SA, Zejli H, Azzouni D, Fadili D, Alanazi MM, Hassane SOS, et al. Chemical Composition, Antioxidant, Antibacterial, and Hemolytic Properties of Ylang-Ylang (Cananga odorata) Essential Oil: Potential Therapeutic Applications in Dermatology. Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2024;17(10):1376. doi:10.3390/ph17101376
- Kačániová M, Vukic M, Vukovic NL, Čmiková N, Verešová A, Schwarzová M, et al. An In-Depth Study on the Chemical Composition and Biological Effects of Pelargonium graveolens Essential Oil. Foods. 2023;13(1):33. doi:10.3390/foods13010033
- Teles AM, Silva-Silva JV, Fernandes JMP, Calabrese KDS, Abreu-Silva AL, Marinho SC, et al. Aniba rosaeodora (Var. amazonica Ducke) Essential Oil: Chemical Composition, Antibacterial, Antioxidant and Antitrypanosomal Activity. Antibiotics (Basel). 2020;10(1):24. doi:10.3390/antibiotics10010024
- Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products, consolidated version of 1 May 2025 (Annexes II to VI). eur-lex.europa.eu
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