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Licorice root extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra) is declared in cosmetics as a skin conditioning and bleaching agent12. Its glabridin slows tyrosinase in the lab35, but the clinical trials test combinations8. Contact allergies are rare and documented by isolated cases121314.
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database12 and Regulation (EC) 1223/200916. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Glabridin reduces tyrosinase activity in B16 cells at 0.1-1.0 µg/ml, with no detectable effect on their DNA synthesis. In guinea pigs, it limits the pigmentation and redness induced by UVB. Study by a cosmetics manufacturer, on the isolated molecule3.
Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase reversibly (IC50 of 0.43 µmol/L). In the zebrafish model, it did not change melanin synthesis and proved toxic to the embryo: the in vitro result does not transfer as is4.
The 80% ethanolic extract is the most active of the extracts tested. Of seven compounds identified, glabridin is the most potent and reduces the activity of the MITF factor, which controls the pigmentation enzymes5.
No statistical difference between the two groups on the improvement of dark spots. The combination caused fewer mild side effects (2 volunteers versus 7). The trial tests a combination, not licorice alone8.
Licorice extracts are among the agents that show a depigmenting effect. The authors stress the small number of trials, their short duration and the lack of long-term data7.
Glabridin is among the natural actives reported as beneficial. The authors mainly retain alpha-arbutin, caffeine, cyanidin-3-glucoside and dihydrochalcone, and judge combinations of actives more effective than a single active9.
These isolated molecules are judged safe at use concentrations; glycyrrhetinic acid up to 6% was neither irritating nor sensitizing in clinical tests. The report states that it does not cover plant extracts and asks to limit pesticides and toxic metals in the raw material11.
Contact allergies to a licorice extract in a cosmetic are described1213. A chromatography analysis points to licorice flavonoids14. The 2021 case involves Glycyrrhiza inflata, another species15. These isolated cases give no frequency.
The HET-CAM test showed no irritation. Lead, cadmium, arsenic, nickel and cobalt stayed below the detection limit. A lab test on a single extract, which does not predict the tolerance of a cream10.
Glabridin is the chemical marker of G. glabra. It is mainly studied for its antioxidant effects; the review also notes an estrogen-like activity, a point to monitor in formulation6.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Licorice is also used in herbal medicine and food: only the cosmetic aspects are covered here. Clinical trials almost always test combinations or isolated glabridin, which is stated each time.
Our white label catalog includes 24 formulas with licorice root extract: the key active in 4 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
Key active in a face scrub and a brightening eye serum; supporting active in serums, cleansers, creams, masks and toners designed for dark spots and skin tone.
Key active in a salt scrub and an intimate musk; also present in an intimate gel, a body lotion, a creamy scrub and a tinted sun serum.
In our formulas, it is most often paired with
Panthenol 14Niacinamide 11Vitamin E 10Hyaluronic acid 8Vitamin C 7Four actives often combined in skin tone and dark spot care. They do not exclude each other.
| Licorice root extract | Niacinamide | Kojic acid | Alpha-arbutin | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Origin | Licorice root, plant extract1 | Amide form of vitamin B3 | Metabolite of fungal origin | Synthetic molecule |
| Evidence cited here | Lab studies and a trial on a combination38 | Clinical trials, see its page | Clinical trials, see its page | Clinical trials, see its page |
| Formulation watch point | Glabridin content varies by extract10; rare cases of allergy1213 | Stable, well documented | Dose limited by regulation | Dose limited by regulation |
| EU regulation | No restriction116 | No restriction | Annex III, 1% maximum (face and hands) | Annex III, 2% (face) and 0.5% (body) |
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
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