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Chili pepper extract (Capsicum annuum) comes from the fruit of a Solanaceae and contains capsaicin, the pungent component of chili pepper15. Applied to the lips, capsaicin causes a burning sensation and an increase in local blood flow and temperature6. The CIR panel notes possible irritation at low concentration and asks for caution4.
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1, restrictions under Regulation (EC) 1223/20092, safety according to the CIR expert panel4. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Capsaicin causes a burning sensation and increases local blood flow and temperature, without changing mechanical sensitivity. The effect is stronger on the lips than on the tongue. This sensory and vascular response underlies the warming effect; the study measures neither volume nor plumping6.
Capsaicin first excites sensory neurons, with a local burning sensation and a neurogenic reaction, then causes desensitization. At high exposure, structural changes in nerve endings are described. Hence the value of a measured dose5.
The irritation and discomfort felt are lower with the encapsulated formula than with the free chili gel and the commercial product. The nanocarriers also improved physical and chemical stability. Trial on a specific formula, not on a chili extract alone7.
Chili-derived ingredients were used in 19 cosmetic products, at concentrations up to 5%. Capsaicin itself was not in common use. Contaminants were detected: aflatoxin and N-nitroso compounds4.
At 0.025%, no clinically significant irritation or contact allergy. A blend containing 1 to 5% of extract caused very slight erythema in 1 volunteer out of 10 after 48 h. Provocative exposure tests also showed that capsaicin is irritating to the skin4.
The ingredients can irritate at low concentration. Capsaicin increased the skin penetration of another active: the panel recommends caution. It asks for the absence of aflatoxin (≤ 15 ppb) and for these ingredients not to be used where N-nitroso compounds can form. Capsaicin is irritating to the eye in mice, rats and rabbits4.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Capsaicin is mostly studied for pain, outside the cosmetic scope: these uses are not covered here. No published study measuring a plumping effect on the lips was found.
Our white label catalog includes 2 formulas with chili pepper extract, always as a supporting ingredient. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
In our formulas, it is most often paired with
Aker Fassi (tinted version) 1Shea butter 1Hydrolyzed collagen 1Sweet almond oil 1Menthol 1Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
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