Less melanin in a human skin model
LaboratoryMelanin synthesis falls to 76% of that of control cells, and to 40% on the skin model, with no toxicity to the cells. These are lab results, not a demonstrated effect on living skin4.
Alpha-arbutin
Alpha-arbutin is a hydroquinone glycoside obtained by enzymatic synthesis3. In the lab, it slows melanin formation4, more strongly than beta-arbutin on human tyrosinase5. Clinical evidence remains thin. The EU limits it to 2% in face cream and 0.5% in body lotion2.
Alpha-arbutin at a glance
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Data from the European Commission's CosIng database1, Regulation (EU) 2024/9962 and the opinion of the SCCS scientific committee3. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
- INCI name
- ALPHA-ARBUTIN
- Other names
- 4-Hydroxyphenyl-alpha-D-glucopyranosideAlpha isomer of arbutin3
- CAS number
- 84380-01-8
- EC number
- 617-561-8
- Formula
- C₁₂H₁₆O₇Hydroquinone glycoside3
- Origin
- Enzymatic synthesisGlycosylation of hydroquinone; beta-arbutin, by contrast, occurs in the leaves and bark of many plants3
- CosIng functions
- Antioxidant, skin lighteningAlso a skin conditioning agent1
- EU status
- RestrictedAnnex III no. 377: 2% in face cream, 0.5% in body lotion. Hydroquinone must remain at the level of unavoidable traces2
- Allergen to declare
- No
- Safety
- Judged safe at the permitted levelsSCCS opinion of January 31, 2023, including cumulative exposure with arbutin3
What the research says
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory
Facial skinSkincare
More potent than beta-arbutin on tyrosinase
LaboratoryOn human tyrosinase, the inhibition constant of alpha-arbutin is 20 times lower than that of arbutin: the inhibition is stronger5. On mouse melanoma tyrosinase, it is about 10 times more active (IC50 of 0.48 mM) but does not inhibit mushroom tyrosinase: the result depends on the enzyme tested6.
An experimental gel tested on volunteers
Clinical trialThe formulation improves the melanin index, hydration and elasticity of the skin. The abstract gives neither the sample size nor the values, and the formula is experimental: the effect of alpha-arbutin alone is not isolated7.
Safety assessmentSCCS
Safe up to 2% in face cream and 0.5% in body lotion
SCCS opinionThe committee judges alpha-arbutin safe at these levels, including when used together, and cumulative exposure with arbutin without risk. Hydroquinone must remain at the level of unavoidable traces3. Regulation (EU) 2024/996 adopts these limits2.
Low skin absorption
LaboratoryTotal skin absorption reaches 0.27 ± 0.13% of the dose. The SCCS uses 0.53% in its calculations and notes the low number of donors3.
What experts sayDermatology
A cosmetic alternative, quality trials to come
ReviewArbutin and its derivatives, kojic acid and nicotinamide were developed as cosmetic alternatives to medical agents with side effects9. A 2021 review considers that quality trials, on larger samples, are still needed to confirm the efficacy and safety of alpha-arbutin8.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Evidence on alpha-arbutin comes mostly from lab studies; clinical trials on healthy skin are rare and the published studies often cover medical uses, which we do not report. Several studies were run by industry; this is indicated in the sources.
Which products use alpha-arbutin?
Our white label catalog includes 2 formulas with alpha-arbutin: the key active in 2 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
2Face
Key active, with kojic acid, of the catalog's dark spot serum and cream.
Alpha-arbutin, arbutin, kojic acid or niacinamide?
Four actives often compared for evening out skin tone. They do not exclude each other: our dark spot serum and cream combine alpha-arbutin, kojic acid and niacinamide.
| Alpha-arbutin | Arbutin (beta) | Kojic acid | Niacinamide | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Origin | Enzymatic synthesis3 | Found in many plants3 | Not covered here | Vitamin B3 |
| EU regulation | Restricted: 2% in face cream, 0.5% in body lotion2 | Restricted: 7% in face cream2 | Restricted: 1% for face and hands2 | No restriction |
| Human tyrosinase | Stronger inhibition than beta5 | Weaker inhibition than alpha5 | Not compared in these studies | Different mode of action: see the niacinamide page |
| Point of caution | Hydroquinone at the level of unavoidable traces3 | Releases hydroquinone at pH 3 or below3 | Concentration limit in Annex III2 | See the niacinamide page |
Frequently asked questions about alpha-arbutin
What is alpha-arbutin?
What are the benefits of alpha-arbutin?
What percentage of alpha-arbutin is allowed in cosmetics?
Can you combine alpha-arbutin with vitamin C, kojic acid and niacinamide?
Yes, these are common combinations. Our dark spot cream and serum combine kojic acid and alpha-arbutin, with niacinamide and vitamin C among their supporting actives. Kojic acid has its own 1% limit for face and hand products2. The stability of the final formula is checked through lab testing.
Alpha-arbutin: morning or night?
None of the sources cited sets a time of application.
Is alpha-arbutin safe, and does it have side effects?
Can you use alpha-arbutin during pregnancy?
The sources cited do not address pregnancy. As with any targeted skincare product, a healthcare professional's advice remains the rule.
Can you manufacture an alpha-arbutin serum for my brand?
Yes. Our ISO 22716 certified lab offers 2 alpha-arbutin catalog formulas (dark spot serum and cream) that you can customize, or a custom formula. Samples are free.
Sources
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 2, 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng, entry ALPHA-ARBUTIN (CAS 84380-01-8, EC 617-561-8). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
- Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996 of 3 April 2024 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 (vitamin A, alpha-arbutin, arbutin and other substances) : Annex III, entries 375 (kojic acid), 377 (alpha-arbutin) and 378 (arbutin). eur-lex.europa.eu
- Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). Opinion on the safety of alpha-arbutin and beta-arbutin in cosmetic products, SCCS/1642/22, final version of 31 January 2023. health.ec.europa.eu
- Sugimoto K, Nishimura T, Nomura K, Sugimoto K, Kuriki T. Inhibitory effects of alpha-arbutin on melanin synthesis in cultured human melanoma cells and a three-dimensional human skin model. Biol Pharm Bull. 2004;27(4):510-514. doi:10.1248/bpb.27.510Ezaki Glico (alpha-arbutin manufacturer)
- Sugimoto K, Nishimura T, Nomura K, Sugimoto K, Kuriki T. Syntheses of arbutin-alpha-glycosides and a comparison of their inhibitory effects with those of alpha-arbutin and arbutin on human tyrosinase. Chem Pharm Bull (Tokyo). 2003;51(7):798-801. doi:10.1248/cpb.51.798Ezaki Glico (alpha-arbutin manufacturer)
- Funayama M, Arakawa H, Yamamoto R, et al. Effects of alpha- and beta-arbutin on activity of tyrosinases from mushroom and mouse melanoma. Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 1995;59(1):143-144. doi:10.1271/bbb.59.143Kurabo Industries
- Khan HMS, Tanveer N, Arshad T, et al. Encapsulation of alpha arbutin, a depigmenting agent, in nanosized ethosomes: in vitro and in vivo human studies. Heliyon. 2023;9(9):e19326. doi:10.1016/j.heliyon.2023.e19326
- Saeedi M, Khezri K, Seyed Zakaryaei A, Mohammadamini H. A comprehensive review of the therapeutic potential of α-arbutin. Phytother Res. 2021;35(8):4136-4154. doi:10.1002/ptr.7076
- Desmedt B, Courselle P, De Beer JO, et al. Overview of skin whitening agents with an insight into the illegal cosmetic market in Europe. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2016;30(6):943-950. doi:10.1111/jdv.13595
Tell us about your project
A product specialist reviews your request and gets back to you on the channel you prefer.
No obligation. Your information stays confidential and is used only to prepare your quote.