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Star anise powder is the dried, ground fruit of Illicium verum, which CosIng classifies as an exfoliant1. Its oil contains about 89.5% trans-anethole5, a fragrance allergen to declare2. The fruit can be confused with that of Japanese star anise, which is neurotoxic67. No cosmetic trial on the powder was retained.
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Data from the European Commission's CosIng database1, consolidated Regulation (EC) No 1223/20092 and Regulation (EU) 2023/15453. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Trans-anethole makes up 89.5% of the oil, ahead of 2-(1-cyclopentenyl)-furan (0.9%) and cis-anethole (0.7%). The authors credit it with most of the antifungal activity observed on plant fungi, a result unrelated to cosmetics5.
The review reports antibacterial, antifungal and antioxidant activities for the extracts and the oil, and stresses the current consensus on the safety of trans-anethole, the main compound of the oil used in cosmetics. It presents no clinical trial on the powder4.
The compounds identified include volatiles, seco-prezizaane sesquiterpenes, phenylpropanoids, lignans and flavonoids. Crude extracts show antimicrobial and antioxidant activities in vitro6.
The fruit of Illicium verum is sometimes contaminated with that of Japanese star anise (I. anisatum) or other toxic Illicium species, which contain neurotoxic sesquiterpenes6.
The signal of anisatin, the neurotoxin of Japanese star anise, is more than 1,000 times higher than in Chinese star anise. Adulteration down to 1% (by mass) is still measurable. None of the 8 commercial infusions analyzed contained a significant amount7.
The anisatin signal is about 250 times higher in Japanese star anise than in Chinese star anise, with the same yes/no result as the DART method in a few seconds8.
Lip irritation persisting for 6 years disappears when the flavored toothpaste is stopped; the patch test is positive to anethole, the toothpaste flavor9.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Evidence is flagged by level: clinical trial, review or laboratory.
No formula in our white label catalog features star anise yet. Our formulation lab can add it to a custom formula or to a catalog formula. Its common uses:
Scrubs with plant powders, to be dosed carefully on sensitive skin.
Dry scrubs and soaps with plant powders, where CosIng recognizes an exfoliating function for this powder.
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
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