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The INCI AMYRIS BALSAMIFERA BARK OIL designates amyris, a tree of the Rutaceae family1, not a sandalwood, which belongs to the genus Santalum. Its oil is dominated by valerianol, elemol and eudesmol isomers, not by the santalols of true sandalwood4. It is not named in Annex III2, unlike Santalum album oil3.
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1 and from consolidated Regulation (EC) 1223/20092. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Only one oil contains both the α- and β-santalols of Santalum album. In three samples, valerianol, elemol, eudesmol isomers and caryophyllene dominate: this is the signature of amyris. Two others are synthetic blends. The label was correct for only three products out of six4.
No oil analyzed meets the 90% santalol standard, and only about half meet recent ISO standards. Most Santalum album oils contain 50 to 70% santalols. The authors propose at least 43% α-santalol and 18% β-santalol5.
Sandalwood essential oils are among the botanical ingredients at risk of adulteration, most often by substitution or dilution for financial reasons6. Requiring a batch analysis is essential.
At 827 µg of amyris oil per cm² of paper, 80% then 55% of A. americanum nymphs are repelled after 2 h then 4 h. The study says nothing about use or tolerance on skin7. We found no cosmetic skin trial with amyris oil.
Sandalwood oil gives 1.8% positive tests among 10,930 people tested from 2010 to 20198, and 1.4% in the 2010 to 2014 analysis9. These results concern Santalum album: they do not carry over to amyris, whose tolerance is not documented. A specialist review details the allergens of sandalwood oil10.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Evidence is flagged by level: clinical trial, review or laboratory. Very few studies exist on West Indian sandalwood: this page says so.
No formula in our white label catalog features amyris oil yet. Our formulation lab can add it to a custom formula or to a catalog formula. Its common uses:
Rare in facial care: the oil is mostly a woody fragrance ingredient, and its skin tolerance is not documented.
Massage oils, soaps, care candles and body creams with a soft woody note, often sold as an economical "sandalwood".
Scented hair oils and leave-in care; we found no published study on hair.
Four oils with woody notes, only one of which is a true sandalwood. Their chemistry differs, and so does their labeling status.
| West Indian sandalwood (amyris) | True sandalwood (Santalum album) | Rosewood | Copaiba | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dominant constituents | Valerianol, elemol, eudesmol isomers, caryophyllene4 | α- and β-santalols: 50 to 70% of commercial oils5 | Linalool (93.6% in one oil studied)11 | β-caryophyllene (19.7 to 57.5% depending on the species)12 |
| Annex III | Oil not named2 | Oil named (line 367); santalol named (line 341)3 | Oil not named; linalool named (line 84)2 | Oil not named; beta-caryophyllene named (line 332)3 |
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
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