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Chamomile (Chamomilla recutita)

German chamomile (Chamomilla recutita), an Asteraceae, provides flower extracts declared in cosmetics as skin-conditioning agents12. The CIR panel judges them safe if the formula is not sensitizing3, but contact allergy remains possible in people sensitized to Asteraceae45. Clinical trials on the extract itself are rare14.

Dried chamomile flowers in macro view on a sage green ceramic surface

Chamomile at a glance

Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database12, safety according to the CIR expert panel3. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.

INCI name
CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA FLOWER/LEAF EXTRACTAlso exists as flower extract, oil and floral water12
Other names
German chamomile, wild chamomileUS INCI name: CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA (MATRICARIA) FLOWER/LEAF EXTRACT1
CAS number
84082-60-0
EC number
282-006-5
Botanical origin
Chamomilla recutita (L.), AsteraceaeFlower and leaf extract for this CosIng entry1. Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) is a different plant12
Compounds of interest
Terpenoids and flavonoidsIncluding α-bisabolol, isolated from German chamomile812
CosIng function
Skin conditioning, fragranceFunctions of the flower extract2. The flower/leaf entry lists the function "Antimicrobial"1
Standardization
Varies by extractFive preparations analyzed in the lab differ widely in composition11: the titer is set in the raw material specification
EU status
No restrictionNot listed in the annexes of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 in CosIng12
Allergen to declare
Not listedNo annex indicated in CosIng for the extract. An added fragrance or essential oil may itself contain allergens to declare
Safety
Judged safe if non-sensitizing2018 CIR panel: safe in current uses, formulated to be non-sensitizing3

What the research says

Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.

Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory

SkinSkincare

A chamomile compound reduces free radicals in culture

Laboratory
α-bisabolol, a chamomile componentCultured human fibroblastsHydrogen peroxide

At several concentrations, α-bisabolol limits the production of free radicals induced by hydrogen peroxide in fibroblasts. A cell culture result on an isolated molecule: it predicts neither the effect of the extract nor that of a cream9.

Lighter pigmented skin with α-bisabolol

Clinical trial
α-bisabolol cream8 weeks28 womenVersus control cream, applied on the back

Significant lightening of pigmented skin in most participants. The trial covers the isolated molecule, not a chamomile extract10.

Extracts with widely varying composition

Laboratory
5 preparations (whole plant, flower, root)Aqueous and hydroethanolicLC-MS/MS analysis

Composition varies widely from one preparation to another, and their effects on cultured human T cells differ. The extraction method matters11.

Clinical evidence still to be strengthened

Review
2015 reviewCreams with plant extractsIn vivo antioxidant studies

Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is among more than twenty botanicals tested in cream. The authors conclude that evidence-based studies are still needed for anti-aging effects14.

Safety and allergyReviews and cases

Judged safe by the CIR panel

Expert assessment
2018 CIR panelChamomilla recutita-derived ingredients

Safe in current uses and concentrations, provided they are formulated to be non-sensitizing. The panel also asks that impurities in botanical materials be limited through good manufacturing practices3.

Contact allergy: rare, but documented

Review
2002 reviewAsteraceae (Compositae)

At least 15 species of the family, including German and Roman chamomile and calendula, have been suspected of sensitizing. For German chamomile, widely used, sensitization remains rare; sesquiterpene lactones are the main allergens4.

People already sensitized react

Case series
12 people sensitized to chamomileTests with preparations

8 of 12 people reacted to preparations containing chamomile (herbal tea, creams, balms, oil). The authors advise people allergic to this family against topical use of Asteraceae-based products5.

A flower compound that degrades into a reactive molecule

Laboratory
In vitro assay-guided fractionationKeratinoSens and LLNA

Tonghaosu, a polyacetylene from the flower, is unstable: as it ages, it forms a reactive compound, potentially sensitizing in the LLNA test. Extract aging is therefore a control point6.

A case of contact urticaria with a wet wipe

Clinical case
2022 case report

Contact urticaria attributed to the chamomile in a wet wipe is described. An isolated case, which is a reminder that a reaction remains possible7.

Two plants, and frequent substitutions

Review
2010 and 2011 reviews

German chamomile (Chamomilla recutita) and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) are two distinct plants12. Market material is often adulterated or replaced by related species13: botanical identification is part of the specification.

This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Chamomile is also used in herbal medicine: only the cosmetic aspects are covered here. Clinical trials rarely concern the extract itself, which is stated each time.

Which products use chamomile?

Our white label catalog includes 18 formulas with chamomile: the key active in 3 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).

6Face

Key active in the micellar water and the chamomile calendula lotion, also found in toners, a cleanser and a night mask.

10Body

Key active in the intimate wash; also found in shower gels, shower oils, a scrub and intimate care.

2Raw materials and more

In our formulas, it is most often paired with

Vitamin E 8Allantoin 4Calendula 4Panthenol 4

Chamomile, calendula, centella asiatica or aloe vera?

Four plant extracts often combined in comfort care. They do not exclude each other.

CamomilleCalendulaCentella asiaticaAloe vera
Botanical familyAsteraceae1AsteraceaeApiaceaeAsphodelaceae
Main roleSkin conditioning (flower extract)2Skin conditioning (flower extract)Soothing, hydration, comfortHydration and comfort
Point to watch in a formulaCaution for people sensitized to Asteraceae45Same family, same cautionTriterpene titer varies by extractAloe and anthraquinone content to be controlled
EU regulationNo restriction1No restrictionNo restrictionNo restriction

Frequently asked questions about chamomile

What is chamomile?
It is a plant of the Asteraceae family, of which German chamomile (Chamomilla recutita) is the most used in cosmetics12. The flower extract is the main form used, declared as CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA FLOWER EXTRACT or FLOWER/LEAF EXTRACT depending on the part of the plant12.
What are the benefits of chamomile for skin?
Cosmetic evidence is limited. In the lab, α-bisabolol, one of its compounds, limits free radicals in fibroblasts9, and an α-bisabolol cream lightened the pigmented skin of 28 women in 8 weeks10. These studies cover an isolated molecule, not the extract, and a review points out that clinical studies are still needed14.
What percentage of chamomile should you use?
The studies cited give no usable extract concentration: it depends on the preparation, whose composition varies widely11. The dose is set with the formulator, based on the raw material specification.
What should you pair chamomile with?
In our formulas, it is most often paired with vitamin E, calendula, allantoin and panthenol. Chamomile and calendula belong to the same botanical family and appear together in the lotion and the intimate wash. The stability of the final formula is checked through lab testing.
Are there any risks with chamomile?
The CIR panel judges it safe in current uses, provided the formula is not sensitizing3. Contact allergy remains possible in people already sensitized to Asteraceae: 8 of 12 people reacted to chamomile preparations5, and a case of contact urticaria with a wet wipe has been reported7.
Can you use chamomile during pregnancy?
This page describes the cosmetic use of a flower extract, not herbal tea. For a skincare product, as for any product during pregnancy, a healthcare professional's advice remains the rule.
Can you manufacture an intimate wash or a chamomile lotion for my brand?
Yes. Our ISO 22716 certified lab offers 18 chamomile formulas (intimate washes, lotions, micellar water, masks, body care) that you can customize, or a custom formula. Samples are free.

Sources

Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.

  1. European Commission. CosIng, entry CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA FLOWER/LEAF EXTRACT (CAS 84082-60-0, EC 282-006-5). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
  2. European Commission. CosIng, entry CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA FLOWER EXTRACT (CAS 84082-60-0, EC 282-006-5). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
  3. Johnson W, Boyer I, Bergfeld WF, et al. Amended Safety Assessment of Chamomilla recutita-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics Int J Toxicol. 2018;37(3 suppl):51S-79S. doi:10.1177/1091581818801814
  4. Paulsen E. Contact sensitization from Compositae-containing herbal remedies and cosmetics Contact Dermatitis. 2002;47(4):189-198. doi:10.1034/j.1600-0536.2002.470401.x
  5. Paulsen E, Christensen LP, Andersen KE. Cosmetics and herbal remedies with Compositae plant extracts - are they tolerated by Compositae-allergic patients? Contact Dermatitis. 2008;58(1):15-23. doi:10.1111/j.1600-0536.2007.01250.x
  6. Avonto C, Rua D, Lasonkar PB, et al. Identification of a compound isolated from German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) with dermal sensitization potential Toxicol Appl Pharmacol. 2017;318:16-22. doi:10.1016/j.taap.2017.01.009
  7. Navarro-Triviño FJ, Ayén-Rodríguez Á, Ruiz-Villaverde R. Contact urticaria caused by chamomile in a wet wipe Contact Dermatitis. 2022;86(6):548-549. doi:10.1111/cod.14067
  8. Russell K, Jacob SE. Bisabolol Dermatitis. 2010;21(1):57-58. PMID 20137740
  9. Mamalis A, Nguyen DH, Brody N, Jagdeo J. The active natural anti-oxidant properties of chamomile, milk thistle, and halophilic bacterial components in human skin in vitro J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(7):780-784. PMID 23884490
  10. Lee J, Jun H, Jung E, Ha J, Park D. Whitening effect of alpha-bisabolol in Asian women subjects Int J Cosmet Sci. 2010;32(4):299-303. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00560.x
  11. Lairikyengbam D, Wetterauer B, Schmiech M, et al. Comparative analysis of whole plant, flower and root extracts of Chamomilla recutita L. and characteristic pure compounds reveals differential effects on human T cells Front Immunol. 2024;15:1388962. doi:10.3389/fimmu.2024.1388962
  12. Srivastava JK, Shankar E, Gupta S. Chamomile: a herbal medicine of the past with bright future Mol Med Rep. 2010;3(6):895-901. doi:10.3892/mmr.2010.377
  13. Singh O, Khanam Z, Misra N, Srivastava MK. Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla L.): an overview Pharmacogn Rev. 2011;5(9):82-95. doi:10.4103/0973-7847.79103
  14. Jadoon S, Karim S, Bin Asad MH, et al. Anti-aging potential of phytoextract loaded-pharmaceutical creams for human skin cell longetivity Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2015;2015:709628. doi:10.1155/2015/709628
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