Wrinkles around the eyes and lips
ReviewThe extract or asiaticoside improves periorbital and lip wrinkles, and skin hydration increases markedly. The authors stress the lack of extract standardization and the absence of long-term safety data3.
Centella asiatica (cica, gotu kola)
Centella asiatica, or cica, is a plant whose extract contains triterpenes such as asiaticoside and madecassoside8. In cosmetics, a review of 5 double-blind trials (172 women) reports fewer wrinkles around the eyes and lips and clearly higher hydration3. Extracts are not standardized, which limits these results3.
Centella asiatica at a glance
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1, safety according to the CIR expert panel2. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
- INCI name
- CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACTAlso exists by plant part (leaf, root, leaf and stem) and as cell culture1
- Other names
- Cica, gotu kola, hydrocotyleCentella asiatica (L.) Urb.
- CAS number
- 84696-21-9
- EC number
- 283-640-5
- Botanical origin
- Centella asiatica (L.) Urb., ApiaceaeCosIng describes the extract of the whole plant1
- Active markers
- Asiaticoside, madecassosidePentacyclic triterpenes, with asiatic and madecassic acids8
- CosIng function
- Soothing, smoothing, tonic, cleansing, skin conditioning"Soothing", "Smoothing", "Tonic", "Cleansing" and "Skin conditioning" in the European nomenclature1
- Standardization
- Varies by extractThe lack of standardization limits the comparison of studies3: the triterpene content is set in the raw material specification
- EU status
- No restrictionNot listed in the annexes of Regulation (EC) 1223/20091
- Allergen to declare
- No
- Safety
- Judged safe in cosmetics2023 CIR panel: safe in current uses, if the formula is non-sensitizing2
What the research says
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory
Facial skinSkincare
24-hour hydration
Clinical trialHydration increases by 59% after 1 hour and by 29% after 24 hours compared with baseline and the untreated site, and water loss is lower at 24 hours. The effect of centella itself is not isolated: the fluid also contains hyaluronic acid and glycerin4.
Sensitive skin: comfort and redness
Observational studyThe sensitivity score (SS-10) drops by 66% at 2 weeks and by 76% at 4 weeks; irritation, tightness, itching and redness decrease. Combination of three actives: the effect of centella alone is not isolated5.
Collagen: laboratory results
LaboratoryAsiaticoside and asiatic and madecassic acids stimulate type I collagen synthesis6. At 30 µg/ml, asiaticoside increases the expression of 54 genes for proliferation and extracellular matrix, including collagens I and III7. These cell culture results do not predict the effect of a cream.
Reviews and safetySyntheses
A triterpene-rich extract
ReviewThe reviews identify asiaticoside, madecassoside and their acids as the active compounds8. They credit the plant with cosmetic roles in hydration, anti-aging care and collagen synthesis9.
Extracts that need standardizing
ReviewThe lack of extract standardization prevents the results from being generalized, and long-term safety remains to be established3.
Nine ingredients assessed by the CIR panel
Expert assessmentThe extract, the leaf, root and flower-leaf-stem extracts, the leaf water and the cell cultures are judged safe in current uses and concentrations, provided they are formulated to be non-sensitizing2.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Centella asiatica is also studied in traditional medicine and for skin damage: only cosmetic results (hydration, comfort, wrinkles) are included here. Several trials test combinations of actives, which is stated each time.
Which products use Centella asiatica?
Our white label catalog includes 23 formulas with centella asiatica: the key active in 7 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
14Face
Key active in the cream, the cleansing gel and the face scrub, also found in eye care, masks, toners and serums.
9Body
Key active in the after-shave lotion and the intimate foam, also found in mom care and an after-sun gel.
Centella asiatica, aloe vera, panthenol or niacinamide?
Four actives often chosen for skin comfort and the skin barrier. They do not exclude each other.
| Centella asiatica | Aloe vera | Panthenol | Niacinamide | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main role | Soothing, hydration, comfort1 | Hydration and comfort | Hydration, barrier, hair | Barrier, skin tone, shine |
| Origin | Plant, extract standardized in triterpenes | Plant, leaf gel | Synthetic, provitamin B5 | Synthetic, vitamin B3 |
| Formulation point | Triterpene content varies by extract3 | Aloe and anthraquinone content to control | Liquid or powder depending on the form | Easy to formulate in the water phase |
| EU regulation | No restriction1 | No restriction | No restriction | No restriction |
Frequently asked questions about Centella asiatica
What is centella asiatica?
Are cica and centella asiatica the same thing?
In skincare, "cica" refers to centella asiatica. It is not an INCI name: on the label, the ingredient appears as CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT or under the name of one of its parts (leaf, root)1.
What are the benefits of centella asiatica for skin?
What percentage of centella asiatica should you use?
The studies cited give no usable concentration: it depends on the extract and its triterpene content3. The dose is set with the formulator, based on the raw material specification.
What should you pair centella asiatica with?
Is centella asiatica safe?
Can you manufacture a centella asiatica cream for my brand?
Yes. Our ISO 22716 certified lab offers 23 centella asiatica formulas (creams, cleansing gels, scrubs, balms, men's and intimate care) that you can customize, or a custom formula. Samples are free.
Sources
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 2, 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng, entry CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT (CAS 84696-21-9, EC 283-640-5). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
- Johnson W Jr, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Safety Assessment of Centella asiatica-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2023;42(1 suppl):5S-22S. doi:10.1177/10915818231158272
- Kongkaew C, Meesomperm P, Scholfield CN, et al. Efficacy and Safety of Centella Asiatica (L.) Urb. on Wrinkles: A Systematic Review of Published Data and Network Meta-Analysis. J Cosmet Sci. 2020;71(6):439-454. PMID 33413787
- Milani M, Sparavigna A. The 24-hour skin hydration and barrier function effects of a hyaluronic 1%, glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica stem cells extract moisturizing fluid: an intra-subject, randomized, assessor-blinded study. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2017;10:311-315. doi:10.2147/CCID.S144180Difa Cooper (manufacturer of the product tested)
- Su Z, Zheng Y, Yi J, et al. The Effectiveness and Safety of a Skin Care Product With Centella asiatica Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, and Panthenol in Subjects With Sensitive Skin: A Prospective, Observational Study. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025;24(7):e70324. doi:10.1111/jocd.70324
- Bonte F, Dumas M, Chaudagne C, et al. Influence of asiatic acid, madecassic acid, and asiaticoside on human collagen I synthesis. Planta Med. 1994;60(2):133-135. doi:10.1055/s-2006-959434LVMH Recherche
- Lu L, Ying K, Wei S, et al. Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts. Int J Dermatol. 2004;43(11):801-807. doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2004.02047.x
- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awiżeń P, Studzińska-Sroka E, et al. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2013;30(1):46-49. doi:10.5114/pdia.2013.33378
- Bandopadhyay S, Mandal S, Ghorai M, et al. Therapeutic properties and pharmacological activities of asiaticoside and madecassoside: A review. J Cell Mol Med. 2023;27(5):593-608. doi:10.1111/jcmm.17635
Tell us about your project
A product specialist reviews your request and gets back to you on the channel you prefer.
No obligation. Your information stays confidential and is used only to prepare your quote.