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Salicylic acid (INCI SALICYLIC ACID), often called BHA, promotes surface desquamation5. Published cosmetic trials describe it for reducing sebum and improving skin texture78. In Europe it is restricted by Annex III of Regulation (EC) 1223/2009: 0.5 to 3% depending on the product type2.
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1 and Regulation (EC) 1223/20092, safety according to the CIR expert panel4. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
In volunteers with oily or combination, blemish-prone skin, sebum fell by 23.65%, hydration rose by 40.5% and water loss dropped by 49.26%. 5% of participants reported mild, temporary itching. The concentration is not given in the abstract7.
Significant improvement in the barrier (water loss), redness, hydration and skin texture, with no adverse effect. The formula also contains ceramides: the effect of salicylic acid alone is not isolated8.
Treated sites had less stratum corneum, with no change in the living epidermis. The authors suggest that salicylic acid promotes desquamation by dissolving the cement between cells5.
Significant increase in collagen density and elasticity, lower melanin index and less water loss. 98% of participants were satisfied or very satisfied. The trial combined this care with an in-office 30% peel, which exceeds the limits for cosmetic products in Europe2: only the 2% care can be transposed9.
Both shampoos strongly reduced dandruff. The combination seems slightly more effective than zinc pyrithione on severity and flake area. The effect of salicylic acid alone is not isolated10.
Salicylic acid is one of the 23 ingredients recommended by the panel, notably for oily skin. The panel also keeps it for a medical use that this page does not cover11.
The review describes salicylic acid as a "desmolytic" agent: it breaks the junctions between stratum corneum cells6. This explains its role as a surface exfoliant in cosmetic care12.
As early as 2000, the CIR panel provisionally concluded that salicylic acid is safe when the formula avoids irritation and increased sun sensitivity. The FDA recommends sun protection with BHA products13. The 2025 update confirms safety in current uses and concentrations if the formula is non-irritating and non-sensitizing4.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. Salicylic acid is mostly studied for medical uses: we only keep the cosmetic results here (sebum, texture, hydration, exfoliation). Several of the clinical trials cited were run by cosmetics companies; this is indicated in the sources.
The cited studies that give the concentration use 2%, in a daily care product9 as in a shampoo10. The final concentration is set by European regulation: 3% for rinse-off hair products, 2% for other products and 0.5% for body lotions, eye shadows, mascaras, eyeliners, lipsticks and roll-on deodorants2.
Our white label catalog includes 10 formulas with salicylic acid: the key active in 6 of them, a supporting ingredient in the others. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
Key active in serums, cleansers, toners and care for blemish-prone skin, paired with niacinamide or AHAs in other formulas.
Supporting active in one washing product of the catalog, within regulatory limits.
In our formulas, it is most often paired with
Panthenol 7Niacinamide 6Glycolic acid 4Aloe vera 4Centella asiatica 4Four actives often compared for blemish-prone skin and skin texture. They do not exclude each other and are combined in several of our formulas.
| Salicylic acid | Glycolic acid | Lactic acid | Niacinamide | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Family | BHA (common name)13 | AHA14 | AHA14 | Vitamin B3, not an acid |
| Main role | Sebum, texture, surface exfoliation78 | Surface exfoliation14 | Surface exfoliation14 | Barrier, skin tone, shine: see the niacinamide page |
| EU regulation | Restricted: 0.5 to 3% depending on the product2 | No restriction in the annexes | No restriction in the annexes | No restriction |
| Sun | Sun protection recommended with BHAs13 | Increased UV sensitivity during use14 | Sun protection recommended with AHAs14 | Not photosensitizing |
| Watch point | Banned in preparations for children under 32 | Depends on concentration and pH14 | Depends on concentration and pH14 | See the niacinamide page |
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 2, 2026.
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