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Zinc PCA is the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), a natural component of the stratum corneum5. It has long been used in cosmetics for its astringent and antimicrobial properties3. Published evidence comes from the laboratory: no cosmetic sebum trial was retained. Limit: 1% as zinc2.
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1 and Regulation (EC) 1223/20092. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
PCA measured in the stratum corneum is 1.64 mmol/g of protein in non-carriers, 0.50 in carriers of one mutation and 0.18 in homozygotes5. The natural moisturizing factor is a mixture of small water-soluble molecules derived from filaggrin6. This says nothing about the effect of zinc PCA applied to skin.
Zinc PCA reduces AP-1 activation and the production of metalloproteinase-1, an enzyme that degrades collagen. It also increases the vitamin C transporter SVCT2 and type I collagen synthesis. A cell culture result, produced by an industry player: it does not predict the effect of a cream3.
Zinc from a zinc PCA emulsion is absorbed at 1.60% of the applied dose, against 0.36% for a zinc oxide ointment and 0.34% for a zinc sulfate ointment. All formulas increase epidermal zinc. The salt and the formula are not separated in this comparison4.
We found no controlled cosmetic trial of zinc PCA on sebum or skin shine. The use of zinc PCA for oily skin therefore rests on tradition and indirect data, not on published evidence.
The panel concludes that 27 inorganic and organometallic zinc salts are safe in current uses and concentrations, provided they are formulated to be non-irritating. The abstract does not name zinc PCA: exact coverage must be checked in the report7.
For oral hygiene products, the committee estimates intake at 10 to 35% of the upper limit for zinc, depending on age. It notes that any additional source, cosmetics included, may exceed this limit in children, without being able to set the share of cosmetics8.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. For zinc PCA, published data are scarce and mostly from the laboratory. The clinical trials found combine zinc PCA with other actives in products with a medical purpose: they fall outside the scope of this page and are not included. One cited study has an industry affiliation; this is noted in the sources.
Our white label catalog includes 1 formula with zinc PCA, always as a supporting ingredient. Every category can be customized (formula, fragrance, packaging).
In our formulas, it is most often paired with
Hyaluronic acid 1Sage extract 1Peppermint essential oil 1Niacinamide 1Panthenol 1Four actives often chosen for oily skin. They do not exclude each other and are combined in several of our formulas.
| Zinc PCA | Niacinamide | Kaolin | Salicylic acid | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Family | Zinc salt of PCA1 | Vitamin B3, see the niacinamide entry | Clay, see the kaolin entry | BHA (common name), see the entry |
| Evidence on sebum | No cosmetic trial retained | Clinical trials at 2%, see the niacinamide entry | See the kaolin entry | See the salicylic acid entry |
| EU regulation | Annex III, entry 24: 1% as zinc12 | No restriction | See the kaolin entry | Restricted depending on the product, see the entry |
| Watch point | Zinc adds to dietary intake, mainly in children8 | See the niacinamide entry | See the kaolin entry | Sun protection recommended |
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
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