Surfactant hydrolysates that can be tuned
ReviewPea protein hydrolysates are surfactants with good emulsifying and foaming power. The type of enzyme and the degree of hydrolysis make it possible to adjust these properties4.
Hydrolyzed pea protein (pea protein)
Cosmetic pea proteins are hydrolysates: CosIng defines HYDROLYZED PEA PROTEIN as the product of acid, enzymatic or other hydrolysis of pea protein1. It acts as a hair and skin conditioning agent and as an antistatic1. Published cosmetic evidence is thin; most studies concern food.
Hydrolyzed pea protein at a glance
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1. A non-hydrolyzed pea protein, common in food, is a different material: its studies do not carry over.
- INCI name
- HYDROLYZED PEA PROTEINDerivatives also exist: acylated, quaternized, silanetriol2
- Other names
- Pea protein hydrolysateHydrolyzed pea protein
- CAS number
- 222400-29-5According to CosIng1
- EC number
- Not given in CosIng
- CosIng description
- Pea protein hydrolysateObtained by acid, enzymatic or other hydrolysis: the molecular weight of the peptides varies with the method1
- Botanical origin
- Pea (Pisum sativum)Legume
- CosIng functions
- Antistatic, skin conditioning (emollient), hair conditioning"Antistatic, skin conditioning - emollient, hair conditioning, skin conditioning"1
- Appearance
- Depends on the supplierRequest the technical data sheet
- EU status
- Permitted, no annexNo annex listed in CosIng1
- Allergen to declare
- NoNot a fragrance allergen. Pea is a legume: see the safety section
- Safety
- Family judged safe under conditions of useCIR panel 2022 on plant proteins; the summary does not list pea protein: to be confirmed3
What the research says
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory
Material and formulationFormulation
A pea isolate to encapsulate a fat-soluble active
LaboratoryA pea isolate served as a microencapsulation matrix for beta-carotene, with supercritical CO₂, without organic solvent, under mild conditions4.
A hemp oil emulsion stabilized by a pea isolate
LaboratoryDroplets measured 209 nm at preparation and 207 nm after one week, with up to 98.6% encapsulation of linoleic acid. The authors aim first at food and mention a possible cosmetic use5.
Facial skinSkincare
Xyloglucan and pea protein on keratinocytes
LaboratoryThe pretreatment increased transepithelial electrical resistance, a barrier marker, and reduced the passage of Lucifer yellow through the cell layer. The specific effect of pea protein is not isolated from xyloglucan6.
Safety and allergiesToxicology
19 plant proteins and peptides assessed
Expert assessmentThe panel concludes that 18 of the 19 ingredients are safe under the conditions of use described; data are insufficient for a single protein, the sycamore maple one. The summary does not name pea protein3.
Pea and peanut: a food cross-reaction
Case seriesThese participants' peanut symptoms came from cross-reactivity with pea vicilin (Ara h 1). The authors conclude that a clinically relevant cross-reactivity between pea and peanut exists. No data on skin application7.
Pea and legumes: a risk for allergic people
Clinical studyAmong peanut-allergic people sensitized to legumes, 96% had IgE directed against Ara h 1. The authors identify a risk of pea allergy in people allergic to legumes and in some of those allergic to peanut8.
Skin exposure to food hydrolysates: a precedent
Epidemiological studyAdjusted odds ratio of 2.6 (95% confidence interval 1.2 to 5.7) for use of this soap. The result concerns wheat, not pea; it shows that a food hydrolysate can sensitize through the skin9.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. The evidence is weak: we found no peer-reviewed trial on hydrolyzed pea protein alone, on skin or on hair. The results below are formulation and laboratory studies, plus food allergy data.
Which products can use hydrolyzed pea protein?
No formula in our white label catalog features hydrolyzed pea protein yet. Our formulation lab can add it to a custom formula or to a catalog formula. Its common uses:
Face
Creams and serums: skin conditioner with an emollient effect, supporting other actives.
Body
Body lotions and creams, with the same skin conditioning function.
Hair
Conditioners, masks and leave-ins: conditioning agent and antistatic, according to CosIng functions.
Frequently asked questions about hydrolyzed pea protein
What is pea protein in cosmetics?
Is food pea protein the same as cosmetic pea protein?
Is pea protein good for hair?
We found no peer-reviewed study on pea protein and hair. Its use in conditioners or masks rests on the conditioning function recognized by CosIng1, not on a trial.
What are the benefits for skin?
No human trial was retained. In the laboratory, a product combining xyloglucan and pea protein raised a barrier marker on cultured cells, without isolating the effect of the protein6. It is a lead, not proof of efficacy.
Is there a risk for people allergic to peanuts?
Is pea protein safe?
The CIR panel judged 18 of 19 plant proteins and peptides safe under conditions of use; its summary does not say whether pea protein is one of them3. Ask the supplier for the safety file of the hydrolysate you choose.
Can you manufacture a pea protein product for my brand?
No formula in our catalog features pea protein yet, but our ISO 22716 certified laboratory can add it to a catalog formula or to a custom formula. Free samples are included.
Sources
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
- European Commission. CosIng, entry HYDROLYZED PEA PROTEIN (CAS 222400-29-5). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
- European Commission. CosIng, entry HYDROLYZED PEA PROTEIN PG-PROPYL SILANETRIOL (silanetriol derivative). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
- Burnett CL, Boyer IJ, Bergfeld WF, et al.; Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety. Safety Assessment of Plant-Derived Proteins and Peptides as Used in Cosmetics Int J Toxicol. 2022;41(2_suppl):5S-20S. doi:10.1177/10915818221100700
- De Graaf LA, Harmsen PF, Vereijken JM, Mönikes M. Requirements for non-food applications of pea proteins. A review Nahrung. 2001;45(6):408-411. doi:10.1002/1521-3803(20011001)45:6<408::aid-food408>3.0.co;2-#
- Jarzębski M, Fathordoobady F, Guo Y, et al. Pea protein for hempseed oil nanoemulsion stabilization Molecules. 2019;24(23):4288. doi:10.3390/molecules24234288
- Campolo M, Lanza M, Filippone A, et al. Evaluation of a product containing xyloglucan and pea protein on skin barrier permeability Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2020;33(4):231-236. doi:10.1159/000509372
- Wensing M, Knulst AC, Piersma S, et al. Patients with anaphylaxis to pea can have peanut allergy caused by cross-reactive IgE to vicilin (Ara h 1) J Allergy Clin Immunol. 2003;111(2):420-424. doi:10.1067/mai.2003.61
- Richard C, Jacquenet S, Sergeant P, Moneret-Vautrin DA. Cross-reactivity of a new food ingredient, dun pea, with legumes, and risk of anaphylaxis in legume allergic children Eur Ann Allergy Clin Immunol. 2015;47(4):118-125. PMID 26159477
- Fukutomi Y, Taniguchi M, Nakamura H, Akiyama K. Epidemiological link between wheat allergy and exposure to hydrolyzed wheat protein in facial soap Allergy. 2014;69(10):1405-1411. doi:10.1111/all.12481
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