Services

Torn between two services?A project manager will guide you

Catalog

Explore the full catalog1,000+ formulas ready to carry your brand

Face careFull range

Serums, creams and targeted care, formulated with your actives.

Body careFull range

Moisturizing, nourishing and shower care: cream, butter or oil.

Specialty careFull range

Sun care, lips, intimate care and oral care.

Men, baby, makeupFull range

Shaving and beard, baby and mom, makeup.

Industries

All solutions by industryFormulas and formats for your business

Our brands

Our own brands, developed and made in our laboratory.

Become a distributor of our brandsPharmacies, spas, shops and wholesalers

Laboratory

Cosmetics manufacturing room with a row of stainless-steel mixers and an operator in white workwearOur factory in Aït MelloulISO 22716 and ISO 9001, visits by appointmentDiscover the factory

Resources

Folic acid (vitamin B9)

Folic acid is the synthetic form of vitamin B9, declared in cosmetics as a skin conditioner1. The available cosmetic trials combine it with creatine, for skin firmness, and come from a single manufacturer34. It is a molecule sensitive to UV and pH67. This page does not cover oral supplementation.

Yellow-orange folic acid powder in macro view on a sage green ceramic surface, with spinach leaves

Folic acid at a glance

Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.

INCI name
FOLIC ACID
Other names
Vitamin B9Acidum folicum (European Pharmacopoeia), folic acid (INN)1
CAS number
59-30-3
EC number
200-419-0
Formula
C₁₉H₁₉N₇O₆Molar mass 441.40 g/mol
CosIng functions
Skin conditioning"Skin conditioning" in the European nomenclature1
Appearance
Yellow to orange crystalline powderPoorly soluble in water; sensitive to light69
EU status
No restrictionAbsent from Annexes II to VI of Regulation (EC) 1223/20092
Allergen to declare
NoAbsent from the fragrance allergen list of Regulation (EU) 2023/1545
Safety
No CIR or SCCS opinion foundNo cosmetic safety committee opinion specific to folic acid was found; stability points are documented68

What the research says

Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.

Clinical trialReview or consensusLaboratory

Facial skinSkincare

Firmer mature skin with a folic acid and creatine formula

Clinical trial
Commercial formula, folic acid and creatineCutometer, multiphoton imagingFibroblasts in culture

Application improves the firmness of mature skin. In culture, the combination increases the expression of collagen genes, procollagen and fiber density. The abstract gives no duration, sample size or values, and the effect of folic acid alone is not separated3.

Less DNA damage, fewer wrinkles, with the same combination

Clinical trial
Folic acid and creatine formulaIn vitro and at-home studiesComparison with untreated areas

On the areas where it was applied: protection against UV-induced DNA damage, increased firmness, reduced wrinkle volume, faster epidermal renewal. No values in the abstract, and folic acid is not isolated4.

Penetration and cellular uptake of folic acid

Laboratory
2007 research letterHuman skin, cells

One study looked at the cellular uptake of folic acid and its penetration into human skin. The text has no abstract: results are to be found in the publication5.

Stability and lightFormulation

UV splits the molecule in two

Laboratory
Aqueous solutionUV irradiation, aerobic

Folic acid splits into p-aminobenzoyl-L-glutamic acid and 6-formylpterin, then into pterin-6-carboxylic acid. These products speed up the degradation of the remaining molecule6.

Much slower photolysis at high pH

Laboratory
Aqueous solutionpH 2.0 to 10.0

The rate constant falls from 5.04 × 10⁻³ min⁻¹ at pH 2.5 to 0.155 × 10⁻³ min⁻¹ at pH 10.0. The pH of the formula matters for stability7.

Degradation products produce free radicals in culture

Laboratory
Keratinocytes and skin cellsUVA

Folic acid and its photoproducts increase free radicals and cell death under UVA. The authors state that further studies are needed to know whether folic acid creams have an effect in humans8.

Five degradation factors to control

Review
2016 review

The review retains five degradation parameters: light, temperature, concentration, oxygen and pH. Packaging and the manufacturing process take them into account9.

A UV-sensitive folate at the heart of a pigmentation hypothesis

Review
2010 colloquium

The authors propose that protecting folate, which is broken down by UV and by free radicals from UVA, weighed on the evolution of dark pigmentation. This concerns the body's folate, not a product applied to skin10.

This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. For folic acid, the two cosmetic trials cited test a combination with creatine and were run by the same manufacturer: they do not isolate the effect of folic acid. The stability results are from the laboratory.

Which products can use folic acid?

No formula in our white label catalog features folic acid yet. Our formulation lab can add it to a custom formula or to a catalog formula. Its common uses:

Face

Care creams and serums for mature skin, most often combined with other actives, in opaque packaging that protects from light.

Folic acid, niacinamide, panthenol or vitamin C?

Four vitamins or vitamin derivatives often mentioned for skin. They do not exclude each other and are combined in the same routine.

Folic acidNiacinamidePanthenolVitamin C
VitaminB9B3, see the niacinamide entryProvitamin B5, see the panthenol entryC, see the vitamin C entry
Evidence on applicationTwo trials combined with creatine, from the same manufacturer34Many trials, see the niacinamide entrySee the panthenol entrySee the vitamin C entry
Stability in a formulaSensitive to UV and pH67Stable, easy to formulate in the aqueous phaseSee the panthenol entryOxidizes with air and light, see the entry
EU regulationNo restriction12No restrictionSee the panthenol entryNo restriction for ascorbic acid

Frequently asked questions about folic acid

What is folic acid?
It is the synthetic form of vitamin B9. In cosmetics, it is declared under the INCI name FOLIC ACID as a skin conditioner1. This page covers cosmetic use, not oral supplementation, for which a healthcare professional's advice is the rule.
What are the benefits for skin when applied?
Two trials from the same manufacturer combine folic acid with creatine and report firmer mature skin and reduced wrinkle volume34. Folic acid is not isolated in them, and the abstracts give no values. Evidence for topical use remains limited.
Is folic acid useful for hair?
No cosmetic study on hair or scalp was retained. This page promises no effect on hair.
What percentage of folic acid should you use?
The abstracts of the cited studies give no concentration. The dose of a product is decided with the formulator, taking into account the molecule's limited solubility and its degradation in light69.
Is folic acid stable in a formula?
No, it is its weak point. UV splits it into photoproducts6, photolysis is much faster at pH 2.5 than at pH 107, and light, heat, oxygen and concentration also play a role9. Opaque packaging and stability tests are essential.
Is folic acid safe?
It is not restricted in the EU2 and is not a fragrance allergen to declare. In the laboratory, its photoproducts generate free radicals under UVA, hence the value of a stable formula8. During pregnancy, as with any skincare product, a healthcare professional's advice remains the rule.
Can you manufacture a folic acid product for my brand?
Yes, as a custom formula: our ISO 22716 certified laboratory does not yet have a catalog formula that features it, but can include it in a custom formula with suitable packaging. Free samples are included.

Sources

Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.

  1. European Commission. CosIng, entry FOLIC ACID (CAS 59-30-3, CE 200-419-0). ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing
  2. European Parliament and Council. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, consolidated version of May 1, 2025: Annexes II to VI. eur-lex.europa.eu
  3. Fischer F, Achterberg V, März A, et al. Folic acid and creatine improve the firmness of human skin in vivo. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2011;10(1):15-23. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00543.xBeiersdorf
  4. Knott A, Koop U, Mielke H, et al. A novel treatment option for photoaged skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008;7(1):15-22. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2008.00356.xBeiersdorf
  5. Knott A, Mielke H, Koop U, et al. Folic acid: cellular uptake and penetration into human skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2007;127(10):2463-2466. doi:10.1038/sj.jid.5700871
  6. Off MK, Steindal AE, Porojnicu AC, et al. Ultraviolet photodegradation of folic acid. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2005;80(1):47-55. doi:10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2005.03.001
  7. Akhtar MJ, Khan MA, Ahmad I. Photodegradation of folic acid in aqueous solution. J Pharm Biomed Anal. 1999;19(3-4):269-275. doi:10.1016/s0731-7085(98)00038-7
  8. Juzeniene A, Grigalavicius M, Ma LW, et al. Folic acid and its photoproducts, 6-formylpterin and pterin-6-carboxylic acid, as generators of reactive oxygen species in skin cells during UVA exposure. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2016;155:116-121. doi:10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2016.01.001
  9. Gazzali AM, Lobry M, Colombeau L, et al. Stability of folic acid under several parameters. Eur J Pharm Sci. 2016;93:419-430. doi:10.1016/j.ejps.2016.08.045
  10. Jablonski NG, Chaplin G. Colloquium paper: human skin pigmentation as an adaptation to UV radiation. Proc Natl Acad Sci U S A. 2010;107 Suppl 2:8962-8968. doi:10.1073/pnas.0914628107
Carmel Cosmetics Labs product specialist with a brand founder

Tell us about your project

A product specialist reviews your request and gets back to you on the channel you prefer.

Lead EN – Demande de devis
Tell us about your project. A product specialist will get back to you shortly.
CONTACT INFORMATION
Name
PROJECT INFORMATION
Which cosmetics category interests you most?

By submitting this form, you agree to our terms of service and privacy policy.

No obligation. Your information stays confidential and is used only to prepare your quote.