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Folic acid is the synthetic form of vitamin B9, declared in cosmetics as a skin conditioner1. The available cosmetic trials combine it with creatine, for skin firmness, and come from a single manufacturer34. It is a molecule sensitive to UV and pH67. This page does not cover oral supplementation.
Entry from our cosmetic ingredient glossary. Regulatory data from the European Commission's CosIng database1. Copy the identifiers in one click for your files.
Each result shows the protocol and the level of evidence. The higher the level, the better the result carries over to a finished formula.
Application improves the firmness of mature skin. In culture, the combination increases the expression of collagen genes, procollagen and fiber density. The abstract gives no duration, sample size or values, and the effect of folic acid alone is not separated3.
On the areas where it was applied: protection against UV-induced DNA damage, increased firmness, reduced wrinkle volume, faster epidermal renewal. No values in the abstract, and folic acid is not isolated4.
One study looked at the cellular uptake of folic acid and its penetration into human skin. The text has no abstract: results are to be found in the publication5.
Folic acid splits into p-aminobenzoyl-L-glutamic acid and 6-formylpterin, then into pterin-6-carboxylic acid. These products speed up the degradation of the remaining molecule6.
The rate constant falls from 5.04 × 10⁻³ min⁻¹ at pH 2.5 to 0.155 × 10⁻³ min⁻¹ at pH 10.0. The pH of the formula matters for stability7.
Folic acid and its photoproducts increase free radicals and cell death under UVA. The authors state that further studies are needed to know whether folic acid creams have an effect in humans8.
The review retains five degradation parameters: light, temperature, concentration, oxygen and pH. Packaging and the manufacturing process take them into account9.
The authors propose that protecting folate, which is broken down by UV and by free radicals from UVA, weighed on the evolution of dark pigmentation. This concerns the body's folate, not a product applied to skin10.
This page summarizes published literature on a cosmetic ingredient. It does not describe the effect of a finished product, which depends on its formula, and it is not medical advice. For folic acid, the two cosmetic trials cited test a combination with creatine and were run by the same manufacturer: they do not isolate the effect of folic acid. The stability results are from the laboratory.
No formula in our white label catalog features folic acid yet. Our formulation lab can add it to a custom formula or to a catalog formula. Its common uses:
Care creams and serums for mature skin, most often combined with other actives, in opaque packaging that protects from light.
Four vitamins or vitamin derivatives often mentioned for skin. They do not exclude each other and are combined in the same routine.
| Folic acid | Niacinamide | Panthenol | Vitamin C | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vitamin | B9 | B3, see the niacinamide entry | Provitamin B5, see the panthenol entry | C, see the vitamin C entry |
| Evidence on application | Two trials combined with creatine, from the same manufacturer34 | Many trials, see the niacinamide entry | See the panthenol entry | See the vitamin C entry |
| Stability in a formula | Sensitive to UV and pH67 | Stable, easy to formulate in the aqueous phase | See the panthenol entry | Oxidizes with air and light, see the entry |
| EU regulation | No restriction12 | No restriction | See the panthenol entry | No restriction for ascorbic acid |
Peer-reviewed studies and official regulatory sources, checked on November 3, 2026.
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