The 500 dalton rule: size limits penetration
Review2000 review
A molecule must weigh less than 500 Da to cross the stratum corneum. This rule of thumb explains why large proteins and peptides mostly work on the surface3.
A surface humectant according to a collagen manufacturer
Review2020 reviewOral and topical routes
The authors, affiliated with a collagen manufacturer, describe a low-antigenicity hydrolysate with good hydrating properties on the stratum corneum. The antioxidant effect depends on peptide size: the smaller they are, the stronger it is7.
The positive results concern the oral route
Review2026 systematic review25 randomized trialsOral route
Hydrolyzed collagen taken by mouth improves hydration in 10 of 15 trials, elasticity in 10 of 13 and wrinkles in 9 of 10. These supplements fall outside cosmetics: these results do not transfer to a cream10.
Cases of contact urticaria with conditioners
Case reportsIsolated case with bovine collagen hydrolysateTest series: 11 hairdressers, 2,160 adults, 28 people with reactive skin
A case of contact urticaria with systemic symptoms followed the application of a bovine collagen hydrolysate conditioner8. In another series, 12 people with reactive skin reacted to protein hydrolysates, all to a quaternized derivative of hydrolyzed collagen9.