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Plant powderMoroccan heritage

Nila powder (blue nila)

The indigo plant a dye plant of hot lands.

The vat its leaves ferment and the water turns blue.

The nila a midnight-blue pigment, in stones or powder.

The ritual mixed with black soap, at the heart of the hammam.

INCI · INDIGOFERA SUFFRUTICOSA EXTRACTCreate my nila range
INCI name
INDIGOFERA SUFFRUTICOSA EXTRACT (in our formulas)
Other names
Blue nila, Moroccan nila, indigo
Family
Plant powder
Plant
Indigo plant (genus Indigofera, legume family Fabaceae)
Pigment
Indigo (indigotin), formed from the indican in the leaves
Areas
Face, body, hammam
In brief

Nila in 30 seconds

By the Carmel Cosmetics Labs R&D team · updated October 2, 2026

  • What it isa plant indigo, made from indigo plant leaves, sold as stones or powder in southern Morocco
  • INCI namedepending on species and form: INDIGOFERA SUFFRUTICOSA EXTRACT in our formulas
  • For the faceas a mask or scrub, for clean skin and a brighter-looking complexion
  • For the bodymixed with black soap or a scrub, in the hammam ritual
  • Good to knowno study shows that nila lightens skin: it is a beauty treatment, not a medical one
( A )WHAT IT IS

What is nila?

Nila, or blue nila, is a plant indigo made from the leaves of indigo plants of the genus Indigofera. The leaves contain indican, which through fermentation and then oxidation in air produces the blue indigo pigment. Sold as stones or powder in the souks of southern Morocco, it goes into masks, scrubs and black soap for the hammam ritual.

Nila, dyeing indigo or colored "nila": the difference

Nila

Plant-derived indigo, made from indigo plant leaves and ground into a fine powder. It does not dissolve in water: it disperses, then settles. This is what you find in our nila products.

Dyeing indigo

The same coloring molecule, indigotin, but intended for textiles: it is the blue of denim, now mostly made synthetically. A dyeing indigo is not a cosmetic raw material.

Colored "nila"

A powder or product whose blue comes from an added colorant. In cosmetics, an approved colorant must appear in the INCI list (CI code). A powder that turns water an even, instant blue suggests a soluble dye: it is a clue, only batch analysis is conclusive.

Midnight-blue nila powder in a ceramic bowl, raw indigo stones and hands mixing a blue mask
Nila · southern Morocco
( B )SES BIENFAITS

Nila benefits for face and body

01

For the face

As a mask, combined with a clay such as kaolin or ghassoul, it goes into treatments that absorb excess sebum and leave skin clean and soft, with a brighter-looking complexion. These effects come from the whole formula.

02

For the body

In a sugar scrub or mixed with black soap, it supports hammam exfoliation: dead skin cells are removed and skin looks smoother and more even.

03

For the brand

Its deep blue makes the formula instantly recognizable, and its name evokes the Sahara. On safety, the European SCCS opinion on the indigo plant (Indigofera tinctoria) cannot rule out a weak sensitization potential: a patch test on a small area is recommended.

How to use nila powder

  • Face

    As a mask: mixed with a clay and a liquid (rose water, for example), in a thin layer on clean skin, rinsed before it dries completely.

  • Body

    At the hammam: mixed with black soap, applied to warm, damp skin, left on for a few minutes, then rinsed before scrubbing with the kessa glove (Moroccan exfoliating mitt).

  • Scrub

    In a ready-to-use sugar or salt scrub, massaged onto damp skin then rinsed thoroughly.

( C )DANS NOS PRODUITS

Launch your nila range

We use it in masks, face and body scrubs and black soap ready to carry your brand. Choose a category to see the formulas.

( D )NOTES DE FORMULATEUR

How we formulate it

What our formulators consider when nila goes into your product.

  1. 01A powder that tints

    Indigo pigment is strong: we dose nila for an attractive product color while limiting blue marks on skin and linen when rinsing.

  2. 02A declared color

    If a more intense shade is wanted, it can be topped up with an approved cosmetic colorant, always declared in the INCI list.

  3. 03The right INCI name

    It depends on the species and form (leaf powder or extract): we use the one on the supplier's technical data sheet, checked on receipt.

  4. 04Careful claims

    No "whitening" or "lightening": we write your product sheets with defensible cosmetic claims.

Did you know?

The blue of the Sahara

  1. Blue men

    The nomads of the Sahara, from the Tuareg to the tribes of the Guelmim region, owe this nickname to the indigo of their veils and clothing, which rubs off on the skin.

  2. Bride

    In southern Morocco, nila is part of the beauty rituals passed down from mother to daughter, especially at the hammam before a wedding.

  3. Henna

    In plant-based hair color, indigo is combined with henna to get brown to black shades.

Nila: your questions

A nila project?Our product specialist answers you on WhatsApp.Message us on WhatsApp

What is nila powder?

It is a plant indigo, made from the leaves of the indigo plant (genus Indigofera). Fermented and then oxidized in air, they produce a midnight-blue pigment, sold as stones or powder in southern Morocco. It is used in masks, scrubs and at the hammam.

What are the benefits of nila?

Added to a clay mask or a scrub, it goes into treatments that leave skin clean and soft, with a brighter-looking complexion. These effects come from the whole formula, clay and exfoliation included. Its own strengths are its color and its roots in the Saharan ritual.

How do you use nila on the face?

Mix it with a clay and a little rose water, apply a thin layer to clean skin and rinse before it dries completely. Do a patch test on a small area first: the European SCCS opinion cannot rule out a weak sensitization potential for the indigo plant.

Does nila lighten the skin?

No study shows that nila lightens or whitens the skin. It is used in beauty products that even out the look of the complexion through exfoliation and clay. Be wary of "nila" products that promise fast lightening.

How can you spot real nila?

Indigo does not dissolve in water: a pinch of real nila disperses, then settles. A powder that instantly turns all the water an even blue suggests an added soluble dye. This test is only a clue: only the technical data sheet and batch analysis are conclusive.

Are nila and indigo the same thing?

Nila is an indigo: its pigment, indigotin, is the same molecule as in indigo dye. The difference lies in use and quality: cosmetic nila is a tested plant powder, while dyeing indigo is meant for textiles and often synthetic.

Can I create a nila range with Carmel Cosmetics Labs?

Yes. We use it in face masks, face and body scrubs and black soap as white label, or in an exclusive private label formula, made in our factory in Morocco.

Sources

  1. European Commission, SCCS/1615/20, final opinion on the hair dye Indigofera tinctoria (C170) (2020)
  2. European Commission, CosIng database: INDIGOFERA TINCTORIA LEAF POWDER
  3. European Commission, CosIng database: INDIGOFERA SUFFRUTICOSA LEAF/STEM EXTRACT
  4. Chajii O. et al., Ethnobotanical, geographical, phytochemical and dyeing study of the main tinctorial plants in Morocco, Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy 36 (2023)

Your nila range, made in Morocco

Send us your brief: we formulate and manufacture in our ISO 22716 factory in Aït Melloul. Free consultation and formula selection, with no commitment.